hi i am new to the evo Scene and looking for a new project car I owned a seat Leon mk2 2.0fsi before but it’s nothing like the evo on the level of looks/performance/quality

I need some advice on a built for a evo 8/9 (I would like to have the 9 but depends on what I can find I might be a 8) and what to improve money is not a issue also I am new to the evo world/community I have done a lot of research my ultimate goal is 800hp but looking for 500-600 first and built on from there it’s a daily street driven car but not to bring me to work (I have a vw polo 2020 that I use a family/comute car that is more then comfortable to use as my main daily driver) so downtime is no issue also I want to know in which price tag I need to look in order to set a money goal for it to build 800hp I am from the Netherlands so if any one knows some good eco tuners there for the ecu that’s great I already have a some one who can build the car


also any advice is welcome on what’s wrong or what I can add to support this car to make it less likely to blow the engine Iknow this wil happen but if it can be avoided I wil try to avoid it

• Buschur's EVO 8/9 2.3RPM Short block

• Buschur Racing Balance Shaft Eliminator kit
• ARP Fasteners *does not include head studs)
• Manley U.L. 100mm Billet Crankshaft
• I beam connecting rods
• Forged pistons with HD pins and rings
• Bearings (Rod, Main and Thrust)

• -Complete Engine Gasket Kit
• GSC Power-Division +1mm Super Alloy Exhaust Valves for 4G63T
• GSC S2 billet cams with titanium retainers
• -NORRIS DESIGNS DRY SUMP KIT V4+
• -HKS Timing Belts
• -GREDDY NEODYMIUM MAGDRAIN
• -ETS 3.5" Intercooler (Widetank)
• -RK titanium short route UICP + LICP
• -Tial MVS wastegate
• -Synapse Diverter valve
• -PTE 6766 BB turbo
• -304SS Tubular Manifold
• -OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket
• -304SS 3" O2 Eliminator Downpipe
• -Downpipe to Factory Catalytic Gasket
• -Integrated Wideband O2 Bung
• -Turbosmart External Wastegate
• -Wastegate Dump Tube
• -SS Oil Feed Line with Cylinder Head Block Off
• -Oil Return Line
• -HKS 1050cc fuel injector
• -HKS Fuel rail
• -Upgraded Fuel Lines (-6AN before and after factory hardline)
• -Walbro 450lph (Ron98 Compatible) Fuel pump
• -buschur racing -AN double pumper fuel system
• -STM fuel pump rewire kit (4 gauge wire to the back, then their 8 gauge to the pump)
• -HKS FPR
• -STM SMALL BATTERY KIT WITH LITHIUM BATTERY
• -Tomei Titanium Cat-Back Exhaust
• -Boomba racing 75 mm throttle body
• -Buschur's Ported Intake Manifold
• -STM catch can
• -shep Built transfer case with wave tech lsd
• -shep Built Transmission
• -EXEDY Triple Cerametallic Clutch Kit
• -DSS 900hp front axles
• -DSS Carbon Fiber driveshaft
• -DSS 1200hp rear axles and hubs
• -RRE installed BCS (IngersolRand solenoid)
• -RRE installed MAP sensor (3.5 bar)
• -ARAGOSTA TYPE SS SUSPENSION
• -Ultra Racing bottom brace
• -Ultra Racing rear top brace
• -ULTRA RACING REAR ANTI ROLL BAR ARB 24MM with Powerflex polybushes
• -UltraRacing 4-Point Front Lower H-Brace
• -UltraRacing 4-Piece Strutbar/Brace Set
• -D2 Racing Front Brake Kit 6 pot 356x32 mm
• -D2 Racing Brake Kits - Rear 6 Pot 356x32 mm
• -Project MU HC Titan Kai Brake Pads
• -Goodridge SS Brake Lines
• -Koyo Radiator
• -Mocal Oil Cooler
• -Mocal Power Steering Cooler
• -STM Dress Up Bolts Titanium Full Engine Bay Kit
• -JMF Coolant Overflow
• -FLUIDAMPR CRANK PULLEY
• -HKS Racing Suction Intake
• -JDC Premium COP Ignition System with GT-R Coils
• -HKS circle earth system
• -ADVANCE high efficiency alternator
• -AEM Electronics Series 2 Engine Management System
• -JDC Titanium Fuse Box/Relay Cover
• -JDC Titanium Radiator Cooling Shroud
• -JDC Titanium Valve Cover Heat Shield

Cosmetic/Audio

• -hurtling Varis x solid joker body kit complete 12k carbon
• -Varis euro GT wing 1430
• -Perrin Shorty Antenna
• -Cusco Radiator Shroud
• -Defi Racer Oil Pressure Gauge
• -Defi Racer Boost Gauge
• -Defi RACER Voltmeter gauge
• -Defi RACER uitlaat temp
• -AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge
• -Lancer Shop A-Pillar 3 Gauge Pod Factory Match
• -The Colt Speed 3 Meter panel
• -Rays VOLK Racing TE37 SAGA TIME ATTACK EDITION 18 Inch 9.5 35mm offset
• -Bride Zeta IV Keiichi Tsuchiya Special Edition Model Fixed Bucket Seat - Super Aramid - Grey Graduation
• -LIMITED EDITION Vertex Steering Wheel – FAT LACE – DISHED SPOKE T&E Made
• -Sparco quick release and boss kit
• -TAKATA SEAT BELT HARNESS: 4 POINT
• -gunmetal gray paint job
• -APR CF Mirrors
• Mitsubishi Lancer EVOLUTION 7 8 9 CT9A Xtuners Edition + LED upgrade kit model 3

i am at all no evo expert but I have read a lot and done my home work now it all needs some extra love to make it whole and complete to reach the goal

once I have it all planned out I wil start searching for a car and start the built slowly

 

Welcome @Greydemonevo9

Wow, thats quite the wish list of parts. Just my take on this: Find the EvO first as that will be the biggest task & then decide on what the build will look like.

Looks like you plan on tracking?

If you do get an EvO & want to make a project out of it, we have a Project Thread & we would like to have you participate in, please

Cheers, Joe

 

I don’t plan on tracking it till it’s completely done but even then it’s the idea for a street car bc we have no real track here in the Netherlands and the Nurburgring is a little to far P.S I have a lot of family in Germany so the autobahn is like a track on its own

I know the biggest thing is the car first but that won’t be problem just have to wait till the perfect car is for sell (I am rather picky about it)

cheers and have a nice weekend

 

Wow sounds like you have a good start to your project. I see a few things I would change to reach your goal of 800, but not limited to 5-600 at first. First thing I would change is your fuel line. I would go -8 to the rail from the tank and -6 back. Sure its kinda old school, but I'm old lol. Proven and works just fine. Second thing 6766 way more turbo then you need for even 800. I would go down to a 6466. Bad *** turbo quick spool if you wanted to keep the pte family. Injectors are a little small I would go at least 1300 to 1600 and have the extra head room. Your fmic I would change to at least a 4" being you will heat soak with that large turbo on there. I know I had an AMS fmic with my turbo and yeah not good. Had to buy a 5" to make my goals. Dry sump isn't needed for your goals but definitely nice to have in the mix. Thats all I got you seem to have a good handle on things.

 

second that, biggest red flag is too large turbo, too small injectors. You'll find as you actually build the car your going to be changing your mind and making alot of snap decisions its always good to have a foundation though. Noticed the xtuners led upgrade kit/ cluster dials . I just ordered mine and recommend this for any evo owner, quality is oem and led board is exactly what these cars should have come with factory.

 

And changing and buying and selling and rebuying, then changing your mind and buying and selling cause it isn't the right part, then realize you misses something and have to buy another part, and then your missing the correct fittings, then the parts your origionally thought were correct are wrong again, then you sell things cause its outdated and there is a better one out now. Its just a vicious cycle. I can't tell you how many times in the last 5 or 6 years I have done this on my setup lol. It is so true and it kills me to read others have the same issues lol.

 

thanks for the evo I appreciate it so much just two quick questions tho is a 6”fmic good too or over kill it’s the biggest ets have(I don’t like the idea to cut in my front bumper but if it’s needed I wil do it) also HKS doesn’t have any bigger injecters which one should I pick the turbo doesn’t have to stay pte it just need to Handle over 800whp

also the dry sump for the most part is indeed overkill but i plan on tracking it some time in the future (Nurburgring) so there it is needed for sure don’t want to starve the engine from oil

i hope the body kit bumper will accommodate such big fmic hahahahahaha bc I really like it

anyways thanks for the advice man cheers

 

I know it’s a vicious cycle I am not new to tuning so I know what you mean but it’s also the most fun aspect to me even more so when the build is finally working and complete

btw should I built the trans and transcase first or the engine and why?

 

I am also interested in a digital cluster they also sell those but I don’t know how the quality is from those and they also show boost pressure and that stuff so Maybe I change it

 

Yeah like I said 4" will be plenty for your goals no cutting needed. 6" can actually effect the way the turbo will spool so I have read. Idk if it is true or not. When I was going through my stuff I needed 5 or 6" intercooler to get my hp goal I was looking for so I called ETS to ask them what I should do. Honestly that doesn't look like an option for you being your over the pond but you could email them to ask. If your ordering stuff from ETS then they sell injectors. Get the proper size from them. If your planning on doing the Nurburg, (so jealous) then the dry sump would be ok but I still don't think its really needed. With the way it sounds like you want to run the car it maybe a good idea, but there are plenty of guys who road race their cars here without dry sumps. They just use larger sump oil pans.

Turbo wise there are plenty of turbos out there that will make the 800hp mark. Alot of people use PTE. I went with a Borg Warner just for the fact they are cheaper, easier to rebuild if needed, and flat out bad *** turbos. FP is a good choice as well, Garrett. Any way you go with your turbo selection just make sure you will be happy with the decision or that vicious cycle starts lol.

I am on a stock trans and t case on my car. I don't really think it is needed right away for the most part. I think that is an up to you thing. Believe it or not the evo trans is pretty stout. I ran 560 whp with no issues on my stock stuff for years and it never hiccuped, but yet I have gone through 3 engines in that time frame. That right there should tell you something lol. I think unless your planning on running something extreme or different gear ratios with different lsd's or whatever then I would say build it. But for doing what you want to do in the beginning I would leave them alone till they either give up or your to the power where it can't handle it anymore.

 

Haltech IC7, it does everything and it looks bad *** in the stock location. I ordered one for my car and I can't wait to install it.

 

let me know the quality of it once it arrived if it’s good I might put it on the list hahahahaha but idk if I will like it over analoge cluster all those boost pressure clusters and gauge’s do appeal to me in some way

 

Yea then i wil email them if it’s recommended to run 4 or 6

the dry sump wil be installed if it’s a maybe
like I said in this build money won’t be a issue also i wil put all the support parts in it that are possible I want to run in perfect no hiccups at all when I am done P.S the Nurburgring is still a 6 to 8 hour drive away so if I ever go I wil spend a whole weekend for fun hahahahahahaha



it is gone be build either way so I wil wait with it but it’s on the prio list after built engine when I wil be pushing 800hp
I don’t think the tcase and trans is meant for 800whp

 

Haltech makes nice stuff. This thing will tell you everything. Boost pressure, egt, oil pressure, lap times any thing and everything. Go to youtube and watch the videos of this thing and what it does. I mean I am cheap and all but I had no issues dishing out the cash for this. The cool thing about this dash is your can configure it to whatever you want. If you like the analog look your can make it look that way as well. What I like about it is I can log anything and everything with my Haltech ecu through this dash. Only thing I cannot do with it is control my acd. which sucks but beggers cant be choosers.

 

Lol my turbo is rated for 1300 hp and it has survived so far. There are plenty of guys out there making a 1000 whp with stock stuff. It will last as long as your not launching it all the time. Mind you that is not the norm but people do it. I will keep mine stock until it blows up then I will rebuild whatever breaks.