most drill/tapp hole in oil pan..
what about drill and weld on a bung with the right tapp on it already? (alot of my honda buddies do that because its, "alot " strong then the weak very thin oil pan metal)

is this a yes or no? (would this be better to do... just a little "more difficult" because of having to weld it on)

o.. reason why im asking.. im already test fitting everything (doing it all myself. with help with 1 or 2 friends making sure im not doing it 100% wrong)

want to make everything as strong as possible..

 

i recommend welding it but it seems most lancer people just teflon tape theirs

 

Yeah welding would be a lot better actually, but most people don't want to pay or go through the trouble of welding it. Tapping is a little easier and free.

 

does the bung need to go inside the oil pan? or just to the pan, cuz ive seen alot of the tapped oil pans that actually have almost like a spicket thats sticks into the pan about an inch or so.. (not needed right?)

 

mine is like the spicket. I drilled and tapped the pan, but that didn't seem to hold. so I went and bought an O-ring and a nut that fit the end of my oil return fitting, Teflon taped my fitting, threaded the fitting through, placed the o-ring on, and bolted down the fitting to the pan. No leaks so far!

 

So that is no welds right? Just used a nut on the inside of the pan to add extra strength to the original tap? That would work too as long as you seal it good.

 

Yea I thought about doing that too... I have found a shop here that will tap the pan and weld the bung onto it for $30 so I think I'll just get it welded...

 

ya. there all good ideas, but i think im gunna go with strength over just creativity... it wont go into the pan. but a welded bung is the best solution, just have to seal it up and u shouldnt have any issues, really strong.

ordered my new oil pan today (cuz mines damaged, no point in drilling and tappin a dented pan.) when i get it in i have 4 parts to be welded up. and i should be running by the end of the month.

fitting up my intercooling piping on sunday. and test fitting everything the following sunday (only day i have free) kinda excited now.. only gunna push 3.5 lbs off wg till i get new pistons/rods..

should i be ok without getting it tuned? (only pushing 3.5 lbs, and trying to stay out of boost as much as possible.) figured at worst i would jsut have real trashy gas mileage. lol

 

You do realize that the upper oil pan is what gets tapped for the return line, right? I'm assuming you're referring to the lower oil pan getting dented and needing to be replaced because the upper is cast aluminum and would be very difficult to dent.

 

Yeah you want the return hole as high up as possible so it oesn't get backed up since it's only gravity returning it, not a pump.
And yeah as long as you get a bigger fuel pump (walbro 255lph is a good one) you'll be fine on low boost with no tune. I'd suggest a wideband sensor just to be sure you're ok.

 

nah really? im not stupid. im buying it for a few reasons
1 i dont want to use a already damaged oil pan to modify
2 its dented really bad, (would take a pic of it, but i dont seem to own a camera that would show it really well) and yes it is only on the lower pan.
3 its a spare incase it gets messed up, also i can do everythign in stages and just put it all on together when its all right (hence custom kit) have to keep it running as long as possible since it is my dd.

would do it like my honda, and just park it for a few weeks while its all ripped apart, but i would rather drive this daily untill its turbod..

im doing everything myself, so its taking a while.

fittin up the intercooler and all the piping sunday (i think).. and taking out what i need to modify(leaving on the lower piping and intercool). have all my tools ready to go, and a pipe cutter to. and i stil have to get the flange welded on to the upper pipe for my greddy rs bov..


wasnt trying to be a jerk either senate by what i said in responce.. so dont take it the wrong way.

 

One thing I would do is make sure you clean off the oil pan real good of the old RTV. I just half a$$ed scraped mine off and now it's got a minor leak around the seals. So I'll have to redo all that with the next oil change.

 

Ouch! Sorry to hear that bro. Yeah, make sure you take a razor blade to that thing. Try that nut trick, that should hold it on there but I only tapped mine and its holding strong. *knocks on wood*

Have fun taking that oil pan off...again

 

it won't be as bad this time around. I'ma take a wire wheel to the crappy old rtv to make sure it's nice and clean and make sure i got a good layer of new rtv

 

How do you take the upper oil pan part off? I tried doing that on my friends when we did his turbo and theres a brace with a motor mount on it covering up one of the bolts. So we removed the lower pan and tapped it like that.