I have been trying to find the difference between the turbos 16G big and small, T-4, T-28, i know there are a couple more set ups im missing. But what I am trying to figure out is which way to go, the reason i hear each one has a good power 16G being the best, but what about there appliances ? drag, strip, street, lil extra power. What are the differences between theses turbos, i know it has to do with what i want to do, but i like to be a little techinally at times and understand what im getting myself into here.

 

didnt read your whole paragraph.. i got bored after the first sentence..

t28 = small. and great for spooling boost at very low rpms.(16g would be in this catagory)
t3 (including t3/t4 hybrids) = medium frame.. (about as big as u can realistically use on our cars, drastically slower spool times, wont hit max boost till 4-5k rpms)
t4 = large frame.. to big for us on the street.. (possibly drag only.. but spool time would be in the upper 1k rpms..)


start small, and build over time..

 

How about you tell us what your goals are or how you want to purpose your Lancer and we can give you ideas in the right direction.

 

I rather have a smaller turbo for the lancer that you can actually spool up fast and use more of its boost than putting something bigger that you can't even full bost and would give you worse spool up. I would take the small 16 G or the T28 for the Lancer.


Carlos

 

Well i would say, my car is a daily driver for school and work. But also would like to have that extra kick for the track, and possible drag.

 

Ok. Well without a built motor you'll be good with a T28 or a 16G6 turbo from an Evo at 10-12psi and have around 210-230whp. Lancers are pretty cookie-cutter with their turbo setups on stock internals and limited by these same weak internals.

 

Well this is why im asking what set up are good with each type of turbo, my plan is to to build the engine first internals such as forged pistons and rods, due to the fact all i hear is if you dont there no real point becuase you are a risk of damage. Even tho i know you can run at a low psi, i dont want to take that risk. I want to be smart about it.

 

Ok, well then what kind of HP #'s are you looking for? That will decide what turbo you will need. Without a built head, your redline is 6000rpm. And with a built head its only like 7000rpm. What type of engine management will you be using? What size injectors do you want to run? What kind of clutch will you be using? What octane are you going to be using (93, e85, c16)?

You need to answer all of these questions before deciding on the turbo because the turbo you choose will be bound be these factors for good spool and max power.

 

Well as far as numbers wanna try and get some good ones, but a factor in it is my lancer is a auto, so i know that kills it. My plans are this, forged pistons and rods , injectors 440cc from wrx, and gas trying to stay normal 93, ecu im still looking into i may just start to play with ecuflash for now if not piggyback.

 

Well your auto tranny will only hold to about 250whp, WRX injectors are good for about 330whp and a piggyback is NOT an option for tuning for what you want to do.

 

Well if 250whp is all ill be able to push out of the auto thats good enough for me, But since thats the case, would it be worth putting in forged parts, or just going with a set up that will push it to 250whp be ok without it ? And if piggy is not then ecuflash be the best bet or something else ?

 

Why not ignore the numbers altogether and just build a car you're happy with? If you get a turbo like the 16G, it gives you plenty of room to move. If you're happy with the feel from 10 PSI on stock internals, stick with that. If you feel you want more, you can build the motor and raise the boost. If you want 250 WHP, you're going to need forged internals and possibly a ported and polished head as well. The big issue of course is that 250 WHP is an arbitrary number, it's completely meaningless without context, ie. a baseline number. Some people only hit 130 WHP with a turbo setup on some dynos while on the dyno down the road, they magically put down 180 WHP.

 

+1. On stock internals and a 16G6 you'll be able to run 11-12psi at most and get a respectable 230whp or so. Anything past that and you'll need forged internals and possibly a manual trans swap to obtain your 250whp mark. But after doing that you might as well max out the 16G6 at 20-21psi and top 300whp.

This is why most members here have used this turbo. They are easily found used from Evo owners and have great potential to spare to get up to 300whp on the right motor.

 

I agree I am jsut starting building my kit, 16g turbo, 02 housing, 440cc injectors, evo9FMIC +piping, New Walbro 255lph, Total thus far: $518 Not too bad if you ask me

 

Some more info on the topic