What are the First 10 Best mods for a stock evo ?
How in can the most basic combinations be left out! Ack!
Going fast is simple!
The first 8 are inexpensive and we yield awesome results!
Don't pay more for fancy looks and less performance!
And RaceGas is probably the performance mod you can have!
1) Hallman MBC ($80) w/ Gauge ($100)
2) SAFC-2 ($330)
3) Walboro Pump ($100)
4) Dynoflash fuel cut removal ($50)
5) K&N Flat Panel Filter ($50)
6) 3In. Turboback (Full) w/ test pipe (&800)
7) Pocketlogger w/ PalmPilot ($350)
8) RaceGas ($3-6 A Gallon)
***********************************
9) Intercooler kit w/ Piping and 1G BOV ($1500)
10) HKS Twin Plate Clutch ($1200)
Going fast is simple!
The first 8 are inexpensive and we yield awesome results!
Don't pay more for fancy looks and less performance!
And RaceGas is probably the performance mod you can have!
1) Hallman MBC ($80) w/ Gauge ($100)
2) SAFC-2 ($330)
3) Walboro Pump ($100)
4) Dynoflash fuel cut removal ($50)
5) K&N Flat Panel Filter ($50)
6) 3In. Turboback (Full) w/ test pipe (&800)
7) Pocketlogger w/ PalmPilot ($350)
8) RaceGas ($3-6 A Gallon)
***********************************
9) Intercooler kit w/ Piping and 1G BOV ($1500)
10) HKS Twin Plate Clutch ($1200)
Last edited by 5StarSuzuki; Nov 30, 2003 at 11:55 AM.
Originally posted by JRock
Uhm grounding kits aren't for hp/tq, you newb, they're for improved grounding, hence the name. They can help improve things like responsiveness, or so we are told. Either way the benefits they offer are not something to be measured by a dynamometer.
Uhm grounding kits aren't for hp/tq, you newb, they're for improved grounding, hence the name. They can help improve things like responsiveness, or so we are told. Either way the benefits they offer are not something to be measured by a dynamometer.
NEWB? Namecalling aside, i do pity you for being wrong, and for flaming others WHILE you are wrong...
1) if grounding kits improve responsiveness, then it generally CAN be measured on a dyno in terms of power and torque, e.g. more responsive, more power at lower rpm's.
a) the exceptions are things like drivetrain modifications, suspension, and weight. ANYTHING else, if claimed to increase performance, must necessarily show up on a dyno.
2) the fact that you can even make such a comment, and then call someone a newb for being correct, leads me to believe that you haven't the slighest clue HOW grounding kits even CLAIM to increase performance.
There are two ways you can reconcile the situation and at least TRY to save yourself.
i) listen to the knowledgeable people on this board and listen to the respectable tuners, and understand and acknowledge that you are dead wrong, or
ii) explain to me exactly how a grounding kit could increase performance without it being noticeable on a dyno, and
iii) how it would go about increasing that performance
Until then, you may be just another chump that wasted money on a grounding kit that is absolutely useless.
I don't think there is a correct answer to this question. It's all about personal preference really. Granted, you can do one mod and it won't make a much of a difference (or even hurt performance) until you do something else.
Say for example, you install an intake. Yeah, could help a little bit, but it will do much better after you put an exhaust on it. An SAFC or AEM etc probably does wonders for an otherwise stock car, but just think what happens when you put it on after you do exhaust and cams.
The point I'm trying to make is there is no real true upgrade path. It's all about what you want done to your car and the money you have to spend. Take me for example. My upgrade path looks like this:
1. boost - air/fuel - EGT gauges
2. upgraded speakers
3. small amp/sub
4. full 3" exhaust
5. UTEC
6. BOV
7. intake
8. cams
9. CF hood
10. bigger I/C with upgraded piping.
In my opinion, that is the logical upgrade path for my wants. The only reason none of that stuff is done yet is because I can't afford it at this point. So there you have it, I can't upgrade right now, and my list follows my logical path of wants.
In the end, that is the only true way to decide how to upgrade your car: personal and financial.
Say for example, you install an intake. Yeah, could help a little bit, but it will do much better after you put an exhaust on it. An SAFC or AEM etc probably does wonders for an otherwise stock car, but just think what happens when you put it on after you do exhaust and cams.
The point I'm trying to make is there is no real true upgrade path. It's all about what you want done to your car and the money you have to spend. Take me for example. My upgrade path looks like this:
1. boost - air/fuel - EGT gauges
2. upgraded speakers
3. small amp/sub
4. full 3" exhaust
5. UTEC
6. BOV
7. intake
8. cams
9. CF hood
10. bigger I/C with upgraded piping.
In my opinion, that is the logical upgrade path for my wants. The only reason none of that stuff is done yet is because I can't afford it at this point. So there you have it, I can't upgrade right now, and my list follows my logical path of wants.
In the end, that is the only true way to decide how to upgrade your car: personal and financial.
Originally posted by 5StarSuzuki
How in can the most basic combinations be left out! Ack!
Going fast is simple!
The first 8 are inexpensive and we yield awesome results!
Don't pay more for fancy looks and less performance!
And RaceGas is probably the performance mod you can have!
1) Hallman MBC ($80) w/ Gauge ($100)
2) SAFC-2 ($330)
3) Walboro Pump ($100)
4) Dynoflash fuel cut removal ($50)
5) K&N Flat Panel Filter ($50)
6) 3In. Turboback (Full) w/ test pipe (&800)
7) Pocketlogger w/ PalmPilot ($350)
8) RaceGas ($3-6 A Gallon)
***********************************
9) Intercooler kit w/ Piping and 1G BOV ($1500)
10) HKS Twin Plate Clutch ($1200)
How in can the most basic combinations be left out! Ack!
Going fast is simple!
The first 8 are inexpensive and we yield awesome results!
Don't pay more for fancy looks and less performance!
And RaceGas is probably the performance mod you can have!
1) Hallman MBC ($80) w/ Gauge ($100)
2) SAFC-2 ($330)
3) Walboro Pump ($100)
4) Dynoflash fuel cut removal ($50)
5) K&N Flat Panel Filter ($50)
6) 3In. Turboback (Full) w/ test pipe (&800)
7) Pocketlogger w/ PalmPilot ($350)
8) RaceGas ($3-6 A Gallon)
***********************************
9) Intercooler kit w/ Piping and 1G BOV ($1500)
10) HKS Twin Plate Clutch ($1200)
Question: What's the point of a Walbro fuel pump unless you get bigger injectors/fuel rail to go with it?
This thread is so vague. I mean, there are other factors when listing top ten mods. Most important of these factors is budget, then availability of parts, car's purpose (street, strip, rally, etc.), time involved, etc.
Anyway, here's a wet dream list:
1. blitz nur1 spec exhaust, decat, downpipe, extension
2. HKS fuel rail and regulator, Bosch race fuel pump,SARD 1000cc injectors
3. HKS turbo=ine kit
4. Induction kit with carbon airbox/battery relocation kit
5. Boost controller
6. CUSCO/Exedy Twin plate clutch, cusco/kazz/ralliart LSDs all around
7. Piper cam kit
8. Jun/Tomei 2.2l stroker kit
9. Autronic ECU
10. Ohlins suspension
Not in any particular order, duh.
One of those Ikeya Fomula sequential shifters would be nice too. Actually, a dogbox. Screw all that, how about just sending the car to Simon Norris, giving him like 100K to play with, and done deal.
After that, you can have MTV Cribs do a special segment on your car. Or, donate your car to the children's fund and be a saint.
Most likely you'll have Robin Leach host a part of his show at youfr garagge. NAH!!
Lee
Anyway, here's a wet dream list:
1. blitz nur1 spec exhaust, decat, downpipe, extension
2. HKS fuel rail and regulator, Bosch race fuel pump,SARD 1000cc injectors
3. HKS turbo=ine kit
4. Induction kit with carbon airbox/battery relocation kit
5. Boost controller
6. CUSCO/Exedy Twin plate clutch, cusco/kazz/ralliart LSDs all around
7. Piper cam kit
8. Jun/Tomei 2.2l stroker kit
9. Autronic ECU
10. Ohlins suspension
Not in any particular order, duh.
One of those Ikeya Fomula sequential shifters would be nice too. Actually, a dogbox. Screw all that, how about just sending the car to Simon Norris, giving him like 100K to play with, and done deal.After that, you can have MTV Cribs do a special segment on your car. Or, donate your car to the children's fund and be a saint.
Most likely you'll have Robin Leach host a part of his show at youfr garagge. NAH!!
Lee
with the DSM(2nd gen) the plastic BOV leaks at around 11-12 psi...yes 11-12 psi! This is virtually the same BOV on the evo. So yes it can help with power by holding more boost..which in turn means more power. It is not a complete waste if you get the proper valve(being 1st gen). The wrong ones being vented to atmosphere....unless you are tuned totally correct to stop the stall from happening. But they are still more for sound than anything.
Originally posted by JRock
Question: What's the point of a Walbro fuel pump unless you get bigger injectors/fuel rail to go with it?
Question: What's the point of a Walbro fuel pump unless you get bigger injectors/fuel rail to go with it?
When are you going to buy your damn Evo, J?
Originally posted by Chris in HB
The problem I've seen (even yesterday) was the fuel starvation at high RPMs. The injectors weren't at full duty, just not enough gas getting in - hence the upgraded fuel pump.
When are you going to buy your damn Evo, J?
The problem I've seen (even yesterday) was the fuel starvation at high RPMs. The injectors weren't at full duty, just not enough gas getting in - hence the upgraded fuel pump.
When are you going to buy your damn Evo, J?
Since I have a beater car I'm holding off until springtime. =)
I'll consider the options available then.
3 Things:
1) The pump is intank. (your forgiven chris) Its an easy install, the hardest thing is finding a way to manuver the ring that holds the pump inplace.
2) Fuel Pump:
You determine fuel pump size by Brake Specific Fuel Consumption...
That tells you how much fuel in pounds per hour the engine consumes per horsepower. You want a BSFC of .65 to .68.
Figure out the power you expect to make...
(Power x BSFC) x (1 + SafetyMargin) = Pounds/Hour
Gasoline is 7.25Lbs a Gallon...
Example
(300Hp x .625) x 1.30Safety Margin = 243.75
Divided by 7.25 = 33.6 Gallons per hour
x 3.785 to obtain Liters
Always use a safety margin greater than .20
3) Alot of these mods people are proposing are wastes of money. Fuel Rail is not needed, I could go on and on.
More Useful Information Available At:
Maximum Boost by Corky Bell
Engine Dynamics
AEM EFI Basics
1) The pump is intank. (your forgiven chris) Its an easy install, the hardest thing is finding a way to manuver the ring that holds the pump inplace.
2) Fuel Pump:
You determine fuel pump size by Brake Specific Fuel Consumption...
That tells you how much fuel in pounds per hour the engine consumes per horsepower. You want a BSFC of .65 to .68.
Figure out the power you expect to make...
(Power x BSFC) x (1 + SafetyMargin) = Pounds/Hour
Gasoline is 7.25Lbs a Gallon...
Example
(300Hp x .625) x 1.30Safety Margin = 243.75
Divided by 7.25 = 33.6 Gallons per hour
x 3.785 to obtain Liters
Always use a safety margin greater than .20
3) Alot of these mods people are proposing are wastes of money. Fuel Rail is not needed, I could go on and on.
More Useful Information Available At:
Maximum Boost by Corky Bell
Engine Dynamics
AEM EFI Basics
Last edited by 5StarSuzuki; Nov 30, 2003 at 09:29 PM.


