Hey guys I am looking to get into an evo this summer and I would really like to try and save some money by buying a wrecked and/or salvage evo. Has anyone purchased their vehicle from copart? I have been looking on the website and there are a few cars which I am/have been interested in. I do not have a dealer's license so I would have to find someone to help me out in obtaining the vehicle, but what I really am looking for is someone who has bought a car through them and can vouch for whether or not they are legit.
thanks

 

Buying an Evo like that is a higher hit/miss chance that you should be willing to afford. Let's say you buy a mildly hit car for about 5000$. Then you fix it all up and paint it, brush it, get it in shape, you're at about 10000$. Then you find out that compression in the engine is bad, transfer case is whining and the gearbox is missing 4th gear... You'll be paying more than you would have if you looked for a while in the for sale section for a clean car that you can see, check out and test drive.

Sure, there's a chance you get a perfectly good car for a low price, but... The fact remains you have no idea about the car at all.

And yes, people have previously imported cars to Slovenia from copart and repaired them here. Noone wants to buy those cars cause they're mostly a mess. If you'd go for a car from there, go for a flood damaged car that hase the "Runs and drives" verification.

Otherwise - yes, they're legit and the cars are real.

 

^ That. There are cars going to 12-18k right now that are in great working order in our for sale forum.

 

you have no history record on the car u are buying
and for the amount of money and effort spent on building the car
i think u should think twice

 

thanks a lot for all your input . I know i must be very cautious when buying one, but i figure it like this. I wont buy anything with rear end or side damage since those repairs generally cost a lot more than front repairs for obvious reasons such as i cant bolt on a rear quarter as i could with a front fender. I also wont buy anything that seems to have been hit too hard in the front, for fear that the rails are tweaked/bent beyond fixing. As far as the engine goes, if I could pick the car up for say 5-6k, and the engine was toast, i could just rebuild it. Now there would always be that "if" the tranny was screwed up or the t-case is bad but i think that's all part of the risk involved when buying one. What im mainly getting at is if I dont rush into any of them, and make sure at least the outside is in ok condition, or at least the engine/trans/t-case checks out, then most of my money can initially be spent on the worse of the two. I definitely would not want to buy something that was known to be be not running, and was hit so hard that the headlights ended up in the driver's seat.

I was thinking that i would prefer something that i knew had a blown motor but clean body so I could just do a built one, and in the end, be at like 12-15k invested for an evo with a 500whp capable set-up. I understand in the end its still a salvage title but that does not bother me at all.

i have seen a few cars on here in the classifieds that were previously on copart's website. They all looked to be in good shape and had been checked out by those who were selling them, so i think that finding an "OK " condition car is doable.

thanks a lot for your comments

 

i think your Mormon *** should just buy this and call it a day

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/1199035258.html

 

dont buy one wrecked or salvage man... just find one on here with high miles going for like 13 or so man...

 

fractur3 go to hell.

I understand it would be easier to buy a high mileage one, but why not try to get one that needs a new motor, and go from there. be in the whole car 13k with a fresh engine,

 

man your really not thinking here . it would end up being cheaper for you to buy a evo with high milage for 13k then spend 3500 for a built motor then to take a risk of buying a car you cant see and inspect in person that the ad for could be completely false. At least with a high milage evo you can go and inspect it first then drive it etc. once you buy one of those wreck tin cans car deal is done and its over.

 

when buying through copart, they allow you to see the vehicle in person before bidding. All i really want i suppose is a salvage title shell, if i could find one, that is. For example, say i buy an evo with minor front end damage and with an engine in unknown condition for 5k. how could this possibly add up to over 15k or the 16k it would take to rebuild a high mileage evo? keep in mind all repairs except for the bottom end rebuild will be done by me, so labor costs are minimal

thanks again for the feedback

 

well
i tihnk its workable
but you have a problem
are u really skilled? are u really experience with building a car from end to finish?
if u are not capable of doing that
then u will just be wasting your time and money
its not easy to build a car from scratch, i have done it before and man its hell
if u are not familiar with evo, u shouldnt even be building it, its not as easy as you think it is

 

i am not worried about assembling the car. I have been working on them for four years now. started with hondas helping friends do swaps, had a boosted civic at one point, had an 02 wrx with which i swapped the front end to an 06, and helped build a 450whp sti last summer. Nine cars later here i am. I understand this stuff is not easy, and that is exactly why i like doing it. I have only worked on a couple of evos doing minor work but for me the best way to learn about a different vehicle is to tear into it. i appreciate the heads up, but i feel that the only thing holding me back is the money, which is why i want to do it the way i described.

 

who the hell would build an sti?

 

hah beats me, someone who wanted to go slow i guess!

 

I love my evo, but on the STI note, we just did a 06 and it baselined at 247.3 awhp, after just adding a APS 3.5" exhaust, APS 70mm intake, and a Snow Performance methanol kit with the small jet on 20 psi it made 358 awhp, and 388 ft lbs tq. so by adding 4 psi, and simple bolt ons with the MAF re-scaling it made 111 more whp and close to that in torque also. Keep in mind it was still the factory turbo and nothing else was changed.