thanks for the info man

 

Recompile another thing you missed..

*Must purchase all ARC parts!


Being a friend of Recompile, I shall vouch for his knowledge.

 

are you kidding me???
not for everyone though!

 

Nice write-up, but I disagree about not using Mobil 1. I used it in my WRX for over 8 years with zero problems. A major automobile manufacturer such as Mitsubishi is not going to recommend/use an oil that will harm an engine that they warranty. However, I will agree that Amsoil and ENEOS are excellent alternatives to Mobil 1.

 

OK, to everyone that says, "But I used Mobil 1 and my car is fine."

That's not the point. Obviously, Mobil 1 is not going to destroy every engine that runs it or cause major problems for most people that use it. The point is, it's an oil made for EMISSIONS beyond all other concerns. Realize that there are several other oils out there that are made for PROTECTION beyond all other concerns.

You can equate it to the guy who says, "Yea but I fill up with 91 every time and my car is still running." Well sure it is, but is 91 the best knock-resistant pump gas you can put in your car? No! Not if you have access to 93. So if you can put better gas in your performance car, DO IT! If you can put better performance oil in your car, DO IT!

Just because many many people use Mobil 1 without a problem doesn't change the fact that there are much better chemical makeups out there for people that will be running their engine aggressively. Most people in this community fall into that category, and to anyone out there who didn't know these facts, I wanted to clue them in as to the real reason Mobil 1 is factory fill, and to encourage them to look into oils made for protection.

If this was a Prius forum or a Smart Car forum, I'm sure we'd all love how well our Mobil 1 was protecting the environment. But my guess is that between all of the gas-guzzling, cat-less, CARB-violating, inspection-failing Evo's that make up this community, most would prefer to protect our investment first.

 

great post

 

I seriously hope this list is not taken as bible because there is a lot of bad information in there.

It should be looked at what it is, entertainment.

 

This is helping so much. So doing this with my next evo. THANK YOU!!!

 

Somehow this should be merged in with this thread:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-dummies.html

 

I have two questions for the OP. First, the mods you listed that you would buy if you only had 1000 to spend. You didn't mention why you would buy those and what you could do with them. Second, say you get the QTP Down pipe with cut out. You go tune the car with the cut out open. Now, your tune only works with the cut out open. What about when you want to drive with the cut out closed? Your tune won't work or you will have to change the map every time you open or close that valve. Sounds like it could be a real pain.

 

I completely understand the point you are trying to get across about using the better oil if you have access to it, but regarding Mobil 1 where is the proof that it is an oil made for emissions. Also the go back to the point, do you have an article that discusses the fact that Mobile 1 is "a factory fill for its emissions benefits, not its engine protection"?

I'm not trying to disagree with your statement, I just want to know where you are getting this information from and read up on it. From all the years I have been driving, this is the first time I've heard this about Mobile 1 and want to see the information which proves your statements about the oil.

 

good info, good to know for my future Evo purchase.

 

I certainly wouldn't consider it a Bible... it's what I've learned. Other people will have other (possibly conflicting) viewpoints as well. That's to be expected. Feel free to elaborate on what specifically is entertaining to you.

Walbro 255 HP Fuel Pump ($80) - Needed to support more airflow than stock
Tactrix Openport 2.0 ($170) - Needed to datalog the car and flash the ECU
Innovate LC-1 w/ Gauge ($160) - Needed to log Air:Fuel Ratio
Omni 4-BAR MAP Sensor ($100) - Needed to log Boost
#65 boost pill ($15) - Needed to run more than 20psi on the stock boost solenoid
QTP Downpipe w/ Cutout ($475) - Gives the performance benefit of a full exhaust, with the ability to keep it quiet

As far as tuning the car with the cutout open, there's nothing stopping you from logging & tuning with the cutout closed as well. Those two can be part of the same tune. You see, the ECU has 3D maps for fuel & timing. That means that, for a variety of situations (low boost, high boost, low RPM, high RPM, or any combination) you can input different values for fuel and timing. Since cutout open vs. cutout closed will be putting you into different parts of that 3D map, a single tune can be safe for either situation. We also have the ability to run a second set of maps using the Tephra ROM. I run a single tune that is safe for meth off cutout open, meth off cutout closed, meth on cutout open, meth on cutout closed.

Check out badhabit90's post further explaining the story of Mobil 1. I know several master engine builders that are much older than I am who have specifically told me that they will only use motor oils that are high in ZDDP because when you pull apart 100 motors a year, you get a feel for which ones were protected better than others.

 

Yup, read this thread with video.

If you're not revving higher than redline, it's great. But beyond that, you're risking lockout. The biggest problem about this is the LABOR involved in a clutch swap. This isn't the kind of part that you can swap out in an hour if you decide to go with something else... it's an all-day project. And for people who aren't doing there own work, it will end up costing big bucks.

 

i cant remember the exact chemical change but mobil one changed there synthetic oil to one that is better for emissions just over a year ago. it was at 1st a huge concern for fp turbos and was believed to be the cause of premature failure. Robert from fp did some comparisons with mobil 1 and another oil that i cant remember. the result was early failure of the stock framed turbo using mobil 1.

ive been running a thicker 20w50 racing synthetic since my rebuild and running fpred at 40lbs without an issue.