Flash vs SAFC
Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
With just the afc, how will you adjust timing? Raise rev limit? boost? increase spoolup? Remove top speed limiter? I ran a 12.42 on flash alone with other basic mods- no safc. Like I said I only run it now for meth injection to lean it out. I tried to improve over the flash and ended up zeroing back out as the flash was much better. Check out www.jestrtuning.com. He flashes under some of the biggest name companies out there.
How are you monitoring your adjustments to the AFC?
How do you raise your boost?
How often do you rev past 7600 RPM's and drive over 155mph?
Last edited by turbolarry; Apr 30, 2005 at 08:23 AM.
Originally Posted by turbolarry
Do you have a log of this flash?
How are you monitoring your adjustments to the AFC?
How do you raise your boost?
How often do you rev past 7600 RPM's and drive over 155mph?
How are you monitoring your adjustments to the AFC?
How do you raise your boost?
How often do you rev past 7600 RPM's and drive over 155mph?
BEFORE THE JESTRFLASH
AFTER JESTRFLASH (missed 3rd gear, D'oh)

I don't quite understand you next question. The AFC is zero'd out on pump gas and only used for methanol injection.
The JEstrflash removes boost taper and increases the boost to maximum pump gas safe levels 20-22psi. This additional boost option was added after I already had a hallman so I currently use the MBC which is needed to adjust the boost higher for meth.
Rev past 7600? At least 8 times a week I bounce off the limiter in my short 2nd gear. The fastest Evo's use higher limits than that. There is another local with a 8300rpm limit that ran 11.6 on the stock turbo. He was also flashed with the JEstrflash. See the website for the details . Drive 155+?, never and no plans to do so in the near future.
Flash + AFCII is a good combo if you want to switch from Gas pump to Race Gas.
JESTRFLASH on 110 and additional boost

With C16 an afc would help as you can lean the hell out of the tune on that fuel. For those with normal budget that refuse to dish out $60 for 5 gallons of c16, the 110 on the flash works well.
Thanks dsm95hybrid, but I was looking ignition timing improvements provided by flashes. Something like this;
http://www.evotuners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=299
http://www.evotuners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=299
There are some timing tricks the flash tuner can talk to you about if you contact him. I know that my minimum start value has been raised, idle timing raised for the 272's, added fuel. There is a "no less than X*" of timing flashed in there. With that it is easier to pick up knock retard (knowing what # to look for). I will be increasing timing here in the next few days due to no knock on the WI. This is included in the available subscription service (6 months of updates)
Last edited by dsm95hybrid; May 1, 2005 at 04:33 PM.
Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
There is a "no less than X*" of timing flashed in there. With that it is easier to pick up knock retard (knowing what # to look for).
I was trying to tune an AFC on top of a flash and it was three times as hard. Despite any adjustments I made between 3000-5000 RPM's the timing would not move. I went lean here too, had to have been knocking lean, but the ECU would not pull timing like it should. The opposite wouldn't work either. No matter how rich I made it, the ECU wouldn't advance timing either.
If the timing doesn't move, how do you detect knock? Was this just a fluke flash? I'd love to know for sure.
http://www.evotuners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=364
"What the ???? Cleaning out the MAF? What could possibly be in the MAF? Hope you did not touch the resistor in there. You can kill it easy that way."
you're thinking about the hotwire maf sensor. Karman works differently. You can easily kill the MAF sensor, period.
There could be dirt and oil in in the MAF sensor.
do some search or read my post that I've linked on how karman vortex sensor works and how the friction difference in the maf sensor surface to distort the votex, or even oil getting into the mirror.
you're thinking about the hotwire maf sensor. Karman works differently. You can easily kill the MAF sensor, period.
There could be dirt and oil in in the MAF sensor.
do some search or read my post that I've linked on how karman vortex sensor works and how the friction difference in the maf sensor surface to distort the votex, or even oil getting into the mirror.
I called the dealer, they told me there is 3 hot wire in my MAF sensor and I shouldn't clean it or even touch it. I don't see what the hell he's talking about, since I was looking at the Karman Vortex sensor diagram when I was talking to him.
All I saw was, photocoupler, mirror, pressure directing hole, intake temperature sensor.
I asked him, "are you sure you're not talking about the HOT WIRE sensor?" he's like, "evolutions have 3 hot wires inside the MAF sensor. Don't touch those.".
All I saw was, photocoupler, mirror, pressure directing hole, intake temperature sensor.
I asked him, "are you sure you're not talking about the HOT WIRE sensor?" he's like, "evolutions have 3 hot wires inside the MAF sensor. Don't touch those.".
The pic in your other thread shows the "resistor" I warned you not to touch. IAT sensor/resistor the point was it can kill the meter. Unfortunately I am speaking from experience because my Mercedes maf died that way. Take it for what it is worth. Sure you would rather spend $450 on IC pipes than a new MAF.
I believe that "resistor" is actually the intake temp sensor. and no, i didn't touch that thing. Just touch the pressure sensor pipe.
i rather spend that $450 on getting a set of seperate race tires.
i rather spend that $450 on getting a set of seperate race tires.



