Yeah that sounds like pretty bad customer service. You'd figure with all the competition out there, these guys would focus on providing quality service since that's mainly what differentiates them.

As far as getting your ECU back to stock, you can pick up Open ECU and a cable from tactrix, then download a "stock" rom image to flash back onto it. I dunno how safe this is, but as long as you flash it with a rom that is the same year it should be ok. Another option would be to go to a real shop and have your car tuned on a dyno. The hardest option would be to use that cable, download the rom that was flashed on your ECU and manually revert it back to stock. That could be time consuming, and you'd have to be careful not to make any mistakes.

 

Yes, you did. Read where i quoted you saying "half to 3/4 throttle." I don't know why you would be testing AFRs without full throttle - that doesn't make sense. Anyway, Al doesn't tune to 10.0 AFRs. If yours was off, then something with the car was off. All the ridiculously fast Dynoflashed cars out there aren't running around with 10.0 AFRs. I guess you thought he just decided to give you a bad flash for the hell of it.

 

10 AFR at full throttle, half throttle, 3/4 throttle, idle, off idle, 25% throttle, etc etc is too rich.

Full throttle is not the only important part of a properly running motor. If it was we would have a button for throttle, not a pedal with percentage of travel.

 

Yet you don't see tuners spending time to do part-throttle tuning on dynos unless it's with an AEM EMS or something. It's simply not feasible. Maybe you can spend the time to do it for yourself, but to expect part throttle perfection at every possible load from a $200-400 tune is a bit much.

 

as for this little "thing" thats going on about tuning for WOT or inbetweens, Im with the side that says tune the inbetweens as well.

From what I've seen with ECU flash, and load cells, and from what I've read on these forums and the mild tuning that I've done myself: there is nothing like having a nicely tuned flash that goes throughout all your RPM, and all your throttle position. Drivability becomes very enjoyable.

Now for my question:

If I am running a stock turbo, with a turbo back (including the turbo outlet housing) of 3" and an intercooler piping kit, fuel pump, 750cc injectors... what air/fuel # should I be looking for?

What if at the moment I was getting low 11's to high 10's (afr) at initial WOT with about 27-28lbs boost, then tapering to low 11's to mid 11's (afr, sometimes high 11's) and 22lbs boost by redline? Is this good? If I have a data logger, lets say I cannot figure out how to log knocks (because I realize that's very important) and I have evoscan, an innovate lc1 kit, and all the cabling for the laptop, how would I do so? lets say I have ecu flash also.

I'm sure this will help anyone that views this thread. Thanks in advance.