I now have my utec installed and a sperate system (http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm) that data logs A/F, Boost and EGT(W/ RPM and TPS). I can also data log from the utec to get knock, timming, and injector load. I am looking to biuld a good map before goimg to a dyno (about 5 hours away).

What #'s should I be looking for in respect to

A/F
EGT
Knock
Timming

Thanks

 

I know I am not a mad scientist...but what is "timming"?

 

Timing refers to the crankshaft angles at which the valves open and close and at which time the ignition system fires the spark plugs.

 

My man, search around in here, Malibujack has extensive knowledge on the Utec and can answer your questions.

EGT should be no more than 1600 MAX at any given WOT situation.
KNOCK The less the Better
Timing When you go from loe TPS to WOT the timing will drop and should gradually rise without any knock

 

a/f -----if you want to stay really safe 11.8 to 1 no leaner
egt----- most wont go over 850 deg celcius its not good things will melt
knock ----absolutely none --the 1 2 or 3 knock counts arent that bad and it can tolerate some of it but you want absolutely zero knock when your done tuning
the map
timing---will vary with octane numbers but on 19 psi
93 oct i can run about 12 deg in the midrange and up to 19 at redline
if your using the stock turbo youll be at about 9 deg midrange

these numbers work with my combination and may blow yours sky high so beware


these numbers depend on boost your running the more boost you run the more your gonna have to pull back timing..and add fuel

start low on the timing and work your way up, when it starts to det back off
look at what timing the ecu wants to run and as long as your within a couple deg of that youll be ok
start rich and start to lean it slowl till you reach your target afr
just dont take big bites and youll be good to go
regards rick

 

Interesting... I have read up to 875 on an extended 4th gear pull -- completely stock

Defi BF gauge is in #2.

Either my gauge reads high or 850 is conservative?

 

All depends on where the EGT is located.

 

It definately makes a huge difference before or after the turbo -- I believe it is standardly put before though. My sensor is about 2 to 3 inches down the manifold, just before the shield.

I would hate to see 875 after the turbo.

 

my egt sensor is on cylinder 2 about two inches away from the head and the highest ive ever recorded was 1625 F

 

875 C is only about 1607 F

 

Thanks for the info.... Keep it comming..I guess all I need now is jacks .02$

 

I have seen differences when switching manifolds from one that was tapped at 2" and one that was tapped at 4", collector or a different runner. That being said, I thing tuning with an EGT is a waste. It reacts too slowly to actually warn you. If it's reading hot, it's likely beent hat way for a few seconds. I will also say that I had one DSM that was running so leanthat I saw over 1000c. Didn't cause any immediate damage though. It was just one time though.

 

You guys are right on, I don't have to add much since most of the information you guys provided is right inline with what I would suggest..

Definitely log your first few pulls totally stock, start with that as your timing if you want, or use the stage2 map as a starting point. AFR targets can range from 11.6 to 11.2 depending on the quality of your pump gas, 12.0-12.1 if your running race gas, timing is pretty straightforward, most will see 5-9 degrees under peak boost, climbing to around 20 degrees at high RPM, boost levels, fuel, and engine "Crankyness" will affect that slightly.. Like everyone has said, start conservative and add timing as needed.. This is where the EGT is important, once you get your base tune and power levels, you want to find the sweet spot once you get your target AFR, you want to make power without generating very high EGT's too little timing or too much timing will result in high EGT's therefore its good to watch these numbers under load.

WHen you are doing your dyno pulls, do your initial tuning in third gear, then when you have a good curve, do a second, and fourth gear pull.. (First and Fifth should be similar to second and fourth) and do a final refinement of the tuning.. THis will offer the smoothest curves under most driving conditions.

You will then want to spend some time road tuning since peak numbers don't tell the whole story, and you want to smooth the maps around your peak WOT tuning to offer smooth part throttle drivability..

 

I will be tuning 93 octane for the street so I'll assume that 11.2 would be a good target... but why 12.0 to 12.2 for race gas? I though that race gas (110 to 105 octane) will detonate less so you car run leaner?

 

12:1 AFR is leaner than 11:1. Remember, the ratio is Air-to-Fuel. Larger numbers on the left side = more air per 1 part fuel (leaner), smaller numbers on the left side = less air per 1 part fuel (richer).