Looking for a "Common Problems" thread
Common quirks hmm there are a few but if you catch them early nothing happens.
Some of the later models had a leak near the electrical connector box in the cabin causing "electrical grimlins".
Boost tends to blow off hoses like FPR and the boost tubes which means you need to put them back together to run right. Speaking of which get a catch can that tube into the intake puts oil into the intercooler and thats not good.
Upgraded fuel pumps tend to be somewhat noisy but not always.
Throttle shaft seals tend to leak replace them.
The wrong lowering springs blow up struts beware :P.
The heater cable in some models had a tendency to get too difficult to turn and then broke.
Improperly mounted o2 sensors on aftermarket exhausts rubbed the subframe and shorted blowing the ecu fuses and causing a no start condition.
Metal shifter bushing need grease or they get sticky and thats not cool :P.
High rpm shifting in 5th isn't easy even in new transmissions as the syncro's in that gear are pretty weak, but honestly should you lol!
Timing belt needs to be replaced every 60k miles or you risk our interference motors grinding the valves to dust. Commonly the oil balance shaft gets out of phase on this install and the engine vibrates terribly.
If the crank pulley bolt gets loose the crank angle sensor bites the dust after a few miles.
E85 runs perfect but you have to watch out for gunky build up.
Dropping the clutch will destroy the t-case or transmission same with wheel hop in really hard launches.
This is just off the top of my head
Some of the later models had a leak near the electrical connector box in the cabin causing "electrical grimlins".
Boost tends to blow off hoses like FPR and the boost tubes which means you need to put them back together to run right. Speaking of which get a catch can that tube into the intake puts oil into the intercooler and thats not good.
Upgraded fuel pumps tend to be somewhat noisy but not always.
Throttle shaft seals tend to leak replace them.
The wrong lowering springs blow up struts beware :P.
The heater cable in some models had a tendency to get too difficult to turn and then broke.
Improperly mounted o2 sensors on aftermarket exhausts rubbed the subframe and shorted blowing the ecu fuses and causing a no start condition.
Metal shifter bushing need grease or they get sticky and thats not cool :P.
High rpm shifting in 5th isn't easy even in new transmissions as the syncro's in that gear are pretty weak, but honestly should you lol!
Timing belt needs to be replaced every 60k miles or you risk our interference motors grinding the valves to dust. Commonly the oil balance shaft gets out of phase on this install and the engine vibrates terribly.
If the crank pulley bolt gets loose the crank angle sensor bites the dust after a few miles.
E85 runs perfect but you have to watch out for gunky build up.
Dropping the clutch will destroy the t-case or transmission same with wheel hop in really hard launches.
This is just off the top of my head
The problem was those stupid open diff spider gears would shatter on wheel hop.
And just like any transmission if you treat it like its worth nothing it will break eventually just how soon is the question. I know plenty of STI's that broke their transmission cause the moron would drop the clutch repeatedly for a 4 wheel burnout.
Launched correctly with the gears loaded up with a small bit of torque will help you from breaking anything in this car. Just refrain from doing 4 wheel burn outs at every stop light and you shouldn't really have an issue.
Transmission is pretty damn strong I doubled the horsepower with nothing more than a clutch and it was fine. If you have a newer than 03 model like my old RS which had a LSD in it the Tcase holds up better too.
The problem was those stupid open diff spider gears would shatter on wheel hop.
And just like any transmission if you treat it like its worth nothing it will break eventually just how soon is the question. I know plenty of STI's that broke their transmission cause the moron would drop the clutch repeatedly for a 4 wheel burnout.
Launched correctly with the gears loaded up with a small bit of torque will help you from breaking anything in this car. Just refrain from doing 4 wheel burn outs at every stop light and you shouldn't really have an issue.
The problem was those stupid open diff spider gears would shatter on wheel hop.
And just like any transmission if you treat it like its worth nothing it will break eventually just how soon is the question. I know plenty of STI's that broke their transmission cause the moron would drop the clutch repeatedly for a 4 wheel burnout.
Launched correctly with the gears loaded up with a small bit of torque will help you from breaking anything in this car. Just refrain from doing 4 wheel burn outs at every stop light and you shouldn't really have an issue.
If you limit your fun to speed and not launching these drive trains survive an enormous amount of power.
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From: Rockwall, TX
^Thanks, man (RoadSpike). That's what I was looking for. Every car has quirks like this, it's just nice to know ahead of time. Being a former DSMer, I'm not afraid of issues, I just like to know what I'm getting into.
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APEvoVIII
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
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Feb 20, 2011 09:30 AM



