I just sold my last dsm and i have been wanting an evo, i found a modded 2003 with 34k miles for $23k, heres the parts list

Buschur racing stage 3 2.0L built block, Wiesco 9:1 pistons, Crower rods, stock Buschur racing stage 3 2.0L built block, Wiesco 9:1 pistons, Crower rods, stock head gasket, ARP head studs. Brand new Mitsubishi crank, standard size bearings, head gasket, ARP head studs. Brand new Mitsubishi crank, standard size bearings, oil pump, front cover assembly, oil pump dr., stub shaft for balance eliminator and oil pump, front cover assembly, oil pump dr., stub shaft for balance eliminator and gaskets. Head Games street port head, GSC S2 cams, Supertech dual valve springs, gaskets. Head Games street port head, GSC S2 cams, Supertech dual valve springs, brand new valve seals, brand new Mitsubishi stock size valves* brand new valve seals, brand new Mitsubishi stock size valves*

Shearer Fabrications 6262 turbo kit, Shear Fabrication 3” inch v-band O2 housing, Shearer Fabrications 6262 turbo kit, Shear Fabrication 3” inch v-band O2 housing, Buschur Racing 3” inch exhaust with 3” inch Megan v-band downpipe. Buschur Racing 3” inch exhaust with 3” inch Megan v-band downpipe

ETS 4” inch intercooler, Mil.spec ported intake manifold, Mil.spec 65mm ported ETS 4” inch intercooler, Mil.spec ported intake manifold, Mil.spec 65mm ported throttle body, 4" shearer fabrications stainless turbo inlet pipe with k&n filter, STM throttle body, 4" shearer fabrications stainless turbo inlet pipe with k&n filter, STM 2.5" UICP, custom 2.5" LICP, tiAl 50mm blow off valve and CBRD racing radiator. 2.5" UICP, custom 2.5" LICP, tiAl 50mm blow off valve and CBRD racing radiator.

AEM Series 1 ecu, HKS DLI ignition, Buschur Racing double pumper, dual Walbro AEM Series 1 ecu, HKS DLI ignition, Buschur Racing double pumper, dual Walbro 255 fuel pumps, Precision 1200cc injectors, Perrin fuel rail and Aquamist HFS-1 255 fuel pumps, Precision 1200cc injectors, Perrin fuel rail and Aquamist HFS-1 methanol injection kit. methanol injection kit.

Iveytune built transmission, Quaife center differential, Exedy HD twin disk with AMS Iveytune built transmission, Quaife center differential, Exedy HD twin disk with AMS push style conversion kit and BM short throw shifter

Tein s-tech Springs, Robispec installed Robispec 26mm Rear Sway, trailing arms Tein s-tech Springs, Robispec installed Robispec 26mm Rear Sway, trailing arms bushings, rear bump steering bushing and Robispec racing laser alignment. Volk bushings, rear bump steering bushing and Robispec racing laser alignment.

Thats most of it i guess, apparently it made 540awhp tuned on 93 octane, im probably going to test drive it this upcoming weekend, any input would be nice

 

Tein s-techs are garbage springs. If you want your car low and still retain good suspension, get rid of the s-techs. There is a reason they are the cheapest springs on the market.

Your previous DSM, what kind of power was it making? Jumping up to a 540hp Evo might not be the best decision.

How old are you?

Personally, I would rather buy a stock, or relatively stock Evo and build it from there.

 

Yeah I agree with "Craig King" You cant enjoy a 540hp evo without realizing what it is capable of while it is stock. Find a nice stock, semi-stock evo and call it a day

 

540 hp isn't anything crazy today at least here in indy there are plenty of 500+ hp cars rollin around. Anyway, that is a fairly extensive list of nice parts and thats really low miles for an '03. I'd say if u could get the car for like 20k or so thats not to bad of deal assuming everything has been maintained and the car is ascetically sound and drives good. I mean I personally I would want to buy a stock car, but if everything has been modded by a decent mechanic I don't see why everybody is always butt hurt about buying modded evos. To mod a car that extensive is thousands and thousands so its all up to u and how it checks out.

 

I am currently 22, i ive in north dakota working on the oil rigs, i work about 80 to 100 hours a week and spend the rest of my time with my wife and 2 kids, so i dont have a whole lot of spare time, and for that reason i want to buy something that i am going to enjoy without having to put hours of tuning and modding into on the weekends, my last dsm was too much of a project for me with my work schedule

 

Just because someone else built the car and had it tuned, does NOT mean you will have the same positive experience with the car. How often have I read about someone buying a 'built' car, and within a few days/weeks, they start experiencing problems. Then YOU have to find someone to tune it and repair it. Now you have a headache, instead of a car you can enjoy on the weekends.

And I could be wrong - perhaps this particular Evo will work out great for you. But just because it made 540hp for someone else, on another shop's dyno, doesn't mean you'll have the same results.

Take this guy for example: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-day-ever.html

He thought he had a strong running Evo. Now his car has been at the shop for a few days and they still don't know what the problem is.


Good Luck.

 

Well honestly a 540hp evo isnt going to be terrible on maintenance, but it definitely needs attention as far as keeping an eye on everything, tune, fluid, plugs, etc.

 

I appreciate the feedback, thanks guys

 

The guy says its 540 awhp tune was on 93 octane at 23psi on a very safe tune, i am unfamiliar with standalone ems, is this something that only a shop can tune for me? Or could i turn down the boost some without having to adjust anything else?

 

This all depends on if he's tuning the boost with a 3 port solenoid and using the ams or if the cars setup with a a manual or electronic boost controller, and if its speed density or still maf, chances are it's probably not tuned by boost, but speed density cars can be tuned this way. U will just have to figure this stuff out yourself if the owner doesn't know or take it to a tuning shop and have it looked at.

 

23 pounds of boost really isn't very harmful at all especially if the tuner did everything correctly. But to answer your question when messing with boost levels you are always going to want to have the car retuned when changing to be completely safe. You can also have mutiple tunes programmed for you car. Just make sure the person who is doing the tuning is knowledgeable.

 

You'd be surprised how much you would enjoy a stock evo with a few basic bolt-ons...

Jumping into a 540hp car is going to be an eye opener for you... but thats just me speaking my mind. I went from a 303hp(mustang dyno) to a fully built(still in progress) expecting over 500awhp on my DBB FP Black, and many good friends into the scene are saying its a coffin... I'm a fairly skilled driver, but thats almost tripple the horsepower in the car you're looking at over what it comes with from the factory..

However, whoever built it used good parts!!

...aside from those tein's, had em in my car for a while. blew the struts a few times, upgraded to Coilovers.

 

no 2003 evo is worth anything over $16-18k, period.

If this is your first evo, you can buy a IX for that price and get the best of the CT9a chassi.

 

honestly if u were to buy a pre-modded car i'd go with this one:

http://evoempire.org/community/index...apex-silver%2F

i personally know the guy and the shops that did the work on the car and this is the only modded evo that i would buy without worrying about the car/mods and if its reliable.

the only down side is that its in california...

 

Car sounds like its worth about 18k let's not forget its a nicely built 2003.