Actually no. I just sent the tcase becuase i couldnt really tell if it was the rear diff whining or the tcase. Turns out it was the rear diff.

My tcase was damaged as well but not causing the whine. So lemme get this straight? Whatever i run in my transmission also runs the front diff in my tcase? So whats the point of the tcase fluid? And since i run a wavetrac front diff now would i have to run the motul 300 wavetrac recommend in my trans? I'm lost!

 

A non-ACD t-case has 2 fluids pumping through it:

• The front diff inside your t-case is fed fluid from the trans. That is why it is important for you to have the 2 o-rings installed between the t-case and trans when you install it.
• The ring and pinion inside the t-case, uses the fluid you pump directly into the t-case sump.

A common problem is the front diff fails in a factory t-case. This allows the metal from the diff to be pumped into the trans. If you do not flush the trans after installing a new t-case, then the trans will pump metal not only around all of its own parts, but through your new t-case as well.

 

HOw many qtr will i need for the tranny change fluids ??? 3qtr ??

 

Yeah .....you better get that fluid outta there. You were also using the wrong fluid per instructions

 

The trans takes 2.5. Buying 3 quarts will usually cover the trans even if you spill some.

 

Good to know... In my case i will definitely follow your recommendation... Not because you have proven the sience behind it all... But because in my rare case i have a wavetrac diff and wavetrac will void my warranty if its used with shockproof...

Now my next question is how to get that blue goo out of both the tcase and trans

 

What I recommend people do to flush their trans of junk or shockproof is to buy some cheap ATF and fill the trans with that.

ATF is thin and has a lot of detergents. This cleans the trans quickly.

Run the car up to normal operating temp and drive it around the block. Drain it, and refill with ATF again. This time drive it to work and back, but don't race it.

Drain again and fill with Mits fluid or MT90

This is the easiest way that we have found to flush the trans without tearing it down. It seems to work pretty good.

Good luck!

Jack

 

This i will do... I appreciate it.

 

If it looks like there is a lot of metal in there, I can send you a neodymium magnet to stick on the small steel oil pan at the bottom of the trans. That will help catch the rest of anything left over inside the unit so it won't get into anything else.

 

Thanks Jack! I bought 3 quarts of OEM transmission fluid from you. I've been driving for a couple of weeks and love it! It shifts really smooth.

The one advantage that synchromesh has is that it slips into gear better when first starting out in the morning (30*F). But after the OEM fluids warmed up (minute of driving) it shifted great. I've done some high rev shifting and it feels like butter. Synchromesh would grind sometimes at high rev shifting.

 

That's great to hear! Thanks for the positive feedback!

The synchromesh just has way to much friction modifier in it and is way too thin. SM is known to kill bearings, synchros and gears in very short time.

 

How do you feel about Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 or 75W-110 GL5 in the rear diff and xfer case on either the IX or X as an alternative to the Diaqueen 90W LSD? I've always used the Diaqueen, but I'm just curious about this stuff since my friend is a dealer.

Also, for my X 5-speed, I've been using the common Redline cocktail of 2xMTL + 1xMT90, thoughts? Texas temps...hot summers and occasionally in the 20's on a few winter mornings.

Hopefully I never need your services, but if I do you'll be my easy choice

 

Hello! Thanks for posting.

I would stay away from Amsoil. I have a few issues with that fluid:

1. Anyone can easily become a dealer so it seems there are a huge number of them running around promoting the product to make money.
2. We have noticed if you use the oil in a trans which doesn't see much power, it seems to be OK. It's not great, but OK. If it is used in an application with a lot of power, we have noticed the gears get wiped out pretty easily.
3. The fluid just doesn't have the cocktail required for gears which have a very long and heavy contact patch.

It's good quality fluid, but I wouldn't use it in a Mits trans, rear diff, or t-case. Considering the price, you can get far better fluid for the same price or less.

Your redline mix is something we don't like to do as mixing fluids takes away from what each is supposed to accomplish on its own. If the shifts feel OK, you are probably OK, but I would stick with 1 fluid for the trans and not mix them up the next time you do a change.

The best fluid we have found for both daily driving and race applications has surprisingly been the Mitsubishi fluid. We sell it at a large discount HERE. We just can't seem to find another fluid that is so friendly to synchros, bearings and gears like the Mitsu stuff.

I would say if you are happy with how the trans feels, and you are also using the OEM fluid in the t-case and changing it often, I would just stick to it. I don't see anything failing with what you have going on now.

Good luck!

Jack

 

Thank you for the feedback!

 

So redline mt-90 would be more than sufficient since ive already bought it? Or should I pawn it off on someone and buy OEM?