recompile

iTrader: (38)

I bought my Evo IX brand new in late 06. This is everything I've learned that a new-comer might find useful (the list will probably expand as I think of more things):

DISCLAIMER: Much of this is my subjective opinion, and not objective fact. I've tried to note the thoughts that are more to one extreme or the other. Please, do your own research and decide for yourself what is best for you and your car. I could be completely wrong and everything I suggest could cause your engine to immediately blow while all wheels simultaneously fall off.

• If you're curious about learning the in's and out's of the Evo ECU, watch my 2.5 hrs series on YouTube, Intro to EcuFlash (How to Tune an Evo)
  
• Don't use Mobil 1. It's a factory fill for its emissions benefits, not its engine protection. FP voids warranties of people that use Mobil 1. Use AMSOIL, ENEOS, or any other high-performance, high-protection oil. (my subjective opinion)
  
• A fuel pump should be one of your first mods, especially on Evo 8's. (stipulated objective fact)
  
• Dyno (or Virtual Dyno) your car before you do anything. Having an accurate baseline should be the starting point for any modded car. You can't rely on the claims of salesmen saying thing like "my exhaust will put you at 330whp" or the stories of others saying things like "I hit 350whp on the stock turbo". Every car is different.
  
• Avoid the ACT Xtreme Street Clutch. Sure, it can hold a lot of power for a single-disk clutch, but nearly every owner complains of lock-out issues, especially high RPM lockouts. Either stick to a Street Disc or go for a Twin Disk. This is why. (my subjective opinion)
  
• The only "eBay-brand" performance part worth buying is an exhaust. Everything else (FMIC, piping, boost controllers, blow-off valves) is junk. (my subjective opinion)
  
• Go big on injectors. Even if you have no plan to use 1000cc/1050cc/1100cc injectors, with a good tune, it's not really any different than driving around with the stock 560cc's. And it's always frustrating to have to upgrade the same part more than once in the event that your plans change and you DO want the bigger injectors.
  
• There is no need for an aftermarket ECU or any type of tuner or piggyback. The stock Evo ECU is absolutely fantastic, and the tools needed to tap into it are cheap and even free in some cases. Make some use of the EcuFlash community on EvoM and you won't think twice about AEM EMS, Cobb AccessPort, SAFC, etc.
  
• Buy a Tactrix cable and learn how to datalog your car. Even if you have no desire to tune your own car, being able to properly log it's vital signs will give you a lot of useful information, especially when something's not working.
  
• Get a wideband with a gauge. Again, even if you won't be tuning the car yourself, knowing actual AFR goes a long way towards getting the most out of your car, and making sure you're not running into dangerous territory.
  
• Get a 3-bar or 4-bar (or even 7-bar) MAP sensor and accurately log boost. You shouldn't be trying to eyeball a gauge while at WOT anyway, and mechanical gauges can be notoriously inaccurate (eg. every stock turbo owner who thinks he's holding 24psi at redline is the victim of an inaccurate mechanical gauge)
  
• Zip tie the vac line that goes from the intake manifold to the FPR, especially if you tap this line for a boost gauge. If you should lose boost to the FPR, you'll go very, very lean, very very quickly.
  
• The stock Evo IX NGK iridium spark plugs are awesome. Gap them to 0.020 and they'll hold 500+whp without breaking a sweat... or a misfire :-)
  
• Evo 8 cams are a great mod, and for 8 owners, HKS 272s or 280s are worth every penny. Evo 9 stock cams are awesome, and 9 owners don't need to worry about cams until they go to a decent sized turbo like the FP Black.
  
• Use T-Bolt clamps on every pipe that will hold boost, or else deal with the inevitable intercooler piping that pops off.
  
• If you ever have to rebuild or want to upgrade your transmission, get a Shep "Ultimate Ratio" which consists of an Evo 9 1st, Evo 8/9 2nd (same on both cars), Evo 8 3rd/4th, and Evo 9 5th. It's absolute perfection. Get the double-synchro 5th while you're at it.
  
• Tell your tuner that you DON'T want fuel cut completely turned off, nor do you want your Low Octane Maps set the same as your High Octane Maps. These two safety features are often completely disabled by lazy tuners, but are vital should you overboost or encounter a lot of knock.
  
• Your tune (even if you want an aggressive tune) doesn't need to be borderline-dangerously lean. On pump gas, keep the AFR's at 11.5 or richer, there is little-to-no benefit it leaning beyond that. If you're on the stock intake manifold, always remember that Cylinder #3 runs the leanest, and is likely running slightly leaner than your wideband shows.
  
• If you live in an area that readily provides E85, CONVERT! It's more than just higher octane, it's also higher oxygen count. Time and time again, people have made the switch and it's worth it every time.
  
• If you don't live near E85 stations, consider a methanol injection kit from a reputable manufacturer. If you have access to it, run 100% VP M1 Methanol (0% water) for street cars, or a 50/50 mix (or even 100% water) for track cars. With a properly implemented failsafe, the risk is minimal and the gains are fantastic (40-50whp)
  
• Before you buy a full turbo-back exhaust, consider running just a downpipe and cutout with the stock catback. Some people want the look/sound of a full TBE, but the sound CAN get annoying after a year or two, especially if it's always getting you pulled over. Not to mention the cutout will likely perform a bit better. In fact, now that I've switched back from a full TBE to just a downpipe and a cut-out, I consider this to be the best mod I've done. (my subjective opinion)
  
• Don't be afraid to learn how to tune your own car. Before you drop $200 or $300 or $500 on a tune, why not just datalog it yourself and spend some time in the EcuFlash forum on EvoM? There are tons of great tuners willing to give you advice for free, and it's an invaluable learning experience.
  
• The stock boost solenoid is awesome. I still use it today, running 30+ psi. All you need is a more restrictive pill (#65) before the wastegate, and some patience and attention to detail with the tune. It holds boost better than any MBC that I've run, and you don't have to buy anything beyond a piece of aluminum rod and a drill bit. (my subjective opinion)
  
• You can do a lot with a little in the Evo world. If I had to start over from stock, and I only had $1000 to spend, I would first study up on datalogging and tuning basics (see first bullet). Then, I would buy, in this order (very much my subjective opinion):
  
  Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump ($80) - Needed to support more airflow than stock
  Tactrix Openport 2.0 ($170) - Needed to datalog the car and flash the ECU
  Innovate LC-1 w/ Gauge ($160) - Needed to log Air:Fuel Ratio
  Omni 4-BAR MAP Sensor ($100) - Needed to log Boost
  #65 boost pill ($15) - Needed to run more than 20psi on the stock boost solenoid
  QTP Downpipe w/ Cutout ($475) - Gives the performance benefit of a full exhaust, with the ability to keep it quiet

jdm96gsr

iTrader: (2)

seems like some great info for the newer comers like me, So the oil difference from mobil to amsoil is that serious?

bfresh

Sticky this seriously lol.

J.J4ck0wsk1

Yeah I completely agree in terms of how terrible Mobil 1 is. Tried it once and have never gone back, it burned off the quickest. Still reading..

siceclipse

iTrader: (7)

all good info

badhabit90

iTrader: (13)

yes.

WolfsFang

iTrader: (3)

Is the XTSS really that bad? i keep on hearing mixed reviews about it

dscevo8

iTrader: (20)

holy ****. Everything you noted I have found out the hard way. If I had this info when I first started, not only would I have a lot more money but my car would probably be faster. Great information

Ian0611

iTrader: (41)

Recompile you're the man!!!!

+10000000000

I wish I would have read this a year and half ago when I first bought my Evo. It would have saved me more hours than I care to count of reading and researching this stuff (i.e. tuning) and learning the hard way (i.e. t-bolt clamps, Map sensors, etc.)

BTW Recompile's Tuning Videos should also be stickied in the Newbie section if they aren't already. These were a huge help to me when I first started and should be required reading for anyone who even thinks about tuning their own car.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...-ecuflash.html

I'm not sure which disk Recompile is referring to but I think ACT has a couple of different disks that are part of the ACT Xtreme series. I know they have the XTSS and HDSS for sure and various disk styles (solid and puck). Personally, I have the XTSS solid disk and I absolutely love it with zero lockout issues!

chaotichoax

iTrader: (149)

well written recompile

Go_Lancer_Go

iTrader: (13)

Great Post! Knew alot of it but great reference tool I can forward to other owners

zanka06

iTrader: (4)

Yes i agree for this to be stickied, it is great to have someone sharing their trials and tribulations so others can learn from it

chaotichoax

iTrader: (149)

I added a thank you and a link in the "official" evo modding for dummies thread

tscompusa2

iTrader: (22)

i agree with everything you said Recompile

still*boostn

iTrader: (15)

GREAT INFO!

dunno about stock evo iX ngk7's going to 500whp,.. but everything else was on point!!!!

Thnx for taken the time to write this!!