What's the OLF feature? I had to go back to my "0" map before I left as the knock light would come on in just about all gears at WOT. It didn't do that on the dyno NOR on the trip home from the dyno. Noticed it on Sunday, the day after my dyno session. I went to the zero map and turned the ABC back down to two turns out from fully closed. I've read the knock senor is a bit more sensitive on the 05's and I think knock on throttle tip-in (WOT) is causing timing to be pulled in my case. The check engine light will light up at tip in and as I accelerate periodically, something that did not happen the day before. The UTEC did not seem to be able to lean the car out enough and the fuel correction maps were taken all the way down to -11 with very little change and then only up to a certain point. After that point, a/f ratios refused to budge when tuning.

My only comment about the UTEC at this point is that the interface needs a heavy tweak. You should be able to just plug the thing in and it should work as intended. I feel like I have to flip the right switch, spin around three times and pray to the tuning gods for this thing to work correctly. Maybe it's just an 05 issue, who knows. I'll address all of this when I get back from N. Orleans although we might be down here a bit longer due to Hurricane Rita, sigh...might get stranded or the paper may want us to stay longer depending on where it hits.

 

Hey pm me, i know someone in FL that is really good with the UTEC and will tune also on the dyno.

 

Open Loop Fueling.. AKA OLF, it directly controls the injectors and no longer will get fuel cut, maf cut, rpm or other limits imposed by the ECU.. In fact, if OLF is not enabled, you'll have all sorts of problems with tuning using the MAF offset method (similar to tuning with an AFC)

 

i wish malibujack lived near me so that i could have him help me with my utec cuz he seems to be the most knowledgeable about the utec and not to mention that i dont know jack **** about tuning or how to work my utec

 

Most tunes need to be "Street checked" before you are completely done. Most tuners are aware of the difference in the loading on the Dyno, than the load on the street.. Especially a dynojet where the rollers are a fixed weight of much lower mass than the car. I've noticed this quite a few times, which is why I always road-tune my car.

You are absolutely dead on about tip-in causing knock, between shifts can happen also. It takes a bit of finesse and finding the cells where it happens and working with those. But this is unfortunately something that would also happen with the stock ECU also. There are some adjustments I have found (not related to the UTEC) that I was able to make to help things, even your DV/BOV can have an impact on that "Knock" between shifts and tip-in... Weather has a huge impact also, so tuning for hot weather then driving on a cooler day could also get you a bit of knock, so it requires a little refinement and "headroom" left on the table.

 

Makes sense...I'm always a bit hesitant to road tune due to safety reasons. I used to do that in my RX7, making 4th gear pulls late at night on the highway. That usually meant 155mph bursts flying down the road. Third gear didn't yield enough samples for me to tune comfortably. I could probably do third gear pulls in the Evo and still be "legal".

Really didn't want to get sucked in to the whole tuning thing but it looks like I'm going to have to. Or I may just have an ECU reflash and be done with it. Tuning was done on a Mustang Dynamometer. They just couldn't get it to lean out at all. Refused to go north of 10.5 to 11:1 at WOT depending on where it was in the rev range. Is there a temp correction table with the UTEC?

I'm trying to keep it as simple as possible so I may try one of those new Forge MBC's. Once I get solid boost to redline, I'll start tuning again. Still need to contact TXS on Monday too.

 

You know, the first time you used the acronym "OLF" I was thinking of Microsoft OLF libraries, LOL.

I'm assuming OLF is something that's changed via software and not by a switch? There's a toggle switch on the UTEC box and we thought that might be the cause. Flip it up however, and the car doesn't start.

 

It is something that probably has to be enabled, but its not a switch on the box, but its in the UTEC parameters, there should be a whole menu dedicated to OLF (open loop fueling)

 

I gave up tring to find the right person for a tune. I have been doing street runs etc.. to build some logs. I live near the Florida Turnpike so I jump on there run up and down a few times to get data. I exit change settings and do it again If you have the time its really not that complicated. I started with the AFR first then did the timing. I have a pretty complicated setup acording to some people. My car idles fine, never stalls, and starts up like stock.

UTEC must be doing something right... 3 months ago I had no idea what an EMS even did. I am running a car with "my tune" at an AutoX going WOT often with 11's AFR and aggressive timing Don't give up UTEC its actually pretty fun to play with! The next releast might fix up those problems for you. It is supose to be out real soon.

 

I'd really like to know what the best procedure is for DIY street tuning on the UTEC. A step-by-step guide detailing your technique so we don't have to reinvent the wheel, so to speak. Maybe something we could add to the How To section of the forums.

I realize a lot of this seems like second nature to those of you who've got it figured out, but some of us are just starting to learn.

 

I started writing a tuning guide last year, never got around to finishing it though.