Not really.
The torque converter's stall speed is what limits the revs for an automatic transmission, because the auto tranny fluid resists higher speeds as it gets pumped through the rotor and stator.
Brake-torquing is a good way to launch an automatic, just don't do it for very long, because it's also a good way to build up heat and to break something.

 

add about 2000ish rpms to that and you'll do decent. otherwise you'll have to slip the clutch to much to keep the rpms up and you'll need a new clutch in about 2 or 3000 miles. IMO of course.

-Chad-

 

Reving higher than 5k rpm is not a good idea for any car unless you beef up the drivetrain. If you only beef up the clutch, you fry the tranny, If you do clutch and tranny, then you fry diffs etc. I use to go to the track all the time but i stopped cause it was too much stress on my vehicles. besides, the evo was never a really good deag car anyway, awd is just too hard to modulate with consistantly

 

The Australian Evolution VIII's have the same 5000rpm limit. I just read a test in the Australian "Motor" magazine with an Evolution VIII that has a few Ralliart modifications, including the removal of the 5000rpm limit.

The test didn't say what was changed, just that they could now use 6000rpm, which suits the Australian Evolution VIII better and helped to take 0.3 of a second off the 1/4 mile time. This could be different for your Evolution VIII's though because the Australian version has less torque.

Aston

 

If it's just the clutch switch then you should be able to defeat it easily . My stock clutch from brand new never engaged anywhere near the clutch switch and engaged almost at the limit of travel, well after the clutch switch had been released.

 

The clutch switch is probably needed to enable one to start the engine, so instead of disconnecting it, an ECU mod may be necessary. How did the Aussie Ralliart Evo VIII do it?

 

By unplugging the clutch switch, you'll be able to start the car w/o having to step on the clutch. It would be pretty weak if your clutch switch went out and you aren't able to start your car.

 

Have you tried unplugging it? It depends on how defined it to be fail-safe. Would they rather not have someone be able to start the engine, or start it in gear and have the car jump forward or backward? Switches are very reliable and can last millions of cycles, but that's not to say it can't happen.

 

I've unplugged the clutch switch on my 1g and 2g DSMs. I can't imagine it would be any different on the EVO as the ECUs have similar architectures. I'll try it out on my EVO once I get the chance to confirm this.

 

Okay, I just unplugged the clutch switch on my EVO and my engine started right up w/o me stepping on the clutch. I'm guessing Mitsu configured the ECU to work this way because a faulty clutch switch will not lead you to not being able to start up your engine, thus leaving you stranded.

 

Try it out as a 2-Step rev limiter, just be careful you don't blow your engine.