New here, needing some Evo help!
Thanks for the info, and the comment, I appreciate it
They are pretty light cars, but not much power to them.
I already read up on the, Buying a "clean" evo thread, it was pretty helpful, thanks.
And now that i'm hearing all this, i'm changing my mind on getting a 6 speed.
I don't want to go through the hassle of swapping transmissions down the road.
What is the max power that an Evo can push on stock internals? Motor and trani.
They are pretty light cars, but not much power to them.I already read up on the, Buying a "clean" evo thread, it was pretty helpful, thanks.
And now that i'm hearing all this, i'm changing my mind on getting a 6 speed.
I don't want to go through the hassle of swapping transmissions down the road.
What is the max power that an Evo can push on stock internals? Motor and trani.

I think that's more than enough for a while, i've never experienced that kind of power. But i'm sure in the long run, I will want more. But that will come with time lol
Another piece of advice when buying is look for a stock evolution. They are getting harder to find, but not impossible or at least as stock as you can find. Be wary of those who tend to return the car to "stock" before selling often times they do not put it back to complete stock and problems arise. One example is their is numerous threads of people buying a used returned to stock evo and the owner before neglected to put the boost lines back to stock after taking off their boost controller and without the "boost pill" the car will only boost wastegate pressure.
Also if it is over or near the 60k mark be sure they have performed the required service it usually runs around 1k dollars to perform.
Also if it is over or near the 60k mark be sure they have performed the required service it usually runs around 1k dollars to perform.
Another piece of advice when buying is look for a stock evolution. They are getting harder to find, but not impossible or at least as stock as you can find. Be wary of those who tend to return the car to "stock" before selling often times they do not put it back to complete stock and problems arise. One example is their is numerous threads of people buying a used returned to stock evo and the owner before neglected to put the boost lines back to stock after taking off their boost controller and without the "boost pill" the car will only boost wastegate pressure.
Also if it is over or near the 60k mark be sure they have performed the required service it usually runs around 1k dollars to perform.
Also if it is over or near the 60k mark be sure they have performed the required service it usually runs around 1k dollars to perform.
I'll try and gain as much knowledge as I can before buying.
What kind of service is required after 60K miles?
At 60k required maintenance is all new belts water pump, tensioner, and all drivetrain fluids flushed and changed. Not a bad idea to replace struts if they are still stock as well.
I had a 2000 Celica GT 5spd about 10 years ago. That car was not very powerful, but it handled really well and very fun to drive. Girls at that time loved it and wanted rides, but my ex-gf would get hella mad.
Anyways, as far as the evo, it all depends on what are you going to do with it. Is it a DD? Are you racing with it? Planning to do hard launches?
I think the 6spd is a good transmission for DD and long highway drives. It can hold up to 400whp safely. The thing that kills this transmission is driving the car at high rpm for long periods of time. It tends to over heat it. Also if you do hard launches, it is easier to break than the 5spd.
Personally I do not race my car on the track, nor do I launch it hard. I do have long highway commutes and have done some quick take offs, but I slip the clutch and not just dump it at a complete stop. My current setup only puts out 300awtq and 325awhp on the mustang dyno.
My point of view is that if you find a clean MR that is worth buying, don't be afraid of it just because you read on the forums that it is not as "strong". The transmission won't break unless you go over board with it. I would say more than 60% of the people on here that say the 6spd is crap don't even own one or ever even driven one before. My car currently has over 70k and I never had a single problem with it.
Anyways, as far as the evo, it all depends on what are you going to do with it. Is it a DD? Are you racing with it? Planning to do hard launches?
I think the 6spd is a good transmission for DD and long highway drives. It can hold up to 400whp safely. The thing that kills this transmission is driving the car at high rpm for long periods of time. It tends to over heat it. Also if you do hard launches, it is easier to break than the 5spd.
Personally I do not race my car on the track, nor do I launch it hard. I do have long highway commutes and have done some quick take offs, but I slip the clutch and not just dump it at a complete stop. My current setup only puts out 300awtq and 325awhp on the mustang dyno.
My point of view is that if you find a clean MR that is worth buying, don't be afraid of it just because you read on the forums that it is not as "strong". The transmission won't break unless you go over board with it. I would say more than 60% of the people on here that say the 6spd is crap don't even own one or ever even driven one before. My car currently has over 70k and I never had a single problem with it.
But I still plan on getting a Supra and pushing it's limits in the future
And thank you! I know this won't be a regret
I had a 2000 Celica GT 5spd about 10 years ago. That car was not very powerful, but it handled really well and very fun to drive. Girls at that time loved it and wanted rides, but my ex-gf would get hella mad.
Anyways, as far as the evo, it all depends on what are you going to do with it. Is it a DD? Are you racing with it? Planning to do hard launches?
I think the 6spd is a good transmission for DD and long highway drives. It can hold up to 400whp safely. The thing that kills this transmission is driving the car at high rpm for long periods of time. It tends to over heat it. Also if you do hard launches, it is easier to break than the 5spd.
Personally I do not race my car on the track, nor do I launch it hard. I do have long highway commutes and have done some quick take offs, but I slip the clutch and not just dump it at a complete stop. My current setup only puts out 300awtq and 325awhp on the mustang dyno.
My point of view is that if you find a clean MR that is worth buying, don't be afraid of it just because you read on the forums that it is not as "strong". The transmission won't break unless you go over board with it. I would say more than 60% of the people on here that say the 6spd is crap don't even own one or ever even driven one before. My car currently has over 70k and I never had a single problem with it.
Anyways, as far as the evo, it all depends on what are you going to do with it. Is it a DD? Are you racing with it? Planning to do hard launches?
I think the 6spd is a good transmission for DD and long highway drives. It can hold up to 400whp safely. The thing that kills this transmission is driving the car at high rpm for long periods of time. It tends to over heat it. Also if you do hard launches, it is easier to break than the 5spd.
Personally I do not race my car on the track, nor do I launch it hard. I do have long highway commutes and have done some quick take offs, but I slip the clutch and not just dump it at a complete stop. My current setup only puts out 300awtq and 325awhp on the mustang dyno.
My point of view is that if you find a clean MR that is worth buying, don't be afraid of it just because you read on the forums that it is not as "strong". The transmission won't break unless you go over board with it. I would say more than 60% of the people on here that say the 6spd is crap don't even own one or ever even driven one before. My car currently has over 70k and I never had a single problem with it.

I love the Celica, and you are right, it does get a lot of attention, good attention lol
The GTS was a good step up from my GT, but now I want more, and it will take a lot for the GTS to get there.
That's kinda the same thing with the GTS transmission, if you push the **** out of it, it will go bad on you, the synchronizer ring goes bad, as well as the shifter cable snapping, and that is a ***** if it snaps.
This WILL be my DD and for a good while also.
I do plan on modds, but like you, nothing too extreme.
I do take care of my car, I don't plan on launching, or driving it to it's extremes.
I think I will go for an MR, if I find one for a good price, condition, and good milage. Thanks man!
What is interchangeable between an Evo 8 and 9?? I've also heard that the turbo in the 8 is smaller than the turbo in the 7 and 9??
Im not sure about the 7, but their are 3 different sized turbos between the 8s and 9s. The 8 turbo is the smallest with a 9.8 hotside. Then their is what is referred to as an 8.5 turbo which is on the mr edition and has the same size compressor housing as the 8 but has a 10.5 exhaust side. And the 9 turbo is the biggest both the compressor side is bigger and it to has the 10.5cm*2 hotside. You can also take the smaller 8 turbo and swap the larger 10.5 hotside as an upgrade which is what I did.
They also have different wg setups. The 8 has a dual puck and the 8.5 has a larger dual puck design and finally the 9 has a single puck design
They also have different wg setups. The 8 has a dual puck and the 8.5 has a larger dual puck design and finally the 9 has a single puck design
Im not sure about the 7, but their are 3 different sized turbos between the 8s and 9s. The 8 turbo is the smallest with a 9.8 hotside. Then their is what is referred to as an 8.5 turbo which is on the mr edition and has the same size compressor housing as the 8 but has a 10.5 exhaust side. And the 9 turbo is the biggest both the compressor side is bigger and it to has the 10.5cm*2 hotside. You can also take the smaller 8 turbo and swap the larger 10.5 hotside as an upgrade which is what I did.
They also have different wg setups. The 8 has a dual puck and the 8.5 has a larger dual puck design and finally the 9 has a single puck design
They also have different wg setups. The 8 has a dual puck and the 8.5 has a larger dual puck design and finally the 9 has a single puck design
How hard is it to swap a turbo from a 9 to an 8?? Price??
I found this post on CL, it's not bad. It's the color that I would like, and it has a few mods.
What do you guys think of it? What should I be looking out for with these kinds of mods??
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/2538074929.html
Exactly. My wife wasn't too happy. 
I'd check insurance before I went any further. FWIW, it is a "symbol 26" with my insurance company, and that is as high as the scale goes, shared with C6 Vettes. Anything beyond that needs specialty underwriting.

I'd check insurance before I went any further. FWIW, it is a "symbol 26" with my insurance company, and that is as high as the scale goes, shared with C6 Vettes. Anything beyond that needs specialty underwriting.






