Like the title says, pros and cons for each?
My searches bring up a lot about the older LC-1. Needs calibration and all that.
Big question is does the LC-2 work properly with Evoscan?
I just ordered a Tactrix cable and now need to choose a WB. The LC-2 is what looks good to me but there isn't a pile of info on it.

My car is a IX/MR with a drop in filter and under-hood bushings. Just finished paying it off and I'm about to start modding. Will have a MAP sensor in the mail this week.

Oh yeah, is it reasonably "safe" to flash TephraV7 with a stock JDM rom to a stock USDM car? I am confused a little by some of this.

Mostly the thing about the sensor though!

Thanks,

Donovan

 

I have had two LC-1's and I have a LC-2 now. I will not buy any other brand and I have had zero problems with all three.

The LC-2 is easier to install [1], but more difficult to calibrate [2]. Otherwise they work the same and anything that is compatible with a LC-1 will also work with a LC-2 [just choose the LC-1 option]. The LC-2 control box is a little smaller than the LC-1 control box but they both have the exact same connections [including a "old" serial connection vice a USB port for logging]. I would buy a LC-2 if I were you.



[1] Wiring a LC-2 is the same as wiring the LC-1 for connecting power, ground and any gauge you might have. The difference is the LC-2 does not use a calibration button and calibration LED like the LC-1 does, this is why it is easier to install.

[2] Calibrating the LC-2 is more difficult for the same reason as [1]. To calibrate a LC-1 you just hold down the button for about 30 seconds with the O2 sensor in a free-air environment [you do not necessarily have to remove the sensor from the exhaust for this]. To calibrate a LC-2 you must disconnect the sensor wire and power on the LC-2, when the status light shows it is in calibration mode, then power off the LC-2. After this, you reconnect the sensor wire [with the sensor in a free-air environment just like above] and power the LC-2 back on. The LC-2 will automatically go into calibration mode and when it is done you are ready to go. This really isn't that inconvenient or difficult, but compared to the push button for a LC-1, it is a little more work.

 

Awesome, that is exactly what I wanted to know.