I have 2 bov's. jdm mr bov and bosch 110.

What's your vacuum is showing at idle?

 

my idle is is usually around 18-21 when i first start the car

 

So my -.75 tells you what? Do I have a vacuum leak? Too much vacuum?

Someone please help. I cannot go to the dyno until I fix this.

 

My idle is at 1500 rpm because I have never calibrated my tps with emanage. You think that could cause the leaking?

 

Technically you have a vacuum leak cause your BOV is opening at idle. As stated, your car should idle between -18 and -22 or so. Anything less is a vacuum leak. I suggest you re-circulate your BOV to make this much easier on yourself since the Lancer uses a MAF, not MAP sensor with ECU calibrations. Also, be careful with using the MR BOV. Since you're only going to be running a lower PSI than what it was made for you might be increasing your chances of compressor surge with a BOV that has a spring too stiff for the setup.

 

But my boost timer shows in .XX, not -18 or -20. It's -.75

But I have vaccum leak than why it's opening my bov?

Also could my idle cause my problem?

I hear from other people that mitsubishi bov are open lightly at idle? Is that true?

 

That's one other aspect you need to consider. BOV's are meant to vent into the atmosphere while recirc valves are not. The MR bypass valve is a recirc valve. You need a stiffer spring in your BOV or to adjust the spring pressure to harder to prevent it from opening at too low a pressure. You should be running the valve as a recirc valve anyway to get the most performance out of your setup. I know you probably want that cool "whoosh" sound so you can let everyone know you have a turbo on your car. I have my Forge diverter valve recirculating into my intake on my setup and you can still clearly hear the valve going off from outside the car while shifting gears.

 

Id second most of this.

1) change out your spring or adjust it to a stiffer setting on your BOV (if it's adjustable)

2) recirculate the BOV! MAF's don't generally work when you dump the excess boost into the atmoshphere. It throws off all the readings of the MAF and will cause a hesitation, stall of the vehicle, high RPM's, and just poor drivability. It will drive fine untill the first time you shift...then it will all go down hill or untill you restart the car again if it stalled.

3) If you are supposed to calibrate your TPS with the Emange , do it! That could cause your high ilde too...or a vac leak somewhere. Check all your connections.

Does your car idle high at 1500rpm right away at start up? or is this after you drive or hit the gas? If it's at start up, you deffenetly have a vac leak or maybe your coil pack, plugs or wires are no good anymore...i know thats a long shot, but it happened to me before with one of my other cars...the high idle was fixed as soon as i fixed the vac leak and changed the spark plugs, wires and disstributor.

Change your BOV too. The second one you bought, was it used or new?

 

Both are used bov that never leaked.

I have been told on mirage forums to fix my tps then see if the bov is leaking.
Where should I look for vacuum leak? All over the IM?

Emanage connections are all fine because it shows constant green light which mean no errors.

I will recirc the bov just have to weld the nipple on my intake pipe.

I was also thinking about putting the mas before the bov!!!

 

you mean your bov was never recirculated?

did your car run at all?

 

What kind of valve? Also, do you realize that if it was an issue with a poor vacuum reference that the leak will worsen if you fix it? Vacuum opens your valve, more vacuum will open it more...

Most recirc valves are designed to open at idle, they are also meant to plumb back into the intake tract after the MAF to keep the fueling in check. It sounds like you are trying to fix something that isn't broken, just installed incorrectly.

 

I actually Start my car again and there is almost no air coming out.

The -18 or -20, is that in psi? I have to make sure what my blitz tt is showing. Maybe I do not have a leak.

Boost is shown in hkPa.

 

So vacuum leak makes a bov leak or no?

 

take pix of your gauge on idle.

ya -18 -20 is psi

 

I'm using blitz tt as my gauge. So I have about -11-12psi vacuum. Not good.

Where do I start?