Absolutely could not agree more.

 

What a shock, coming from Mr. "My motor sounds like change in a dryer" . . .

 

Tell me about it.

 

with the RRM stage 2 with its added fuel and piggyback it is safe to run 10psi....assuming ur car is up to it.....the RRM stage 1 I/C is safe at 7psi. those are the numbers that RRM puts out.

i do not know what the RIPP SDS can do.

 

its about the same for the RIPP sds kit boost wise. but remember guys, these are pretuned kits, so don't assume you can piece together a custom t3/t4 hybrid kit with less fuel and tuning and hit those boost levels safely.

 

it's all about the tuning for sure... it takes time and patients to get it right or else you end up with a big hunk of junk.

 

thanks for the comments guy's, I am extremly confident in my tunner here so I don't have any doubts that tunning will be a problem.

I gues that the main thing I was looking for in this post is what boost levels people are running more than what is safe for the engine.

therefore I am confident in increasing the boost to 10psi.

thanks again

 

Necessary tuning requirments: A/F contorller, boost controller, A/F guage, boost guage, WBo2? Missing anything?

 

Egt

 

EGT isn't as good as you think. It just helps you estimate your A/F. A good A/F gauge is a million times more important.

 

hmmm... on my earlier talon i noticed the EGT was a valuable tool. The AFR's were around 11:1 accross the pull but i was getting some knock from higher boost levels. The egt climbed right up as the car was pulling timing making cylinder temps rise.

EGT saved me many times from scratching my head... also a long pull creates a lot of heat... the longer you go the more you're afr may read rich but due to intake charge temps your EGT will read high.

It's a great item to have and helps keep things in check... do you need it, guess not, but then why do you need anything really. Just take it to a place have it tuned and forget about everything right? Early production cars just had boost gauges and that's all. See my point?

 

Yeah. It's not necessary if you're planning to do a dyno tune. But when doing road tuning, egt is a must. Also, you're right about the wideband.

 

Yeah, but . . .

EGT is not totally accurate. Lean and rich show certain general EGTs for a given application. But once to get to points of "really rich" and "really lean," the EGTs go the opposite way that you'd expect. So at that point, you start working against yourself because you think the EGT is telling you one thing, but it's actually the opposite.

 

thats why i have both....i the top of 4th gear i just hit 800 cel....witch is perfrect.

 

I would say you may need something beyond a simple a/f controller, ie something that can pull timing up top (emanage and the like). Sure, something like a SAFC may do, but the emanage will open so many "tuning" doors for you and give you more safety and flexibility