i hooked up mine today and the damn car pull hard all the way up to red line! i will dyno on the 23rd with the kc boys at dieman

 

Do you have any type of flash?

 

I'm getting my 264/264 install pretty soon and send back my ECU to DynoFlash for a reflash only because I'm getting camshaft.

What do you think?

- Reflash it?
- Get back to stock and use only the AFC to tune?
- Keep it and use the AFC to get the good AFR?

 

get it reflashed , but not by Al
where are you getting the cams installed?

 

Is there any way the computer can realize the AFC is there and slowly return the settings back to stock? I know it can in closed loop, but what about in open?

 

im also in the similar predicament as Hxllxman. i just dont understand why my car would not make the same if not more amount of power on my second dyno session as my first. what do you guys think about my possible solution.
get my ecu reflashed back to stock, then get the worls RL flash (raised boost level/ rev limiter). then retun my safc.
im convinced my mail in dynoflash is holding my safc back from making more power than it should.

 

if you have just a base flash from Dynoflash is there any point in going back to stock???

 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but can I ask a newbie question? Is it possible to really use a S-AFC w/out a wideband O2 sensor? In other words, if you don't have a wideband, and you don't go to a real dyno, is there any point in using this device? (other than interesting data monitoring) I've searched a bit, but I'm still unclear.

Thanks,

Rob

 

i guess it might be just me but after having the s-afcII installed, i can't really feel a difference at all. maybe a marginal difference, but more like something a honda owner would say after installing an intake. (hey, i used to drive a civic, and after i installed my AEM CAI, i swore i felt loads of power) anyways, i used to see a gas difference, but that was when i was driving under no boost, no throttle, and under 55 mph. now, i'm barely getting 20 mpg, and i feel actually less power. my brother's sti pulls extra hard on 4th, stock, and i doubt my car will be able to keep up with his.

did something go wrong? all my numbers are still reading correctly, and everything's connected correctly... trust me on this one. maybe it's time for a utec or reflash?

 

Some of you don't quite get how an AFC works which is why you think it sucks with a flash. An afc FOOLS the computer into thinking more or less air is coming in through the meter which affects the timing tables in the ECU. If you LEAN it out you make the ECU think the car is taking in LESS air so on the ECU FUEL/TIMING MAP the TARGET TIMING for XX Load/ XX Karman reading lowers to a reading which has higher timing numbers to correspond to the lower airflow reading. So basically the higher the airflow/boost/load the lower the timing scale. The leaning of the afc slides the airflow scale down the karman scale where the ECU has higher programmed timing numbers for corresponding karman/load readings in turn raising the timing numbers.

The flash is different because instead of fooling the ECU into thinking it is seeing less air, It is REPROGRAMMED with a whole NEW SET OF MAPS.

Now when you go to lean out your AFC, it slides it down the karman scale, however the timing numbers have been reprogrammed so the timing numbers will not be affected in the same way as just the AFC alone.

The solution is to Reflash the ECU again with the desired timing numbers. www.Jestrtuning.com has a subscription service for 6 months (renewable) which you can use to update your timing numbers as you go, add fuel, lean it out. He also has boost map adjustments WITHOUT A HEFTY $$ECUTEK$$ LICENSE FEE! (bull****)