Those temps were in C... yours are in F. Big difference. I've posted my say... going lower in temps is safer and higher you pushing it. I've tested the boundries many times and can tell you at about 840-850 you're on the edge in the lancer.

 

i have the TSI IC kit and my advice make sure you get wideband tuning before you take it out to race or whatever make sur eyou get it on the dyno asap trust me im on my third motor also upgrade your internals other wise youll only be able to run low boost 14lbs max ummm get an IC i found the stock evo IC to be a good match for this kit, and upgrade to a big t28 its worth it ok im done im out

 

ROFLOL...

I love how you say you "low boost 14psi".... that is an insane number for low boost on these internals. Remember, these are not DSMs here, these cars were not built for boost. Most on this site wont see a consistent 14psi in their lives.

 

right.

 

Well, I got it installed... I'll get some pics and some install tips up later. I have a few problems;

1) It is burning some oil (more than it should) oil catch tank may solve the problem.
2) The BOV is a little stiff for the application (used BOV from RX7)
3) It stumbles a little under load (only have 1 O2 sensor at the moment)

I am only boosting 5 psi max on it and I do notice quite a difference. I am not pushing it until I get all of the bumps smoothed out.

 

if you are having trouble with teh rx7 bov, try getting a 2g bov. you can get those for really cheap and you dont have to pay the extra couple bucks to even get a 1g since you are barely boosting any psi.

 

Problems occure just take it slow and get some pics up for assistance...

Shouldn't really burn oil at all... check your seals and make sure that you aren't sending positive pressure into your valve cover/crank case. This could blow it into your combustion. Remember the vlv cover vent needs to go to the pipe before the turbo and the egr tube needs to connect to the manifold. If anything connect a catch can to both and cap off the manifold.

Ensure the BOV is connected to the intake manifold after the TB and that the hose isn't collapsing or getting pinched in any way.

The second O2 sensor missing won't do this... the first one modifies fuel. If you've connected your MAS on the pressure side(after turbo) this could be the issue. Try putting it on the intake side so there isn't any turbulant airflow from the TB closing acting on it. This will make you have to recirc the BOV but VTA slows down the spool time anyway.

GOOD JOB... keep that boost low for sure. Even 5 psi can blow you up so try to go easy until you've got it settled in on the above items. Let a dyno/professional take the boosting risk... that way if it blows they pay for it not you.

Good luck.

 

The turb set up already has the MAS on the intake side of the turbo with the BOV recirculated behind the MAS. The vacum line to the BOV is on the intake manifold in the same line as the FPR. Should I move the source for the vacum hose? I am trying to figure out what causes the stumbling under load, but have had no luck as of yet.

 

What are you using to increase fuel pressure/flow??? Sounds to me like your going lean and feeling the detonation/lug caused by that!

 

I am using the FPR that came with the Turbo. it is boost sensative RRFPR.

 

a 1:1 rising rate alone won't be enough... do you have a bigger pump? Are you running additional injectors/bigger injectors/ or stockers?

 

I am running a wal 255lph pump with stock injectors. plan on going with bigger injectors once I go up to 8 psi.

 

okay... you are detonating. You don't have enough fuel pressure to give you the fuel you require to even run 4 psi on the 1:1 ratio regulator your using.

You have 3 options...

1) Ditch the regulator, put on the stock one, and then put in a 10:1 or 12:1 fmu mounted inline with the stock regulator line that goes back to tank. This will make the fuel pressure rise a lot when boost hits and settle out your fuel.

2) Raise the fuel pressure to about 58-60psi on that 1:1 regulator. This will fix your boost areas a bit(not perfect) but you'll need a piggy to take out the fuel down low as your driveability area will be way overly rich.

3) Put in bigger injectors, probably 470cc's, and use a piggy back to tune them out for driveability and to give you fuel for boost.

Option one is the cheap and easy way out... i suggest that you do that. You can only detonate so much before the pistons will break. You may have weakened them as is and they may break later from boosting. If you've been going easy on it then you should be okay but follow one of these suggestions to get you the fuel you'll need for boost.

Good luck... hope this helps.

 

I just read your post... option 1 was done this afternoon actually! I have a Vortec 12:1 FMU now and it fixed the problem... Running quite rich at times. I only felt the detonation a time or two before I cut the boost, so I know I didn't do much damage if any. Anyway... thanks for all your help Boe!! I hope to get so pics up as soon as I have something other than my Camera phone (IE: friends 2mp digi cam).

 

Cool...