IF we wire a switch to the E-Brake circuit the power will be transferred to the rear by punching the gas peddal, and the car will act like a rear wheel drive car?

Won't the power automatically go to the front wheels the moment the gas is applied?

 

Not exactly. By telling the drivetrain ECU that the hand-brake is on, the center diff will not be allowed to lock, so it's a wide-open, 50/50 diff. When you punch the gas, the lower grip in the rear (due to less weight) will let the rears break free. Once they break free, all power (pretty much) will go to the rear and it'll act like a RWD car.

But note that you're sending all the power through the weak-link in the Evo's driveline - viz., the transfer case - so think twice about this.

Also note that you have to punch the gas. If you drive like you're supposed to and only squeeze the gas pedal, weight will transfer to the rear and you could very well end up breaking the fronts free, instead. And that's not drifting in anyone's book ... it's just pathetic (aka drag-racing in a Honda).

At the moment you punch it, the center splits the power (torque, really) evenly between the front and rear. But as soon as one end - hopefully, the rear - breaks free, all power will go to that end. That's the joy [/sarc] of an open diff.

 

Thanks for the explanation.
I understand it now.

 

You're welcome. For those who are interested, some loser called jtmcinder wrote two tech articles on differentials on a DSM site. They're a tad out-of-date for those of us with Evo Xs, but they might be useful. Maybe someday said loser will write an article for this site, focusing on how the Evo X drivetrain works, since it's a lot more complicated and cool.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...erentials.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...ited-slip.html

ps. I'm allowed to call myself a loser ... no reporting of this post, please

 

You would be shocked by how many people don't like the lsd. A lot like the welded diff. That is what I prefer on my 240's setup.

But pretty much like i said early please do not buy an evo if your going to be stupid. Buy an sti, at least there are 3 times as many around.

 

Im not trying to be mean or sound like a "know it all", but if you look at the extras in the Tokyo Drift movie you'll find out that the evo that was used for drifting was turned into a RWD car so that it was able to drift. I've read somewhere I can't remember where, but if you really want your Evo to do that you have to make alot of whp, and have a full suppension that will allow your car to be suited for drifting. Correct me if Im wrong guys.
I have no interest in any of this stuff like drifting or burning tire, but what I do know is that once I made my car chirp when I took off from a stop light. I don't want to sound proud, but I thought it was kool for an AWD to make that.

 

I agree that a dedicated drift car that is driven by someone that knows what they're doing is better off with a spool. But if the car doubles as a daily-driver and/or the driver needs to be able to lift and catch the car when they screw up, then a hard-locking 1- or 1.5-way is probably better.

As to WHP, you don't need all that much, really. Lousy tires that are stretched out to 120% have low enough levels of grip to allow drifting. (Sorry. Couldn't resist the opportunity to rag on stretched tires.)

 

Funny ****! I thought you were referring to yourself as I read it the first time... LOL

PLEASE DO A WRITE UP ON THE X.

I read up on the AYC. It's nice to finally understand how that works.

 

glad im not the only one. I accidentally parked a telephone pole inside my roommates ws6 ta years ago



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I'd advise against using the an evo as a drift car.
I also second the poster that mentioned that the evo used in the drift movie was converted to a RWD in order to make the drifting more sharp.
If you really need to do it on an evo know that the drift or slides will be shallow at best, even in the rain. The car was really made to grip the road after all.