Turning with the Wideband
Turning with the Wideband
Can someone shed some light on this issue for me? Last night after working on intsalling my alky kit and the wideband 02 (zeitronix) -- Sitting at idle I noticed my AFR is at around 14. With my AFC II, I tried adding fuel, removing fuel but the AFR did not change. Stayed right around there. Has anyone seen this? Should I be able to change this ratio at idle?
I'm not really concerned with the idle AFR -- this was mere testing purposes. It almost appears that the AFC II isn't working correctly -- THAT is my concern. Any thoughts?
I'm not really concerned with the idle AFR -- this was mere testing purposes. It almost appears that the AFC II isn't working correctly -- THAT is my concern. Any thoughts?
At idel yes. Your ECU will work with your fuel trims to correct to 14.7. If anything you will pull a lean code which means your LTFT is 12 or above.
You can have your 1000 RPM setting at -8 or 0 and still run 14.7 at low throttle.
Oh forgot to add, you can't tune your low throttle with a wideband, you will need something that reads STFT and LTFT.
You can have your 1000 RPM setting at -8 or 0 and still run 14.7 at low throttle.
Oh forgot to add, you can't tune your low throttle with a wideband, you will need something that reads STFT and LTFT.
Last edited by sccavee; Aug 1, 2005 at 08:55 AM.
Oh, well that helps. Thanks for the input! I did notice though at high throttle above 5k rpm -- the AFC II did what I wanted it to do
I'm running a conservative tune at -14% basically across the board and it's a completely different car! Just need to figure out my wiring mishap with the alky -- currently it's not working =/ Back to the drawing board.
I'm running a conservative tune at -14% basically across the board and it's a completely different car! Just need to figure out my wiring mishap with the alky -- currently it's not working =/ Back to the drawing board.
Originally Posted by Kronik
Oh, well that helps. Thanks for the input! I did notice though at high throttle above 5k rpm -- the AFC II did what I wanted it to do
I'm running a conservative tune at -14% basically across the board and it's a completely different car! Just need to figure out my wiring mishap with the alky -- currently it's not working =/ Back to the drawing board.
I'm running a conservative tune at -14% basically across the board and it's a completely different car! Just need to figure out my wiring mishap with the alky -- currently it's not working =/ Back to the drawing board.
I picked up the coolingmist alky kit -- i believe i have a wiring issue with the boost switch and the LED.
How did you wire up your boost switch? I have a feeling the alky just isn't spraying. And I can't get the LED to light up either =/
How did you wire up your boost switch? I have a feeling the alky just isn't spraying. And I can't get the LED to light up either =/
Last edited by Kronik; Aug 1, 2005 at 10:56 AM.
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Oh, I also forgot to metion, when watching the graphs on the laptop, everytime I would shift gears my knock would go from 0 to 199 -- then soon as the gear was engaged knock when back to 0. I don't think that is truely knock -- but what is causing that?
Originally Posted by Kronik
I picked up the coolingmist alky kit -- i believe i have a wiring issue with the boost switch and the LED.
How did you wire up your boost switch? I have a feeling the alky just isn't spraying. And I can't get the LED to light up either =/
How did you wire up your boost switch? I have a feeling the alky just isn't spraying. And I can't get the LED to light up either =/
Black wire from harness to water solenoid and middle port on boost sensor
*ground top/offset port of boost sensor to a solid ground
White wire from harness to the other solenoid wire and to ignition power source
Red wire is not used so tape it up
Yellow wire from harness to the pump top wire
*make sure you ground the pump
Blue wire from harness goes to a constant 12v power source. this is also the one you put the fuse in.
you can test the system by turning the key(don't start car) and grounding the black wire off the harness. what i did was with everything hooked up i stuck a scrap piece of wire down in the relay harness where the black wire is and touched it to car for a ground. the solenoid should open and let it spray. hope this helps. if you have any trouble pm me and i'll give you my phone number.
Originally Posted by scherejs
ok once the harness is plugged into the relay you want to wire as follows:
Black wire from harness to water solenoid and middle port on boost sensor
*ground top/offset port of boost sensor to a solid ground
White wire from harness to the other solenoid wire and to ignition power source
Red wire is not used so tape it up
Yellow wire from harness to the pump top wire
*make sure you ground the pump
Blue wire from harness goes to a constant 12v power source. this is also the one you put the fuse in.
you can test the system by turning the key(don't start car) and grounding the black wire off the harness. what i did was with everything hooked up i stuck a scrap piece of wire down in the relay harness where the black wire is and touched it to car for a ground. the solenoid should open and let it spray. hope this helps. if you have any trouble pm me and i'll give you my phone number.
Black wire from harness to water solenoid and middle port on boost sensor
*ground top/offset port of boost sensor to a solid ground
White wire from harness to the other solenoid wire and to ignition power source
Red wire is not used so tape it up
Yellow wire from harness to the pump top wire
*make sure you ground the pump
Blue wire from harness goes to a constant 12v power source. this is also the one you put the fuse in.
you can test the system by turning the key(don't start car) and grounding the black wire off the harness. what i did was with everything hooked up i stuck a scrap piece of wire down in the relay harness where the black wire is and touched it to car for a ground. the solenoid should open and let it spray. hope this helps. if you have any trouble pm me and i'll give you my phone number.
Everything is wired correctly. Could the boost sensor be out of adjustment? We will try testing the system like you stated. Thank you for your help.
Why havn't we met? I know almost every evo in the city.....except you.
Paul
if you test the system like said before then it won't matter what the boost sensor is adjusted like. if it doesn't work then there is another problem, but if it does work then you prolly need to adjust the boost sensor. the best way to adjust it is hook up your led to the same port on the boost sensor that you have the solenoid hooked up to. when the boost sensor sends the signal to the solenoid at a given psi it will also send a signal to the led letting you know it turned on. you can then drive around and compare your boost gauge to the light turn on point and adjust accordenly.
Originally Posted by Appauldd
Everything is wired correctly. Could the boost sensor be out of adjustment? We will try testing the system like you stated. Thank you for your help.
Why havn't we met? I know almost every evo in the city.....except you.
Paul
Why havn't we met? I know almost every evo in the city.....except you.
Paul
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can you give a brief description of what your afrs should do. something like this:
idle 14.7
1000-4000 i add some fuel, but should i be at 12-13?
4000-5500 12?
5500-6500 11?
6500-up 11.3?
i dont know where it should be exactly. thx.
idle 14.7
1000-4000 i add some fuel, but should i be at 12-13?
4000-5500 12?
5500-6500 11?
6500-up 11.3?
i dont know where it should be exactly. thx.


