But are you knocking?

 

no, that's the crazy thing. I have never knocked.

from what I hear, anyways. But on Safc, I do show 190 knock on WOT driving, which is suppose to be 3 knock account or something...

 

You can't trust your ears or the knock reading from the AFC II. Get a logger and watch the ignition timing advance. If the ECU is holding it flat, or reducing timing, your knocking. That's the best and safest way to tell. If your not knocking, I'd say your just right.

 

i have had about 4 close evo buddies go from their flash to a safcII and made more power and the car actually ran better... i have never ever been a fan of flash's at all i skipped the safc and flash and just got the utec ... but if i had to i would have got the safc for sure...

 

I am actually testing the correlation of knock counts on SAFC2 to timing datalogs to see if there is a magic number that is actually safe to consider "real knock". I will post results after my research is completed however I guarantee you have knock at those a/f ratios. Those are too lean for race gas, let alone pump. I wouldn't be boosting around town like that. If you are running open filter intake, I would go back to the stock airbox in the meantime. Also check your fuel pressure reglator line to make sure it didn't pop off or had a hole in it.

 

at first, i was leaning more towards a dynoflash. what i have on my car right now are hks intake, bushur tbe, hallman mbe... next will be the flash or afc...

right now, im still debating whether i should get a flash or afc... i have a friend that talked to me and said that he knows someone that is really good in tuning a safc, and with it it even performs better than flashes... he said that flashes dont realy work that well..

on the other hand, while going to this thread, it seems like people get flashes, then get the safc.... but wouldnt it be possible to just get the safc, and forget the flash... yes, i know the safc is there to fine tune the car, after the flash, but how about if the guy whos gonna tune it is good at it?

also, people say that flashes give more torque, but again, how about if the guy tuning the safc is good?

oh yea, and btw, my future plans on the car isnt that much anymore, i might get some cams and cam gears and some up pipes, but aside from that, i dont really look forward to work on the car... one more thing i will be getting is a BOV, maybe a greddy

and btw, how about a utec instead of a safc?

thanks guys!

 

Yes, you can go with only an AFC. Like you said, "forget the flash."
If you don't feel comfortable tuning it, don't have access to a logger, and you trust dude... have him do it. If he's as good as you believe, you will not be disappointed.

 

With just the afc, how will you adjust timing? Raise rev limit? boost? increase spoolup? Remove top speed limiter? I ran a 12.42 on flash alone with other basic mods- no safc. Like I said I only run it now for meth injection to lean it out. I tried to improve over the flash and ended up zeroing back out as the flash was much better. Check out www.jestrtuning.com. He flashes under some of the biggest name companies out there.

 

i think with the afc you can adjust timiing much more accurate, according to him... also, i dont really care about the rev limiter still being there, and the speed limiter... for boost, i already have a mbc, that should be okay i believe..

i dont know, but im getting different opinions, some say go safc, some say go flash... maybe its just the way you tune the safc..

 

That's interesting, since when could the SAFC control timing?



It can't. Rather than cloudy up the thread with incorrect facts, take a few minutes to listen to those who know what they are talking about. If your friend told you that the SAFC can control timing, kick him in the nuts and run to your nearest tuner. BTW Buschur's latest claims are that 8500rpms is a safe rev limit occasionally. Mine's at 8K, many run 8200-8300.

 

maybe true, maybe i just didnt very much understand what he explained to me, moreover, its a air fuel mixture computer... very much true.. im thiking too about flash since i dont have that much plans of the car anymore..

 

You Cant

 

timing is adjust with safc through leaning it or richening up the fuel/air curve with the datalogger. This is possible, but pain in the a.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=135985

this is what I'm basically going though now.

I like the idea of flash, but I really don't have much on my car and it's a hassle to have take my ECU out everytime I need to make adjustments.

I might have to do it, just for safety sakes.

I'll keep you posted. I might dyno tomorrow to see if cleaning out my maf sensor did anything.

I'm not much on power games. I like the balance game better.

 

You have to buy larger injectors to get substantially better timing numbers. Richen it up with bigger injectors and lean out on the afc 15-20%. You can't control your timing numbers, only fool the ecu into thinking less air is entering the motor. Why do this when you can have custom timing numbers programmed into your ECU. If your flash tuner is local, YOUR ECU DOES NOT GET REMOVED.

THe ecu is 3 fricking 10mm bolts- not a hassle. Changing a clutch is a hassle.

What the ???? Cleaning out the MAF? What could possibly be in the MAF? Hope you did not touch the resistor in there. You can kill it easy that way.

 

" If your flash tuner is local, YOUR ECU DOES NOT GET REMOVED."

obviously. It's not. In order for me to do that, I have to get ECUTEK.


"THe ecu is 3 fricking 10mm bolts- not a hassle. Changing a clutch is a hassle."

obviously, but it's a hassle to send it over and have to fine tune it or even wait for your ecu to return. That's a day or even 2 days before you could drive your car.

Not everyone has second car for daily driving.

Changing a clutch isn't a hassle, since I don't have to do it myself. I've paid someone else to do it. That was probably the easiest thing I've done. But costly.

"What the ???? Cleaning out the MAF? What could possibly be in the MAF? Hope you did not touch the resistor in there. You can kill it easy that way."

you're thinking about the hotwire maf sensor. Karman works differently. You can easily kill the MAF sensor, period.

There could be dirt and oil in in the MAF sensor.

do some search or read my post that I've linked on how karman vortex sensor works and how the friction difference in the maf sensor surface to distort the votex, or even oil getting into the mirror.

Don't get mad, just because you're not open minded.

it's called a discussion, not a screaming match.