Just wanted to give you guys an idea of what supercharged Lancer's are capable of. This was from way back in December on an older tune that wasn't perfected, but it gives you a good idea of whats going on. Besides headers and of course the SDS kit, the car is stock AFAIK.

Torque was not measured on this run for various reasons, but it was around 220

Like I said, this was on an older tune, with the old fuel system, and I don't believe it was even running the new stuff like the belt tensioner.

But if someone in the New England area with a manual Lancer wishes to step up, I know RIPP would be more than happy to update their kit and get a new tune going, probably pushing 240whp or so (you can tell on the graph near the top it starting running real fat, so it lost power, but there is room to grow).




If you have questions, ask away, but please do not turn this into a TC vs SC thread

 

sweet, why wasn't torque measured??

 

i can't explain this as well as ross or the dyno guys, but i'll give it a shot:

when you hook the wires up to measure the torque, sometimes they come loose cause the car shakes around alot when you hammer it, so you get screwed up readings. also, it sometimes causes the rpms to read falsely. finally, whenever you bounce off the rev limiter it causes really weird torque numbers like 1000 lb/ft and so on


now i don't know how a dyno or how this dyno works, so i can't comment on that, i'm just relaying (and not too well i'm sure) what i was told. but another reason why independent dyno's are crucial to proving a kit, no matter what kit it is

 

I wish it had torque at least and maybe even boost. Looks good though otherwise, but without those points of reference I'm hesitant to say more than that...and I happen to like that kit very much.

 

i think that blazen oz's car. what about ur numbers. u get urs dynoed yet?

 

i know what you mean hobie, no offense to anyone at drt or ripp, but that dyno place isnt' the best. apparently you can't get boost, a/f, or torque cause of the way the dyno is setup (i already explained the torque problem, but they use an independent a/f reader that isnt' connected through the dyno, so no graphable info)

yeah, i believe that is blazen's car, he needs to get an independent dyno

as for me, i plan on getting an independent dyno, so no needs to worry there (might be done at pruven, if i don't run out of time)

yeah, i got a real crappy dyno sheet i uploaded on my thread.



keep in mind my dyno was done while the car was still fubar'd (i mean, REALLY f'd up, it was in the 8's for a/f ratio). i just like the little curly q power curves LOL

now my problems are fixed, i'm hoping for 220whp, but we'll see

 

It's not even that it's crappy, it just gives no point of reference. I don't know if they can even plot pressure vs hp or whatever, but I'd rather see a torque curve that spikes at cutoff than none at all. And even just an idea of what the psi cutoffs are would be fantastic. (i.e. if you took note of what pressure you were at at what RPM and just marked it on the graph in photoshop or something). I know the pressure thing isn't something you normally see on dyno charts, but I know how my car spooled up and I know how the old RRM IC kit spooled up with the T28, so I'm curious as to how it would compare.

 

This sounds like a messed up dyno. At my school, we have a dyno that measures torque and estimates horsepower, and shows the air/fuel ratio. Ours is a chassis dyno.

I have NEVER seen our cars shake, move, or any wires come loose. We put a wire on the coil primary pick up, a gas probe in the exhaust, and NEVER bounce the rev-limiter. In the computer, you enter the vehicle's redline and tire rating. On an Automatic 4-speed, the car is set into direct drive...3rd gear. On a 5-speed manual, the car is set into 4th gear. The car is started up, and brought up to speed, then hammered on, and we stop once the red line is hit in the correct gear. The computer then gives a reading of both Torque and Horsepower. The reason torque is measured and horsepower is only estimated is because torque actually measures engine power.

The air/fuel mixture is also calculated. Anything between 11:1 and 13:1 is considered great for racing, but for every day use, 14.1:1 is Stoichiometric and is the most efficient.

I hope this helps anyone...

 

well, like i said, i don't really know details

but worry not hobie, i plan on getting some vids and plenty of dynos on mine, so you'll be able to see boost curve and hp/tq curve

i haven't ridden in my car yet, but i've been told it spools to 5psi super quick, almost instantly i suppose, but we'll just have to wait and see

 

That's cool. Looking forward to them.

 

We where getting a bad tach readding so it was reading 900lb ft (which we know it didn't have).... so no torque reading this day!

 

1/4 mi times on this thread or will there be a new thread?

 

Hard to go a quarter mile when you're on rollers.

 

nah, sorry, i don't know of any lancer sds with 1/4 times. i hope to have some this fall for the auto sds

 

fkrzo ran a stage 1 15.5 iblieve with stock tires and 100 degrees. i think he dynoed 188whp stock tires but hes a 5spd