after attempting to tune my car once again, it has occured to me that the loads are still screwed up. with the txs map, the loads read smoothly until full boost is hit. once i reach 20.5psi, the load stays at 80 until i let off the throttle. does anyone have a similar problem? thanks justin

 

friend of mine who USED to be a member on here had exact same problem before he had AMS tune it, i will contact him if i can and hopefully he can give you some advice

 

Check your TPS setting. make sure that you reach 100% or a little over with the gas pedal to the floor.

Ben

 

can we see a log?

 

Look at your MAF reading, (if your using MAF for your load reference) Its probably around 1600-1700hz, the UTEC is configured default to hit 100% at sustained 1800hz or greater.. Adjust your max MAF setting from 18 to 16 or 17 and you'll be able to hit 100%, However you might want to only adjust it so it hits the 90% column so you have an "overboost" column that you can use to alter your tune slightly if the boost goes higher than you tune for.

Here's the situation, aftermarket MAF pipes, and Air filter kits, seem to lower the velocity of air through the MAF, resulting in an overall LOWER (hence leaner) Karmann value being passed to the ECU, these are 100% the measured results of gains offered by these filters when no other modifications are made. In most cases, it also causes unstable airflow depending on the air density and rate which makes it difficult to tune consistently at lower RPM.

The stock Airbox and maf pipe, can see MAF readings of 1800hz at times, but my experience is every aftermarket filter causes the MAF to read alot lower, even though there is more air getting in. This is very important to be aware of.

If you have a MAP sensor, you can get more stable "travel" through the load columns since it will use boost as a reference instead of the MAF reading, however be aware that using the MAP sensor cannot take air density into account so your tune may be affected slightly as weather changes. the MAP sensor for load reference settings also have a max boost setting so you have to alter that to reflect the range of boost you will also run.

 

here is a log, MB, is the knock shown here "real knock" or just not smooth tuning? the afr is fine.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

 

btw, i am using a txs map sensor, but i was getting smoother transitions using the maf for load.

 

That is knock, Back off your boost or use UTEC timing and back off from ECU values.
Maker sure you are using MAP as a load reference and change your max MAP under log to reflect your max boost.
As an example, If you have it set at 22psi and you are only pushing 20.5psi, you will only get an 80% load reference. Set it so that your max boost = max load ref for logging.

 

bishiboy, okay thanks.

say i want to tune for 91 at 21psi, so i set the load max to 21? if so, i do that for load/tuning? and what if i want to tune later on for 110? can i raise the max for the higher boost? after raising the max, will this screw up my 91map? or will it still work with the new higher max? thanks

 

????

 

Sorry, I just got back to this site. Yes, you will have to change it. The other option is to set it at your max boost for race gas and just tune your 91 octane map where 70 or 80% load will really be 100%. I hope that wasn't confussing.
I've been dealing with the same problem. I have a 91 octane map that has max boost of 20psi and a meth injection map with a max boost of 23psi. I'm just tuning my 91 octane map with the max load hitting 80%. Too bad this isn't switchable with the maps.

 

yeah, that would be cool if it was switchable. so 80 load for me if 100%.

bishiboy, looking at my log, could you give me some tips on how you would go about tuning? pretty please.

 

It's kinda hard to read your log. This is a 91octane tune isn't it?
Set your boost to 20psi (21 max).
The 1st thing is to get the AFR smooth. For 91 octane I recomend 11:1. You can have it start out a bit leaner in the lower rpms 3k-4k (no leaner than 11.5 - 11.7:1), then have it taper, becoming richer to redline, where it should be 11:1 - 10.7:1.
While tuning the afr, leave the timing to "ECU". Once you have the afr smooth, do a couple more datalog runs for the timing. Try to find a place where you can get 4th gear to redline (I know it's fast, like 120mph). If not, use 3rd gear and try to find a slight hill or load down the car with weight (3 friends).
Once you have a good datalog with ECU timing and no knock, (the ECU "learns" and will eventially get the timing really close), use the UCC timing table building tools.
Highlight the best log run, open your map and build a skeleton in the timing table.
Then go back and tweak it where there are inconsistencies. Look at some other logs and fill in as many load sites as you can. If you see knock in places consistently, back off in these areas a degreee or two.
Then use the "fill map" tool under timing tables tools.
Now go out and log more. If you get knock, back off. Look at the "ECU Timing" column. If you see the ECU timing higher than your modified timing, increase your timing (slightly) in these areas.
After every change, be sure you do some datalogging.
It's a slow process. Only make small changes at a time. I like to use .5 deg changes for timing and 1% changes for afr, then .5% when I get within .5 of goal afr.
I'll try and post up my lastest log. I've been working on my current tune for a couple weeks. I got a 90% solution two weeks ago. Now I log when I can and slowly zero in on what I'm looking for.

 

to read the log, just run your mouse over the log a bit and a square pops up in the lower right hand corner, then click that.

 

If you click on the up and down arrows(at the top left on tool bar), it will select each "run", where the TPS is 100%. But the mouse thing works too. Just highlight a selection, then open your Map file, use the timing tools.
I have noticed problems with the two different formats the UCC and Utec software use.
I just use the UCC format all the time to avoid confusion. Once you edit the Map file, save it, then up-load the Map to Utec.
I use the 9V adaptor. I leave it plugged in, then when I want to access the Utec, I conect a 9V battery and turn the car key on to accessory. The car can't be running when up-loading Map files.