What will happen if i raise boost with no tune?
You'll get knock is what you will get. I don't understand why anyone would use MBC anymore to be honest. It's like trying to use 2 decade old technology on your newer car. Doesn't make sense when the other options are cheaper and better. To each his own i suppose.
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Also, ECU boost isnt cheaper. To have proper ECU boost you need:
- A 3 port solenoid
- A MAP sensor
Then you also have to:
-Mod the ROM for the MAP sensor
-Mod the ROM for PSI based boost.
And last you have to tune it (which take a good amount of time more then a MBC).
To some people thats a lot of work compared to the install, set & forget style of a MBC. Also, the cost of a 3 port and MAP sensor is more expensive then a MBC.
Yes w/ ECU boost you will be able too hold more boost from 5Krpm-redline and you will/can make about an extra 10-15HP&TQ in that area.
But to some people that 10-15 HP&TQ up top just isnt worth the hassle of ECU boost.
Also there is a handful of ways to get a MBC to hold more boost from 5Krpm-redline and gain that same 10-15 HP&TQ.
Yes, there is other benefits of ECU boost, like being able to switch boost levels/profiles when switching maps. Also there is the stealth-ness of it.
But still, for some people, a MBC is just fine.
Last edited by Boosted Tuning; Jan 2, 2010 at 02:29 PM. Reason: grammer
You'll also whack off your fuel cut if you go too high.
There are other ways to do stock ecu boost without a GM 3-port while using the stock BCS...bleeder valve in between the turbo and the BCS works too while helping to cut down on oscillation, but you do have to remap all the boost control tables.
There are other ways to do stock ecu boost without a GM 3-port while using the stock BCS...bleeder valve in between the turbo and the BCS works too while helping to cut down on oscillation, but you do have to remap all the boost control tables.
To be honest, if you go over 1.2/1.3 bar you WILL get boost/fuel cut. If you get that removed, but don't get a proper remap, then you AT LEAST need to get fueling & knock checked.
Upping the boost without a remap won't instantly kill the engine. If the AFR's are good and knock count is within reason (occasional knock counts of 2-3) then the car will be perfectly fine with the upped boost, but obviously to make the MOST of it you need a remap. Personally, in your position I would fit it and keep it at stock boost (1.0/1.1 bar), then fit the rest of your parts when they arrive an take it to get properly mapped at your desired boost level.
Upping the boost without a remap won't instantly kill the engine. If the AFR's are good and knock count is within reason (occasional knock counts of 2-3) then the car will be perfectly fine with the upped boost, but obviously to make the MOST of it you need a remap. Personally, in your position I would fit it and keep it at stock boost (1.0/1.1 bar), then fit the rest of your parts when they arrive an take it to get properly mapped at your desired boost level.



