alot of us who respect your opinions are anxiously awaiting your feedback on the new MAF sensor you just acquired!!! I for one have my hand on my credit card ready to dial the number!!! So how about an update!!! Ray

 

I am extremely interested in this as well, I just bought their turbo kit and purchased the utec.....but I'm having a hard time picturing where that maf would go on my rmr hardpipings and how would I go about the intake part of my system.

 

Hey.. had a glith with my air filter (It was TOO BIG) to fit.. I'll have the new filter on the 17th from Lancershop that should fit.. so I'm delayed again.. I'm doing it as a drawthrough for now.. then redo it as a blowthrough later.. Its SWEET.. very nicely made. My alternative was a GM 3" or 3.5" MAF with a MAF Translator, but everyone has trouble calibrating them initially since most people don't have the ability to see the stock Karmann frequency across the RPM Range..

 

So Jack.....if I wanted to run this setup. What would I need to modify for my current setup to make this work....I got rmr intake, rmr induction pipes, rmr hardpipings going on right now under there....not sure how this whole thing fits in and does this require fabrication?

 

You have two options.. The first option requires the least amount of work.. That is the "Draw-Through" setup.. basically you replace the stock MAF with the new sensor..
To do this conversion, you will need a "hose" Coupler, depending on your intake pipe diameter will depend on the coupler.. If the intake pipe is 3", the MAS is 3" Its about 3 inches longer than stock, so keep that in mind.. you will also need a K&N SHORT cone filter with a 3" diameter inlet. I tried the universal 9" long filter, but its too long to fit correctly with the intercooler spray bottle in its stock location. 6" and slightly smaller diameter will probably work better. *EITHER* installation will currently require splicing into the MAF connector's wiring harness since there's currently no connector to mate the two, thats fairly easy, remember to leave the old connector intact if you want to swap the sensor back.

The other option is as the sensor was originally intended, which is in the upper intercooler pipe.. the best location is in the bend just before it goes into the intake manifold.. so basically it would go between the blowoff valve, and the manifold.. You will need to measure and remove a section of pipe from the upper pipe about 1.5-2 inches longer than the MAS sensor, you would then use couplers to mount and clamp the sensor. Again, the wiring is done the same way. Then you can remove the old sensor, and you have basically an air intake pipe with no maf onto it.. So you'd need a filter to put on the end of that pipe (In that case, the 9" filter should fit as long as you get the pipe diameter right)

The only fabrication required (That I can tell) is modifying the upper pipe for the sensor if you want to use it.. Everything else is just aquiring the right misc parts like the couplers ( 2 of the 3" to 2.5" if your using a 2.5" Upper pipe) If your using a buschur (or similar) intake pipe you'll need a 3" neck diameter filter, 6" long with the MAS in the stock location, or 9" long if you chose to put it in your upper pipe) If you choose to put the MAS in the stock location, you'll need a 3" to 3" coupler.

I got these parts from my local speed shop, but most won't stock these things.. Buschur racing does actually have these parts because many of their pipes are 3" or 2.5" and couplers to link the two.

 

Oh.. Another thought for us UTEC users.. since I completely overlooked the fact that we have to continue to use the stock boost solenoid.. Most aftermarket intake pipes and intercooler pipes remove some of the vacuum fittings on the aftermarket pipes, so you will find that the nipple your stock "boost controller hoses" will no longer have a vent point or a vaccum source.. The vacuum source is easy.. do the same as you would with an aftermarket boost controller and place a T-Connector in the Diverter Valve's vacuum line and connect it there. The "vent line" that goes to the stock intake pipe can be vented to the atmosphere, but I recommend getting a small filter to put on the nipple where the hose went "Just in case" Don't forget that an aftermarket intake pipe removes the fitting for the breather so you need to put a breather filter on the valvecover.

 

cool, that answers exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks Jack!

 

will this new MAF device handle 22 PSI of boost with out damage or exploding???? Are the conversions allready built in and is it basically "splice and play"?? So with this all we would tune is the A/F ratio right?? Will our data logs look the same??? Sorry for all the questions, but for $600 pluss, i need to be sure.

 

Great questions.. yes, this thing will easily handle 30psi of boost, its real sturdy and made of cast and machined components, no plastic.. Its designed as a blowthrough setup, but will work as a drawthrough. It is more or less "Splice and play" though I'll post a real how-to with pics on one of the other subforums (how-to's or Evo Engine)

Ok.. Here's what I expect to happen.. This thing is calibrated to produce a "Simulated" maf frequency from 30hz at Idle, through 1600 or so under full load.. Those values should closely correlate to the airflow through the hotwire sensor. Since this thing is calibrated to our Evo's, they will closely match the stock sensor's values at those flow rates..

Now, here's the cool thing, since MAF turbulence is no longer an issue, you should see a smooth ramping of frequency, plus you won't see the weird MAF Anomolies with aftermarket filters, therefore most of us dialing in additional fuel for aftermarket filters that cause lean spots, will no longer have to do that.

Now, with that said, my only concern with the new MAS sensor installed as a blowthrough, is that there is an air temp sensor in the unit.. it measures the intake air temp, if used as drawthrough, it should be the ambient outside air temp (more or less) but in blow-through mode, it will read the temp after its gone through the compressor, which means the temp can rise dramatically and may require some level of calibration since the average intake air temp will now be higher.

So to answer your questions short and simple.. Yes, this MAS sensor will handle well over 22psi, Yes, the conversion/Calibration is built into the control unit, yes, it is splice and play (you need to splice into the stock MAF wiring harness, but I *AM* currently trying to source the connector used on a stock Maf sensor to provide the information back to Ultimate Racing so they can make this truely plug and play.. Oh, and the flow rate of the new sensor appears to be over 2x the stock sensor.. so you can upgrade to 3" Upper pipes with a monster turbo and move tons of air.

If someone has an old (preferrably nonfunctional) stock maf sensor they can send me, I can use that to get the part#'s off and do my research.

FWIW I have 2 final "Restrictions" I am currently addressing, the Throttle body and intake manifold.. Oh, and instead of experimenting with stock turbo upgrades, I decided to go with a GT35R turbo kit, so I'm targetting the 500+ whp mark (realistically 470whp on 94 octane)

Don't worry.. though I prefer not to blow my own horn, and talk to much about modifications, I've realized that the efforts I've been making would be better served if I shared the data I gather with everyone. So pics of my setup, plus the other stuff I'm doing will slowly begin to be posted..

 

I only wish I had more sponsorship going on, it would make this project go alot faster, but I don't buy into bling and lots of graphics (a courtesy logo in the windows and that sort of stuff is about all I've been asked to do for most and writing a few articles on products) But I'm very picky about who I deal with, and what products I use.. so you can be sure that the stuff I talk about does what I expect it to. (expenses are mostly out of my own pocket)

 

MalibuJack, thanks for all the info. I am considering options to get rid of the sensor. You will love the GT35R kit. Your car is going to be a monster.

 

it seems to me that reading the air temp on the pressure side would be more accurate than suction side. The suction side reading is not the real temp of the air entering your engine... The pressure side is. Therefore reading on pressure side should be more desireable.....yes??

 

oh and if you look at the APS intake manifold, i think you would be impressed!! I know I am. Throttle body, ime not sure.

 

I saw pictures of the JUN intake manifold and it was huge, if you could mate that up to a nice large throttle body then you could really move some air.

 

My inclination is to agree with you.. However I think ambient air temp is required to accurately calculate density. My guess is the device isn't going to care much anyway and is likely calibrated for the higher pressure side temps anyway. My guess is that since its just a measure of air volume, its actually not going to have much effect on the output frequency anyway...