gunnerman

iTrader: (7)

Just wondering what exactly it does and what benefits can be gained from using one? I plan on adding a full-turbo back exhaust (hks hi power, invidia cat-delete, and helix Dp), hks 272 in/ex cams and i already have an typhoon intake on. What will it do for my car? in the future i plan on getting an ecu. which ecu would work best with safco??

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

I will answer your question regarding the S-AFC, but I first must mention that you have a LOT of research to do before buying your mods. You already have the worst possible intake for our car (Typhoon), and you're running it untuned, which is a big no-no. Also, our car already has an ECU...all cars do, so I'm not sure what you meant when you said you plan on getting an ECU. If you meant that you are going to get an aftermarket standalone ECU to replace your stock ECU, then that will cost around $1500 and will require intense tuning by a professional, accreditated individual and will cost even more. Lastly, you would never in a million years worry about an S-AFC if you had a standalone ECU, so the last question makes no sense.

Now, I use an S-AFC personally, but it's only because I still had one left over from my previous DSMs. I didn't want to pay for some other form of tuning when I had an S-AFC lying around. I still had to buy a patch harness so that it could tie into the stock ECU without splicing the factory wiring, so it still wasn't a free mod. If you get an S-AFC, you will also need this same patch harness ($100) along with a wideband O2 ($300 minimum) and a logging device of some kind ($100 minimum). You would then have to learn all about tuning cars in general, tuning the Evo, and tuning the Evo with an S-AFC.

What the S-AFC does:

The S-AFC intercepts the airflow signal from the Mass-Air Flow sensor in the intake. It then modifies this signal (by adding or removing fuel points in the settings), which fools the stock ECU into thinking more or less air is coming through the intake. This requires the ECU to provide more or less fuel depending on whether you add or remove percentage points. The result of this is that it changes your AFR to a more desirable level. The side-effect of doing this is that the stock ECU chooses different timing maps that are associated with that amount of air flow, which also can provide you more power. Unfortunately, since there is no direct control over timing, you have to keep playing with it until you find the best combination of boost, AFR, and timing. This can be done effectively above 5500rpm, where the factory AFRs are very rich, but it does not work in the 3500-5500rpm where the factory AFRs are lean. This means that if you use ONLY an S-AFC, you will lose 20-30wtq max and for almost 2000rpm...the portion where we spend most of our time while daily driving.

Now, the way I prefer to use the S-AFC is to have a base flash that gives me decent AFRs and great timing in the 3500-5500 range, but then I fine-tune the AFRs on the top end (5500+) to get optimum performance. I also use the S-AFC in order to tune for race gas when at the track.

SR20DE-T

iTrader: (10)

If you ask that question I think it is better for you to get a ecu flash. By the way the safc alters the maf sensor signal to the ecu to let it think it is seeing more air or less. In turn you can tune for leaner or richer fuel.

wallyevolution

iTrader: (7)

The SAFC? is

S..earch
A..nd
F..ind
C..omprendo?

J/k of course, Warrtalons explanation sums it all up

outsider

iTrader: (14)

Warrtalon,

If you wouldnt mind, which base flash did you use for your MR? I'm planning on going with a base flash and SAFC ontop of it for the time being aswell (new warranty and all)....

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Al @ Dynoflash did it for me based off a TBE, MBC@21psi, and a fuel pump.

evo_rc

iTrader: (20)

about how much whp on a average considering every car is different can u make from getting a baseflash and then using safc2 on top of it...

BoOsTinGEVO190

iTrader: (10)

i say 15-20

DarksideEng

iTrader: (38)

Al guarantees 20 whp. If you got a flash and an safc, you could fine tune with the safc. You would need to dyno tune it or buy a wideband.

evo_rc

iTrader: (20)

so i should just wait on installing my safc after i get my flash.... and dynotune it after the flash....thx

DarksideEng

iTrader: (38)

Yes, flash first, then go fine tune the fuel with the SAFC.

mchuang

iTrader: (11)

so if you get it flashed and fine tune with afc..what timing maps does the ecu select based on your afc settings since it is no longer factory spec
..

Takahashi

iTrader: (1)

jesus... Sounds so complicated. Maybe it's because I'm automechanics-illiterate... I was planning on buying an S-AFC myself, but after reading all of the negative effects of it, I'm guessing that a flash might be better for newbies like me. No? What exactly are the benefits of this converter?

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Yes, takahashi, I would recommend a flash. It would be much less complicated, less dangerous, and less of a hassle. That is unless you plan on running race gas at the track or if you plan on doing lots of mods spread out over time, which would mean you'd be paying for multiple reflashes.

BANKS

why is that k&n typhoon the worst intake??? its just a pipe with a filter on the end, like the rest of them.

explain.