*400 whp / 400 wtq!!!*
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
From: boostville
This is done on E85 of course, not bad for $2.70 per gallon.
Boost was at ~17 PSI on a T28.
Timing is untuned at the moment.
AFR is too rich at peak torque (need to lean it out) and tapers to 12.5 AFR and spikes to 13.X (that's where the problem is)
The base pull was at 5 PSI.
If you've seen my old setup on E85 at 14 PSI I made around ~220whp and ~275wtq
but the power curve was horrible. It peaked too early and dropped way too quickly.
I feel 400+ whp and trq is just around the corner.
Boost was at ~17 PSI on a T28.
Timing is untuned at the moment.
AFR is too rich at peak torque (need to lean it out) and tapers to 12.5 AFR and spikes to 13.X (that's where the problem is)
The base pull was at 5 PSI.
If you've seen my old setup on E85 at 14 PSI I made around ~220whp and ~275wtq
but the power curve was horrible. It peaked too early and dropped way too quickly.
I feel 400+ whp and trq is just around the corner.
You really think swapping to a octane rating just over 100 and 3 more psi are really giving you an increase of 140whp? Come on now... A t28 wont make 400whp, a larger 2871r wont come close to 400whp without way more psi to max it out on a great flowing motor
Get on a REAL dyno and see
Last edited by cincy; Apr 7, 2010 at 08:15 PM.
This is a joke right?
You really think swapping to a octane rating just over 100 and 3 more psi are really giving you an increase of 140whp? Come on now... A t28 wont make 400whp, a larger 2871r wont come close to 400whp without way more psi to max it out on a great flowing motor
Get on a REAL dyno and see
You really think swapping to a octane rating just over 100 and 3 more psi are really giving you an increase of 140whp? Come on now... A t28 wont make 400whp, a larger 2871r wont come close to 400whp without way more psi to max it out on a great flowing motor
Get on a REAL dyno and see
Evo guys are making 500whp (600whp on high compression) on e85 with the stock 16g.
I dont see how the bigt28 wouldnt be able to touch 400whp especially with e85.
On my previous setup (before the build) everything was stock except for fueling and exhaust. Thats why theres such a large jump in power.
Especially now with the 10.5:1 CR.
As with VDR, its consistent as long as you use the same road and it has different correction factors on dynos to use (ie. buschur, GST, etc). The gear ratios are inputed, tire size, drag coefficient, frontal area, vehicle weight, occupant weight.
Its not accurate by +/- 1, but its close. Others have tested it.
If I cant tune this, it'll be properly dyno tuned by a professional.
Engine:
- Wiseco 10.5:1 CR Pistons
- Pauter Rods + ARP bolts
- RRM Ported / Polished head
- ARP head studs
- Fidanza Cam Gear
- RPW 272 Stage 4 turbo camshaft
- RPW Valve Springs
- RPW Throttle Body
- Ported Intake Manifold / Machined TB side
- Tial 38mm EWG
- Garrett bigT28
- RRM Manifold
- RRM Intercooler + piping
- RRM Lightweight Pulley
- Buschur Racing Catback
- RRM Testpipe
- K&N Intake Cone
- Hallman Boost Controller
- APS Dual Vent BOV
- EVO IX MAF sensor
Fuel:
- Deatschwerks 750cc Injectors
- Walbro 255
- Aeromotive FPR
- Bored fuel rail
- E85
Tuning:
- Stock ECU
- ECUflash
- Mitsulogger
- Zeitronix Wideband
- Zeitronix ZR-2
- STRI boost gauge
- STRI oil pressure gauge
- STRI EGT (not connected)
- VDR
I think thats all of it.
Last edited by 4g94T; Apr 21, 2010 at 11:06 PM.
I ordered the 1 bar tial spring and it should be coming in tonight.
I currently have the .4 bar spring and I read in other forums that you should NOT go over double the wastegate pressure via MBC.
I currently have the .4 bar spring and I read in other forums that you should NOT go over double the wastegate pressure via MBC.
Haven't driven it since last week, but Im going to raise it until any more significant power is being made.
if something breaks during the tuning process,
then it'll be down for a while since I am trying to pay off my card and I dont want to transfer to a university while paying bills.
I froze my credit card so I cant make any future transactions. Its the only way to stop from using it
Final tuning will be done on a dyno (unknown date atm),
it'll be easier to tune MBT due to the consistent numbers
if something breaks during the tuning process,
then it'll be down for a while since I am trying to pay off my card and I dont want to transfer to a university while paying bills.
I froze my credit card so I cant make any future transactions. Its the only way to stop from using it
Final tuning will be done on a dyno (unknown date atm),
it'll be easier to tune MBT due to the consistent numbers
wow so you increased compression, for boost. thats interesting i dont think ive seen somebody do that,
so what would be better, lower compression and more boost,
or higher compression with less boost.
so what would be better, lower compression and more boost,
or higher compression with less boost.
higher compression and higher boost makes real power, but I heard it sucks tuning it because its so hard, apparently its easier to tune with lower compression
You can get away with high compression and high boost with the right fuel. People have been saying I'll lift my head off even with arp head studs, but it's all on timing.
I wouldn't do it on regular pump gas though.
High compression feels awesome when driving in the city (stop and go). I don't have to spool the turbo just to keep up with traffic.
I wish I can get it properly tuned with the tuners here that tune e85, but I think I'm done.
I have an s2000 to play with now =]
I wouldn't do it on regular pump gas though.
High compression feels awesome when driving in the city (stop and go). I don't have to spool the turbo just to keep up with traffic.
I wish I can get it properly tuned with the tuners here that tune e85, but I think I'm done.
I have an s2000 to play with now =]
s2k is much nicer choice
Last edited by Demon_ni2; Aug 18, 2010 at 08:12 PM.