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Evo 8 wheel bearing replacement?

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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 05:42 PM
  #1  
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Evo 8 wheel bearing replacement?

So I am planning on replacing my front wheel bearings. I was quoted at $199 for the front two. Im not sure if thats just the bearings or the hub assembly. I ask this because ive heard that replacing just the bearings requires a press and some other specific tools in which i do not own. Does $199 sound like a wheel bearing alone price or the whole assembly which ive been told is pritty easy to replace just requiring basic tools and an impact gun? plz help.

Also side question? whats the best bov for a stock evo 8? I ordered a dual port one. Go Fast Bits Respons blow-off/bypass valve T9033 to be exact. But now ive been told those are a pain to get dialed in.
Any suggestions?
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 05:47 PM
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You the same guy about the turning issues? If it's 200 for both does that include installment. If not then it's the whole hub assembly. Installation will probably cost you another 150. If it makes the noise when turning right it's the LEFT wheel bearing and if there is a noise when turning left it's the RIGHT one. no need to replace both. Also the best stock BOV for an 8 is the stock 9 bov, unless you really wanna give your car a rice-tastic sound
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 05:48 PM
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What's up every one
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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whats up guy.

Anyways ya im that same guy. I geuss im just gonna keep the bov thats on its way already cause MODACAR.com charges 25% restocking fee and I have to pay for my own return shipping. Lame.

What makes the evo 9 bov better? I actually ran into a guy yesterday and he had one he would sell me for 80 bucks. Might just buy it just to have it.

Anyways. I am going to do the install myself but have been told I should do both right away. I know it may not need it but I might as well.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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Looks like synapse engineering has there **** together when it comes to Intercooler piping and BOVs so looks like ill be ordering all that stuff through them from now on.
Thanx for all the help.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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Yeah what I did was got the whole assembly considering it was just a swap and nothing else, also $100 is suprisingly cheap. As for the bov i've heard the 9 is the best but alot of people here are bias
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Go ahead and do both. I replaced my driver side and not even 3k miles later the other went out. It's a piece of cake to install the new hub too. They don't sell just the bearing itself anyway.
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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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^^^ this.

Just do both because it will happen.

Hardest part is getting the hub to release from the knuckle,but then again I'm from up north were stuff rust up. Needed an air impact chisel to break it loose.

Good luck
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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I had a buddy say that he did his with just the bearings!


These are the ones he used.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AutoE...#ht_1431wt_897
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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Question. How can you tell when the bearing is going out
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cesare77
Question. How can you tell when the bearing is going out
You'll start to get a ton of road noise since the bearing isn't rolling smoothly, and if it's on one of the front wheels, you'll hear the noise increase when turning, as was mentioned earlier in this thread. The reason it gets louder is the increased lateral force on the bearing when turning.

It can be hard to notice sometimes, though, because they can wear out slowly, and if it's gradual enough, you'll just become accustomed to the noise.

At least that's my experience with wheel bearings.
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Old Nov 24, 2012 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cryptosys
You'll start to get a ton of road noise since the bearing isn't rolling smoothly, and if it's on one of the front wheels, you'll hear the noise increase when turning, as was mentioned earlier in this thread. The reason it gets louder is the increased lateral force on the bearing when turning.

It can be hard to notice sometimes, though, because they can wear out slowly, and if it's gradual enough, you'll just become accustomed to the noise.

At least that's my experience with wheel bearings.

x2.....I am going through this now as when my car gets up to speed (over 20 mph)you can hear a low scraping/scratching sound that's consistent with the wheel speed. In my case though it doesn't get more or less noisy on turns its pretty much just a very light constant rustling under the car.....

here is the best video I could find to match the sound it makes:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...6Xjk3ymygaSMdg
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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wheres the best place to get these price wise.. and are willing to ship overseas?
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 06:06 PM
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Just get it from oreilly's, its the whole assembly you dont have to press anything and theyre from Precision its a good brand. Part#513133, I replaced the rear ones from this brand 8 months ago and they work just like OE and for the rear you do have to press the hub.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...d=hub+assembly

Last edited by adriano_917; Nov 25, 2012 at 06:08 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by rayray7734
wheres the best place to get these price wise.. and are willing to ship overseas?
I called mitsubishi parts.net They had the whole hub assembly for SUPER cheap. It was a while ago but for both fronts I think I paid $200 total for em. And this way u dont have to press anything cuz its the whole hub assembly.
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