ApexI SAFC POLL - Please Respond
The voltage check is just to make sure your signals are working right. One trick that has been done in the past is to use the secondary MAF signal input (for cars with two MAF sensors) and wire that to your front O2 sensor to get a free air/fuel meter although as I said before that is only a rough estimate of your air/fuel mixture. Many maps floating around for the EVO are fairly aggressive so be cautious.
Another note, you MUST setup the sensor settings. Our cars use 4 cylinder, Karman, with the TPS setup being the upward pointing arrow, etc.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Another note, you MUST setup the sensor settings. Our cars use 4 cylinder, Karman, with the TPS setup being the upward pointing arrow, etc.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Originally posted by QuantumEVO
The voltage check is just to make sure your signals are working right.
The voltage check is just to make sure your signals are working right.
One trick that has been done in the past is to use the secondary MAF signal input (for cars with two MAF sensors) and wire that to your front O2 sensor to get a free air/fuel meter although as I said before that is only a rough estimate of your air/fuel mixture. Many maps floating around for the EVO are fairly aggressive so be cautious.
Another note, you MUST setup the sensor settings. Our cars use 4 cylinder, Karman, with the TPS setup being the upward pointing arrow, etc.
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Thanks a lot Mark, great info......
You have an SAFC2 and don't know the settings?!?! 
The SAFC2 comes with a Japanese instruction manual which should tell you those settings for CT9A and others in the back of the book, IIRC. What other settings are there? I cannot remember anymore off hand but if you tell me I will remember for sure. They are the same as DSM's;
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm
Don't use their actual values for NE points but the unit setup should be the same.
Mark

The SAFC2 comes with a Japanese instruction manual which should tell you those settings for CT9A and others in the back of the book, IIRC. What other settings are there? I cannot remember anymore off hand but if you tell me I will remember for sure. They are the same as DSM's;
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm
Don't use their actual values for NE points but the unit setup should be the same.
Mark
OK, here is what I found out so far. I set the SAFC2 initially on my dining room table with a battery charger as a power source.
I set up the sensor type for karman, the car selection I chose 4 cyl. with the arrow pointing up.
I hooked it up to the car and started the engine so I could verify the rpm and perform the sensor check. The set up I used did not produce matching rpm between to tach and the SAFC2. Here are some readings:
4 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 1000 1800 3000 4000 5000
SAFC2: 841 1261 1927 2200 3037
3 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 850 1500 3300 4000 5200
SAFC2: 620 1150 2400 3300 3600
2 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 850 1500 3000 4100 5100
SAFC2: 914 1600 3200 4400 5300
1 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 850 2100
SAFC2: 1817 4500
The numbers are approximate. It's very difficult to hold the pedal at a steady rpm with my foot. I gotta find some mechanical way to hold the accelerator down.
Anyway, as you can see, none of the settings resulted in matched rpm. I could not find any obvious way to calibrate the SAFC2 to the engine tachometer. I left the car in the "2 cyl-arrow up" setting. Is this going to result in a problem?
I also proceeded to do a sensor check. The readings were:
IN-1: 0.020-.025 V
IN-2: 0.010-.015 V
Thrt: 0.650-.660 V
KNK: .00060
I'm still unsure about these settings. For one thing the users manual shows in page 51 some explanations (in clear Japanese
) that the voltages show by the sensor check are related to the the direction of the arrow or the 2 asterisks next to the number of cylinders in the "car select" menu. Of course, I cannot fathom what these instructions might say.....
Can anyone shed more light on this?
Thanks
I set up the sensor type for karman, the car selection I chose 4 cyl. with the arrow pointing up.
I hooked it up to the car and started the engine so I could verify the rpm and perform the sensor check. The set up I used did not produce matching rpm between to tach and the SAFC2. Here are some readings:
4 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 1000 1800 3000 4000 5000
SAFC2: 841 1261 1927 2200 3037
3 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 850 1500 3300 4000 5200
SAFC2: 620 1150 2400 3300 3600
2 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 850 1500 3000 4100 5100
SAFC2: 914 1600 3200 4400 5300
1 cyl-arrow up:
Tach : 850 2100
SAFC2: 1817 4500
The numbers are approximate. It's very difficult to hold the pedal at a steady rpm with my foot. I gotta find some mechanical way to hold the accelerator down.
Anyway, as you can see, none of the settings resulted in matched rpm. I could not find any obvious way to calibrate the SAFC2 to the engine tachometer. I left the car in the "2 cyl-arrow up" setting. Is this going to result in a problem?
I also proceeded to do a sensor check. The readings were:
IN-1: 0.020-.025 V
IN-2: 0.010-.015 V
Thrt: 0.650-.660 V
KNK: .00060
I'm still unsure about these settings. For one thing the users manual shows in page 51 some explanations (in clear Japanese
) that the voltages show by the sensor check are related to the the direction of the arrow or the 2 asterisks next to the number of cylinders in the "car select" menu. Of course, I cannot fathom what these instructions might say.....Can anyone shed more light on this?
Thanks
Originally posted by QuantumEVO
You have an SAFC2 and don't know the settings?!?!
The SAFC2 comes with a Japanese instruction manual which should tell you those settings for CT9A and others in the back of the book, IIRC. What other settings are there? I cannot remember anymore off hand but if you tell me I will remember for sure. They are the same as DSM's;
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm
Don't use their actual values for NE points but the unit setup should be the same.
Mark
You have an SAFC2 and don't know the settings?!?!

The SAFC2 comes with a Japanese instruction manual which should tell you those settings for CT9A and others in the back of the book, IIRC. What other settings are there? I cannot remember anymore off hand but if you tell me I will remember for sure. They are the same as DSM's;
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm
Don't use their actual values for NE points but the unit setup should be the same.
Mark
Very useful..... I really appreciate it... do you know why the rpm reported by the SAFC2 and the tach do not coincide?
lets keep this post alive...
i would also like to compare settings with anyone willing to do so..
my mods installed so far are:
rmr intake, blitz sbc id, buschur 3" turbo back, greddy type s, and safc..
i would also like to compare settings with anyone willing to do so..
my mods installed so far are:
rmr intake, blitz sbc id, buschur 3" turbo back, greddy type s, and safc..
Thread Starter
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From: Gilbert, AZ
I have been playing with my settings that I first started the post with for the past month. I have traveled back and forth to CA in both the HOT air here in AZ and the cool there running about 19lbs to be convenient for daily driving.
I went to run the car not so lean, to really rich, back to my first settings posted...
The car works awesome that way! I have installed a Knock link...which everyone should to listen to detonation. The car is running reall good
I went to run the car not so lean, to really rich, back to my first settings posted...
The car works awesome that way! I have installed a Knock link...which everyone should to listen to detonation. The car is running reall good
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
Be careful on those 02 readings guys.....while its really not an ideal way to tune, due to the very fickle way 02 sensors work, you ideally want to see no less than .91-.92 volts..that will translate into a final AFR that is both good at producing power, yet rich enough not to kill anything.
Have not played with the SAFC on an Evo yet, but on the DSM's we usually like 20%-25% as the low throttle and 65-70% for high.
Be careful on those 02 readings guys.....while its really not an ideal way to tune, due to the very fickle way 02 sensors work, you ideally want to see no less than .91-.92 volts..that will translate into a final AFR that is both good at producing power, yet rich enough not to kill anything.
Have not played with the SAFC on an Evo yet, but on the DSM's we usually like 20%-25% as the low throttle and 65-70% for high.
I'm not sure what these readings represent but I think that they are "safe". I will do more data logging without the SAFC2 in place and see what the readings are like and compare them with the loggings with the SAFC2 in place. Anyway, I'm obviously getting readings much lower than .91- .92 (volts?) but these do not occur except at very low TPS percentages so it might be OK. Oh yeah, we do have 93 octane gas around here so that might be a plus....
Any thoughts?
I'm gonna go ahead and bring this thread back and see if we can't get some more feedback.
I'll be putting on my SAFCII unit really soon, along with a HKS downpipe and JIC catback exhaust. I'll be running 93 octane, so will the above maps be okay to use? I don't have a wideband or a dyno near here and I'm at school now so taking a roadtrip to find one is a bit out of the question.
I don't need to have overly aggressive settings, but at least enough to take advantage of my new exhaust.
Any help?
I'll be putting on my SAFCII unit really soon, along with a HKS downpipe and JIC catback exhaust. I'll be running 93 octane, so will the above maps be okay to use? I don't have a wideband or a dyno near here and I'm at school now so taking a roadtrip to find one is a bit out of the question.
I don't need to have overly aggressive settings, but at least enough to take advantage of my new exhaust.
Any help?
Ca anybody post a step by step how-to strarting from getting the S-AFC II out of the box? Pictures would be super as well.
Have the most OPTIMAL settings installed for a stock EVO and have tips when adding certain parts such as a cone intake, downpipe, cat-back, cat-delete, etc.
Thanks guys!
Have the most OPTIMAL settings installed for a stock EVO and have tips when adding certain parts such as a cone intake, downpipe, cat-back, cat-delete, etc.
Thanks guys!
Originally posted by BadBoyBeltran
Ca anybody post a step by step how-to strarting from getting the S-AFC II out of the box? Pictures would be super as well.
Have the most OPTIMAL settings installed for a stock EVO and have tips when adding certain parts such as a cone intake, downpipe, cat-back, cat-delete, etc.
Thanks guys!
Ca anybody post a step by step how-to strarting from getting the S-AFC II out of the box? Pictures would be super as well.
Have the most OPTIMAL settings installed for a stock EVO and have tips when adding certain parts such as a cone intake, downpipe, cat-back, cat-delete, etc.
Thanks guys!
Originally posted by EVO_RPM
If I have Xede can I still use the safcII? or should i use the safcII
If I have Xede can I still use the safcII? or should i use the safcII
The SAFC2 would at best be an expensive and worthless addition to the XEDE and at worst it could undo everything the XEDE is doing plus cause the engine to fail....... IMHO, you should not add any type of fuel or timing controller if you already have an XEDE. It would be like adding another XEDE or running 2 SAFC's in the same car
Last edited by silverEVO8; Sep 8, 2003 at 10:47 AM.
You could add the SAFC2 to the car in addition to the XEDE, but why would you want to do it? According to Shiv, the XEDE already does everything that the SAFC2 does plus more.
The SAFC2 would at best be an expensive and worthless addition to the XEDE and at worst it could undo everything the XEDE is doing plus cause the engine to fail....... IMHO, you should not add any type of fuel or timing controller if you already have an XEDE. It would be like adding another XEDE or running 2 SAFC's in the same car
[/B][/QUOTE]
Yep, With xede you have a 20x20 fuel adjustments compared to 12 Rpm points of the S-AFCII. Shiv's base maps are very good to begin with so just load up the closest base map and get to a dyno.
Eric
The SAFC2 would at best be an expensive and worthless addition to the XEDE and at worst it could undo everything the XEDE is doing plus cause the engine to fail....... IMHO, you should not add any type of fuel or timing controller if you already have an XEDE. It would be like adding another XEDE or running 2 SAFC's in the same car
[/B][/QUOTE]Yep, With xede you have a 20x20 fuel adjustments compared to 12 Rpm points of the S-AFCII. Shiv's base maps are very good to begin with so just load up the closest base map and get to a dyno.
Eric
Originally posted by Eric Lyublinsky
With xede you have a 20x20 fuel adjustments compared to 12 Rpm points of the S-AFCII. Shiv's base maps are very good to begin with so just load up the closest base map and get to a dyno.
Eric
With xede you have a 20x20 fuel adjustments compared to 12 Rpm points of the S-AFCII. Shiv's base maps are very good to begin with so just load up the closest base map and get to a dyno.
Eric
Please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm not sure if the XEDE cab be tune by the end user.... I believe you can have a variety of pre-programmed maps that you can load into the XEDE but none of these would be optimized for your particular car...


