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General Engine Management / Tuning Forum Discuss general EMS tuning concepts that do not pertain to a specfic brand or product.

guys save your car and read this if your new to the afc

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Old Aug 25, 2005 | 12:25 PM
  #16  
li1p1aya's Avatar
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wow, is this basically the concept you need to tune with a SAFC? Was thinking of just a mail in Dynoflash now looks like i'll be adding a SAFC to fine tune it.
what does the low throttle set points suppose to do? will you be writing a manual for it also?

Great post! sticky this!
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 01:55 PM
  #17  
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yeah i am curious to know what the low and high throttle settings are for too
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 02:32 PM
  #18  
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great post! very useful for someone new to the 4g63 engine...
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 02:39 PM
  #19  
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i know its kind of weird but im running 12.2-12.3 with NO knock, im running a Utec. im reading off a UEGO, i thought it was off, so i tried a LM-1 and sure enough i have low 12's across the board, could '05's be different?
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 03:54 PM
  #20  
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Lightbulb

This log is with the LM-1, the lighter line and the numbers in parenthesis are with the SAFC set @ 0 correction, the other is with a 5% reduction. I still have not tuned my vehicle as this was a quick test that was done. When the graph dips rich is when I engaged third gear. I thank my DynoFlash for the flatness of the A/F as this makes it much easier to tune since you don't have to be correcting at different RPM's to flatten it out.

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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 08:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Nez136
i know its kind of weird but im running 12.2-12.3 with NO knock, im running a Utec. im reading off a UEGO, i thought it was off, so i tried a LM-1 and sure enough i have low 12's across the board, could '05's be different?
12.anything is not good unless you have water/alchohol injection or you are running N/A. and no 05's are no different than 03/04 models on engine internals. you need to richen your car up. can you post a log so we can see timing. also it would be nice to see what your egt's look like.

Last edited by o4whtevors; Sep 14, 2005 at 08:57 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 06:31 AM
  #22  
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awesome post, i'm definetly throwing this link in my favorites... thank you!
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 12:58 PM
  #23  
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great great post.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 05:50 PM
  #24  
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ok here is the logger side of it i left out,

starting off with the diagnostic side of the logger. your logger works by inturpriting the signal coming out of your obdII port into something you can read with your pda. it can also reinturprit the signal from the pda into some thing the ecu can understand. in doing so it alows you to view and clear trouble codes. lets say you are driving home from work and your check engine light comes on, well now all you have to do is plug in your pda and self diagnose the problem, clear the code if you wish, and repair the problem if posible. im going to go ahead and insert a link to known obdII trouble codes seeing as some of the codes will be unknown to the logger and only list a number. http://www.obdii.com/codes.html . this list should have just about every thing your car can throw out.

alright now to the tuning side of the logger. your logger alows you to view alot of things, some of witch you dont really need to be worried about. unfortunatly our obdII cars will not show knock directly so all we can see is timing and narow band afr. also in my first post i talk about the importance of a wide band 02, that still holds true. narow band 02 voltage is not what we want to tune with, it is not accurate enough for us but that is what your logger shows. ok that said i see alot of people logging things that dont need to be logged like intake temps and water temps. your logger can log one thing so many times per second, everthing you ask it to log on top of that takes more time to do so, so you want to keep the input logged to a bare minimum inorder to get as many rpm intervals as posible. what you are really concernd with is timing and rpm, if you dont have a wide band go ahead and log 02 voltage. also please do your logs in third gear only, changing gears makes it a pain in the *** to see whats realy going on.

ok now we can get into some log examples. alright lets say you are running tbe, fuel pump, mbc, intake, and an afc. the name of the game is to keep your timing as high as you can through the run, loss of timing = knock in most cases. alright so lets say you have your afc set like this starting at 3k (not that you will start your run at 3k, it just saves me some typing) this is just an example, afc first.
rpm / -/+ cor value
3k=-2
3.5k=-2
4k=-5
4.5k=-9
5k=-13
5.5k=-14
6k up=-14
ok now lets say your log looked like this
rpm/timing/02 voltage
3k 12 .96
3.5k 8 .96
4k 6 .92
4.5k 4 .90
5k 3 .90
5.5k 5 .92
6k 8 .92
6.5k 11 .92
7k 13 .92
this would be a bad tune due to the fact that the timing diped so hard at 5k due to the lean condition. idealy you want to come into peak tourqe rich and lean out, but you also dont realy want your timing to drop below 5 or 6. lets show an example of a good log. also just an example afc first

rpm / -/+ cor value
3k = -2
3.5k= -2
4k = -3
4.5k= -5
5k = -6
5.5k= -9
6k and up = -9
and lets say the log looked like this
rpm/timing/02 voltage
3k 10 .96
3.5k 6 .96
4k 7 .94
4.5k 9 .94
5k 11 .92
5.5k 13 .92
6k 15 .92
6.5k 18 .92
7k 21 .92
ok notice how in this example there is no hard dip comming into boost at 3.5k, the timing stays over 6 the whole run and never dips. its just a smooth steady climb from peak tourqe at 3.5k to redline. also the max timing is 21 witch is just about perfect. now in the two examples i tried to show how taking to much fuel in example one will afect timing. now if it was realy bad the timing could dip all the way into the negative range. that would be a real extreme case but it can do that before you hit fuel cut. also you want to watch out for dips in that steady climb. for instance if your timing is going like this
rpm/timing
3k = 10
3.5k=6
4k = 8
4.5k=4
5k = 5
6k = 7
in this case we had some knock at 4 - 4.5k so we would want to add some fuel back in that rpm range. i have noticed if the car has knock at a low rpm range the timing will never recover completly by red line. the trick is to have no timing pulled at any point in the rpm range. keep a close eye on what the car is doing as the boost comes on as this is one of the toughest spots to tune. also keep in mind a car that is not pulling timing but running a hiar rich will always make more power than a car thats running lean and pulling timing.

Last edited by o4whtevors; Oct 25, 2005 at 08:04 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2005 | 06:21 PM
  #25  
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nice write up. very helpful to me. i have my safc2 in the car but haven't connected it yet. still struggling about getting the injectors or not
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Old Oct 12, 2005 | 12:05 AM
  #26  
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Nice write up. Btw, I'm a little confused about the TH-Points settings (TH?)? and do you always have to take it to the dyno to tune it?

Last edited by AznFlip; Oct 12, 2005 at 12:13 AM.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by EVO8_PR
hummm 900c is

(temp in celcius x1.8)+32= temp in farenheit

1652 degrees farenheit... autometer gauges don't even read that high...

I would say with race fuel(pure race fuel) you could go a tad higher but just for a couple of seconds.
I get into 985-1000*c on meth with no knock amazingly.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #28  
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Lo Throttle settings is basically tuning at WOT? right...and HI Throttle settings is when you tune for cruising...right? cause i gotta tune my hi throttle settings....rich as hell
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 08:21 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
Lo Throttle settings is basically tuning at WOT? right...and HI Throttle settings is when you tune for cruising...right? cause i gotta tune my hi throttle settings....rich as hell
Tune high only unless tuning with MAP instead of TPS.
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Old Oct 19, 2005 | 08:40 AM
  #30  
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oops...i meant the opposite... for cruising tuning...
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