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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:29 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by drucea
OK, I've decided with a premade manifold, the turbo won't fit right with the space issues. I'm going to a shop sometime to check prices on a custom manifold. I also have another question. I know that this turbo spools early, and I also do a lot of very long drives, like 3 hours long, or 1.5 hours to houston and back. I'd like to be able to save on gas here, but I cruise around 80mph and the tach is around 3g's. With a turbo, this cruising will just be draining gas because I will be boosting at 3000rpms. So does anyone kow of an electric actuator thing I can use to attach to the internal wastegate arm so that when I flip a switch, the internal wastegate opens and the boost drops, in theory, not causing the car to add as much fuel. Then if I want to go fast, I can flip the switch again and the internal gate closes and boost builds again, then using the external wastegate.
You won't be in boost on the highway at 3000rpm. The throttle will not be open enough to build boost while cruising. You'll actually be getting better gas mileage because the spent exhaust gases will be spinning the turbo and sending more air into your engine with less effort from the engine.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #47  
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So even if I'm cruising at 3000, or even 4000 rpms, the car won't be adding more fuel for boost? That makes it easier then and I can just weld the internal gate arm closed. Thanks
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:43 PM
  #48  
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If you're just cruising, you should be in closed loop mapping meaning the car will simply be trying to achieve lamba (I believe). If I trust lightly press on the gas pedal, I can go right up to redline without hitting boost. The reason is because the car isn't under enough load.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:57 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by ambystom01
If you're just cruising, you should be in closed loop mapping meaning the car will simply be trying to achieve lamba (I believe). If I trust lightly press on the gas pedal, I can go right up to redline without hitting boost. The reason is because the car isn't under enough load.
Exactly what amby said. It's rare that I'm in boost while I'm driving. I keeps tabs on my boost gauge and put the engine under enough load to not cross from vacuum into boost. And the pull from the turbo is still there under acceleration and more fuel is being used, but not as much as when you are boosting.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 11:43 PM
  #50  
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so what point have you gotten to by now?
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 09:52 AM
  #51  
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I've put it on hold because of money. The place I went to get a quote on a custom manifold told me to expect around $1000-$1200 so I told them they were ridiculous. As long as my 14b will bolt up to the RRM turbo manifold for the 16g I will prolly just get that for $400.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #52  
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I paid $1000 for my ram horn, downpipe and wastegate dump tube. Before I found this fab guy I also got quotes around $1000-1200 for a ram horn manifold. Shop around and talk to car guys and see if they know anyone that makes manifolds on the side or in their garage. Or find out shops that have just recently opened and don't have to inflate their prices because they are trying to establish a loyal customer base.

Originally Posted by drucea
I've put it on hold because of money. The place I went to get a quote on a custom manifold told me to expect around $1000-$1200 so I told them they were ridiculous. As long as my 14b will bolt up to the RRM turbo manifold for the 16g I will prolly just get that for $400.
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Old Sep 9, 2008 | 10:17 PM
  #53  
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I got my manifold from rrm for $400.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 09:28 AM
  #54  
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Yeah, I didn't even want a ram horn style because I knew it'd be expensive. I'll just get RRMs cause I don't have time to drive to Houston. At least I know RRMs will fit right.
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 10:39 AM
  #55  
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yeah and you get all that support from RRM if things go wrong
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #56  
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exactly. So on my next paycheck or so I'll get that. I'm buying a tial WG from a member here. Prolly a fuel pump from a member here. Then I'll be ready to set it all up to have piping made.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 10:58 PM
  #57  
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sounds like a plan. I used some evo piping for my setup.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 06:10 PM
  #58  
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Hey I just bought a 14b turbo today and it looks like we are both going to have the same setup...
So far I just have the 14b and Evo VIII fmic. Can you make a list for me on what else I would need to finish my setup? Especially the manifold and the whole wastegate thing.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by doctorjon
yeah and you get all that support from RRM if things go wrong
cant go wrong with a rrm kit.
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Old Oct 5, 2008 | 06:44 PM
  #60  
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Do you want parts in general, or specifics? Like just a turbo manifold, or RRM manifold? Here's a general parts list that I plan on starting off with:
14b Turbo
Oil Feed and Return Lines
Tap Oil Pan for Return
Water Feed and Return Lines and Banjo Fittings
RRM Turbo Manifold
Tial 38mm Wastegate (lowest spring I can get)
Intercooler
2 Slim Fans (as big as you can fit without getting in the way)
DSM Blowoff Valve
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Vortech 12:1 FMU
02-03 Lancer Intake Manifold
02-03 Lancer Fuel Rail w/ Return Line
02-03 Lancer Fuel Pump Assembly (or just add a nozzle on the 04+ assembly for a return)
Spark Plugs (can't remember the NGK number that was recommended, but I'll look that up)
Custom Piping from Turbo to Intercooler, Intercooler to Throttle Body, Turbo to exhaust, and Wastegate to exhaust

I think that's everything. I also plan on buying an RRM turbo piggyback since my setup (aside from the turbo) will be pretty identical to their setup. Then from there I can tune on my own or at a shop and upgrade parts as I get more money.

Last edited by drucea; Oct 6, 2008 at 02:58 PM.
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