my car didn't have the stock boost lines on so i bought an mbc.

 

well that makes since but i have watched my gauge and it stays at .14mpa (20ish psi) unless my gauge isn't picking it up witch doesn't make since. i was kind of thinking that it might be the cold weather too. but sad news, i found my #2 cylinder is reading 20psi lower than my other cylinders so i have to go tomorrow and get a leakdown test to hopefully make sure its not my piston ring.

 

this doesn't make since. i bought the ap because i didn't want to do that many mods. I meet the requirements to run the stage 2 map and yet i am having problems and need to spend more money on a pro-tune??? Would COBB like to chime in on this maybe?

 

I would say before anyone hints that it could be problems with the AP map.....first things first check to make sure the car is in tip top shape.....if the engine has a prob as you have stated it might that needs to be resolved first.

Then if all is well.......ditch the boost controller....have cobb get you the correct boost lines for your state and altitude.....

Lastly, you mentioned you have the stock intake hose but it sounds like you might have a cone filter or open element filter.....if that is the case COBB has been pretty adamant that only the stock intake, COBB INTAKE, or panel filter in the stock box is KOSHER for their BASE MAPS.

But first get that engine checked out and fixed before anything else

 

yes i realize that the car needs to be checked out and fixed first. Im not saying that its COBB fault or anything. It just seems like everyone is saying get a pro tune for this $700 item you just bought. I also don't understand how my intake is different. From the website it looks like its just a MAF adapter and a filter. THat what I have just not the COBB name.

 

Regarding the filter it probably won't or wouldn't really effect the map....I'm just repeating what they have said.

And definitely I don't think you need a protune either if you are keeping things simple.....I'm sure once your car is running in tip top shape the cobb map will really make a difference...it did on my car

 

it has already. especially the tbe. car spools much faster. just the cuuting and now my number 2 cylinder. im on my way now to try and get a leakdown test done.

 

i got a hks intake with stock cat running stage 2 and mine runs great.So im 100% its not your filter man

 

yeah i figured it wouldn't be. There are a couple different things it could be but until i get my motor fixed i have to drive like a grandpa.

 

dont feel bad i drive like that every day. Damn cops!!

 

ha ha yeah thanks. i usually don't drive crazy but knowing that i can't because my motor may be hurt sucks.

 

It worked good but it started up again. I'll probably go to Dynoflash and get the tune later this summer when funds are hopefully better. But since its been hitting the 50's now its running better, hasn't been studdering. Once its get alil warmer i'll do a boost leak check again.

 

Hey if I may ask, do you perform the boost leak test all the way from the turbo such as I have tried?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...4&postcount=24

I ask because I do not think I found any leaks except that in order to do so, I had to hold closed a hose that comes off the valve cover. I was told by Cris at Cobb that it be temporarily held closed to check for leaks, but when I close it off, so much pressure builds up and that I have to also hold down the oil cap in order for the air not to escape. Any comments and/or recommendations?

 

I did the boost leak check the way Cobb recommened it, from the LIC pipe. Held good till about 26 psi when the MR BOV started to leak. I didnt need to close a hose or hold down the oil cap.

How much PSI were you building for you to hold down the oil cap???? Sound like you were building way to much. You should only test about 3-5 psi over your set boost level.

 

Yeah I read and was told that the hose did have to be held. Not sure if it was smply because of how the valves happen to be sitting when I turned the engine off right before I started to conduct my test (read that in the forum as well). I was using the MR boost gage to make sure I did not go over 1.3 bars and when I asked Cris at Cobb, he said that it was ok to hold the hose closed. Even another person in that thread stated that it should be held closed (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...&postcount=25). Interesting that you did not have to do it. The fact that I decided to test the system all the way from the turbo does not change the fact that your hose did not leak and mine did. The difference is that I tested the whole turbo system includind the turbo itself which does not normally leak but I thought, what the hell. Who knows!