You couldn't be more wrong on the calipers, I've onwed 3 Evos, let me repeat myself 3 EVOS, and every one of them had fading calipers and only 1 EVER saw track time, and that was less then 10 runs at a drag way and 1 Auto cross day. Just like the factory clearcoat on the Evo 8 wings was crap and faded in the sun, the red on the brembos were JUST as bad.

 

I should clarify that by "fade" I mean becoming brownbos. Not clear coat peeling. Unless its bubbling, thats abuse. My calipers know abuse too well.

 

Evo engines are pretty easy to work on compared to working on a boxer engine, that's why i went Evo =) and not STI

 

Which of your Evos were purchased new by you? FWIW, my Brembos are perfect and I'm on my third set of pads in 20K miles.

 

I still do not understand why I should get a 5spd vs the 6spd....? yes, i can understand it would be more expensive to work on, but why would it not be more reliable?

is the transmisson in the 6spd weaker? Weaker as in the syncros is garbage? How much would a new tranny cost for a 6spd vs a 5?

Also, anyone put a dogbox in their evo? likes/dislikes?

 

The 6spd is just weaker man. Its limit is something like 400wtq but IMO its just more fragile overall. Really needs the right fluid and a owner that doesn't abuse it. Part of the problem is its prone to overheating (doesn't help that it holds 0.5qt less oil) compared to the 5spd. The synchro wear is not the issue, the gears themselves break and bearings. The gears are just thinner. My car doesn't even make 300wtq and I broke the input shaft bearing on my 6spd with a quick shift on an on-ramp pull. Part of it was my abuse (I track my car fairly often) and part of it was the abuse of previous owners. It had 87k on it. And there is no point in rebuilding them because people almost give them away. You can find a 6spd on the FS section for as little as $400 thats in good condition. I literally wanted to give mine away (someone could build it up or just replace the bearing) but the cost of shipping it to anyone is literally not worth it. I'm dumping my old 6spd at a metal scraper.

The evo was meant to be a 5spd manual. Even the Evo X has a 5spd manual. IMO the only reason mitsu ever made a 6spd for the evo is cause there were customers that were like "omgz my friend's subaru has a 6spd why do I have only 5!!????"

And dogboxes are way overpriced and so not necessary. A good 5 spd is all you need.

EDIT: A new 6spd from mitsu is around $4k I believe.

 

The Evo can handle the mods better, more power gain with mods, cheaper to get more HP out of the Evo, and oh yeah when you are putting down more power the motor won't blow as easily.

 

So basically, I should stay away from the mr models? I found a mr at a dealer but they said it ha a 5spd in it. Is it common for mr owners to switch the car to a 5speed?

 

Same here. I've owned two Evos, both purchased new, and my current one has 45k on the clock and not a single caliper is fading. It's been parked outside more than inside over the past two years too.

I'm not saying this is the case, but some dealers are stupid and THINK they have MRs if the car has BBS wheels (which can be a simple swap or maybe the SE model) or the vortex generator (which is an add-on that anyone can put on it). While not impossible (as people have done it), it's not too likely that the car is an MR with a five-speed. Look at what separates the MR from the other model (in terms of stuff that isn't a five-minute swap) and see if that car has those things.

 

The thing you have to keep in mind is most people that break the 6spd usually put a 5spd in. Until last year there wasn't even an option to strengthen the 6spd. Quiet a few people have swapped the 6 for the 5.

And if the car is a IX SE then theres almost nothing to tell them apart from the MR. The only difference is the bilstein dampers and the special edition lip (which came on the MR as an appearance package). There are a few ways to tell the difference. OP, you should search and know what to look for. Most foolproof way though is to run the VIN.

 

True. The VIN will help... if it's posted, I can look at it. I work in insurance, and putting in the VIN into our quoting software will say if it's a VIII/IX (or any of its variants, including the SSL and SE models) or a VIII/IX MR (unless you know the differences in the VINs already).

But even in the situation of a IX SE, it won't have the zero-lift kit or the gauges.

 

Hands down best post in this thread. Too funny. I was basically going to say the same thing. We are on an Evo forum so naturally we would pick the STi over the Evo.

 

i'm in a evo x mr.. i had 4 track days and 8 auto cross days.. and had zero major break fade. yes the breaks had some squish to them when things got hot.. but thats only due to the stock rubber break lines. with braided lines i'd venture to say any squish would be gone.

the tires and breaks worked very well. i was able to break 20 ft shoter than a buddy of mind in a 2010 135i i was also able to gain 50ft to 75f per lap on him with the late breaking and amazing corner ability of the car.. The breaks are fine in my opinion.

 

guys....eventhough i have yet to get any test drives in...im hung up on this one..TTR tuned, and looks pretty clean. the VIN is on the last picture.

http://www.cosmomotorsonline.com/det...d-7960651.html

 

evo


/thread

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