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first E85 turbo lancer?

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Old May 7, 2009 | 10:26 PM
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first E85 turbo lancer?

Just curious if anyone else is running E85.

I've had it for more than a week now and its awesome.
Its cheaper than the $6.50 per gallon 100 octane where E85 is about $2.35 per gallon and is about 105 octane.
But of course the characteristics of E85 seem to make more power overall.
The downside is the MPG (you can watch the gas needle drop ) and starting the car up.
Overall the car feels great, just cruising around it feels more torquey and during cold starts I dont hear the usual rod knock or piston slap until it warms up.

Im using Deatschwerks 750cc injectors and boosting 14 PSI on stock internals.
I know anything past 14 PSI is not good on the rods, but does this fall under E85 also? I really want to turn the boost up more
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Old May 7, 2009 | 11:45 PM
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are you using a piggy back system or an ems.. You physically can't run a lancer 4g94 on 14psi with stock internals. The pistons and rods will only hold 10psi at most on a really good tune. I have to call this one a flop
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Old May 8, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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Mmmmm how much boost can the 4g94 take on stock internals?
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Old May 8, 2009 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Chameleonzero
are you using a piggy back system or an ems.. You physically can't run a lancer 4g94 on 14psi with stock internals. The pistons and rods will only hold 10psi at most on a really good tune. I have to call this one a flop
Im using ecuflash.

On 91 pump, my tune is set at 10 PSI and pushed it up to 12 PSI. I've been running that for how long now.


Originally Posted by D420mac
Mmmmm how much boost can the 4g94 take on stock internals?
A few others are also running 10-12 PSI daily with no problems, while others have blown their motors running 5-7 PSI.

From what RPW recommends, 14 PSI is max that the rods can handle.
Would it matter with E85?
Right now I have my AFR at 12.0 and increased the timing, but I stopped increasing it because I dont think I am making any more power and it still doesnt knock
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Old May 8, 2009 | 06:59 AM
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I saw the many posts, vs the small amount of posts.
I was just interested to read what you guy's had to say.

I have no experience with the 4g64, I've got a 4G63 and 4b11

But yeah boost is good, Just remember pushing it your asking for something to break. Just save your money just in case it blows, and crank it up to 14lbs. I'm not sure how E-85 will help you, I don't think it's a heat power issue. It's going to be too much cylinder preassure for the stock connecting rods to compress thus breaking them.
Where as the race fuel/ E-85 allows you to advance timing and crank up boost because of it's octane properties, it can handle higher pressures before it'll detonate allowing higher boost.
Bottom line if your rods can't handle the boost pressure it doesn't matter what fuel your running.

I'm not an expert so don't quote me that's the way I understand it.

Last edited by D420mac; May 8, 2009 at 07:04 AM.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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I hate how everyone is mindset that the 4G94 can only take 10psi or 12psi or 14psi at most. It's not a matter of X psi or Y psi, its a matter of cylinder pressure, engine power and detonation. RPW states that the 4G94 can withstand 14psi, but that is only with THEIR kit. On an RRM kit or a custom kit with a different turbo and setup, that number will vary. Bottom line is that around 230-240hp your rods are like toothpicks on the verge of snapping. Whether its on 10psi or 14psi to obtain that power, it does not matter. And without a proper tune, anything over 200hp might as well be 240hp in terms of engine reliability.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 09:17 AM
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Nice move up to the E85. Congrats!

I know zip about the 4G94, but I think the crtical aspect of turbo engine life is in the tune. Detonation is the real enemy, not boost. Are the 4G94's rods and pistons cast?

Do you have a knock sensor? Do you have the CEL knock light patch? Not sure if that works on base Lancer or not. Very nice mode if you can get it.

Do you have an on-board wideband with a gauge, or dial, or read-out?

Boost is your friend. Say yes to boost; say not to detonation.

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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by senate6268
I hate how everyone is mindset that the 4G94 can only take 10psi or 12psi or 14psi at most. It's not a matter of X psi or Y psi, its a matter of cylinder pressure, engine power and detonation. RPW states that the 4G94 can withstand 14psi, but that is only with THEIR kit. On an RRM kit or a custom kit with a different turbo and setup, that number will vary. Bottom line is that around 230-240hp your rods are like toothpicks on the verge of snapping. Whether its on 10psi or 14psi to obtain that power, it does not matter. And without a proper tune, anything over 200hp might as well be 240hp in terms of engine reliability.
very well put. Its all based on the turbo used. If you are using a small turbo that makes a good deal of tq down low, you will snap a rod real fast. Use a larger turbo like a 50trim, you will prolong the engines life. However, also take into account that fatigue will build and the rods will snap eventually. It may be 100 miles, it may be 10,000 miles
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by senate6268
I hate how everyone is mindset that the 4G94 can only take 10psi or 12psi or 14psi at most. It's not a matter of X psi or Y psi, its a matter of cylinder pressure, engine power and detonation. RPW states that the 4G94 can withstand 14psi, but that is only with THEIR kit. On an RRM kit or a custom kit with a different turbo and setup, that number will vary. Bottom line is that around 230-240hp your rods are like toothpicks on the verge of snapping. Whether its on 10psi or 14psi to obtain that power, it does not matter. And without a proper tune, anything over 200hp might as well be 240hp in terms of engine reliability.
so the timing makes the difference correct?
higher timing will create higher cylinder pressures?


Originally Posted by Jim in Tucson
Nice move up to the E85. Congrats!

I know zip about the 4G94, but I think the crtical aspect of turbo engine life is in the tune. Detonation is the real enemy, not boost. Are the 4G94's rods and pistons cast?

Do you have a knock sensor? Do you have the CEL knock light patch? Not sure if that works on base Lancer or not. Very nice mode if you can get it.

Do you have an on-board wideband with a gauge, or dial, or read-out?

Boost is your friend. Say yes to boost; say not to detonation.

Thanks! I love E85.
The first thing I noticed when I started the car was it didnt have that catless smell anymore
It smells more like vodka

I am using a zeitronix wideband along with mitsulogger. The current tune I have right now is free of knock, and I've done multiple pulls.
I dont think we have that luxury of the CEL knock light patch, it would be great though.


I've read that it is easy to pass MBT with E85 at 12 AFR. So I've stopped increasing timing because it never shows that it knocks. At 14 PSI with a garrett t28 Im running 4* at peak timing and 16* by redline.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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on E85 105 Octane tuners, are getting 35 psi plus without knock on the 4g63, and 40+ on built engines. I highly doubt the 4g94 will handle that much boost. So to say you can boost as much as you like without knock is not accurate to say!

You can increase the boost, with e85, Q16 or 94 and meth extremely high without knock/detonation all the way up to where the piston rods snap "like tooth picks"

That's extremely simple to understand Boost is not every engines friend, it has to be built to handle it. The internals must be strong enough, period!
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Old May 8, 2009 | 12:20 PM
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keep in mind that a set of rods and pistons are cheaper than a new engine. Build the engine right, turn the psi to 20 and keep adding timing and have yourself a fast as turbo lancer.

BTW, E85 here is all of $1.80 last time i check a couple weeks ago (87oct was $1.85). 87oct is now about $2 so it still should be about $2. Did the math and its about the same cost overall to run e85 as 93oct, just need more corn juice
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Old May 8, 2009 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cincy
keep in mind that a set of rods and pistons are cheaper than a new engine.
Lies!!!

I've paid under $400 for each of the 3 engines I've bought over the past 3 years....
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Old May 8, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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I bet just about everyone in the section will pay more and have to pay someone to install the new motor. Why not do it right the first time and not have to worry about blowing **** up? Not to mention reap the power rewards.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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I have pauter rods, but I still need pistons and arp head studs before I tear the motor apart and install everything else that's been sitting around for months

I'll get there one step at a time.
But I'm curious to see how much power I'm making now.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 4g94T
I have pauter rods, but I still need pistons and arp head studs before I tear the motor apart and install everything else that's been sitting around for months

I'll get there one step at a time.
But I'm curious to see how much power I'm making now.
The stock rods are stronger than the stock pistons, but only by a hair. The upper ring land of the stock 4G94 piston is tiny compared to other motors. If one of your pistons shatters it may end up taking a rod or two with it. I strongly recommend turning down the boost until you get a chance to have the pistons and studs installed. Just my 2 cents.
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