Quick background on how I got here. Will help members willing to help understand what level of building motors I have.
This OZ is the first "import" car I have ever owned. Prior to buying this car I have driven (daily driven) 5.0 and 4.6L Mustangs and my beloved but never forgotten 35th anniversary Z28 n2002 LS1 350 small block

In beween all of this I have helped in multiple drag car builds here and there along with building my daily drivers. I found most of my time with those cars were expensive aftermarket bolt ons and a lot of "wrench time". To make the long a bit shorter I bought the oz roughly 2 years ago from a member who (unknown at the time) graduating from NTI. Simply put I went from 380ish HP to the lancer's midley moddified over stock 120hp crank (mig ost is listed in signature). My brother in law has always been a fan of drifiting and import cars. The purchase of the oz was INITIALLY to get bettter than 11mpg than a camaro. That was shortly thrown to the wind as working and tinkering with my daily drivers is a passion of mine. I work in health care but have become a decent at best, shade tree mechanic which is my passion.

I thought surely someone has put a turbo on one of these cars..google ensued...hello 03lances thread and evolutionm!! Which has lead to reading steven's thred, ryancb, jakemieser, etc.

My philosophy on this build is the more simple the bettter. When something goes wrong I have less trouble shooting. I have to thank beautifulpunk (Chase) for convincing me I could even begin to turbo a car (as all previous were N/A). I knew nothing (and still feel the same essentially) prior to meeting Chase. Yes the many threads I have read along these lines still at times seem completely baffling (I primarily am discussing tuning here).

Bottom line is I want to run a SD setup on my 2003 OZ. It took about 8 months to piece together a part list and do have my regrets along the way but its the here and now. To simply put this my plan to BUILD this setup seems fairly simple (I have reasearched but the confusion of EVO to G94 tuning via 1.3U tactrix is either rediculously complex or I actually do have the grasp).

I have a evo 8 turbo (mild shaft play) (for space saving reasons this turbo has already been moddified and shaved where needed (Thank you again Chase and Motorsports Engineering). Weld the flapper door shut thus eliminating the internal wg (and removing the WGA). To replace this I have the...
-Speedcorps Manifold...which where the EGT sensor would go I plan to weld a external WG with 4,5,6,8,9,10psi from variable and adjustable springs. Another reason for going SD is for atmospheric BOV. Why? Because I eff-N want to!
-I have a evo 9 o2 housing with associated downpipe. (from what I can tell all that I need to do is cut the flange to the end of the dp and rotate it thus matching my current setup (4-2-1 with 1 cat to magnaflow) and should bolt up nicely (which ill certainly hit a road block before hand)
-my Intercooler is from a 240sx and has the straight through core and fitment wise seems simple.
-Have the LICP from a evo 9 with random J-pipe (evo x I believe..which is a longer story). and wide assortment of 45 degree couplers and plenty of T-Bolts . I think I also have a UICP from a old RRM kit. I honestly have no idea where the source of this is from (the pipe with the BOV fitting along with a 2'' I.D. 90 degree IC pipe for something ) Will post pictures very soon to simplify this but it is all on my personal profile. Note**I intend to make a nipple on the J-pipe and run a vac line to the external WG for obvious reason.
-AEM Wideband UEGO
-Possibly a glowshift boost gauge (Im piicky simply because I want to be able to see it at night and it is in increments of 5psi and not 10psi mainly because my intent is to tune myself with local shops help and hopefully some members who have been through this and have given fantastic advise (Im sure you know who you are).
-STOCK INJECTORS AND STOCK FP!!! Here is where I am stuck. From my understanding I can run 7psi with stock injectors and when I decide to get larger injectors (440's,dsm450's or stealth 390's) Ill be able to learn on stock injectors and tune accordingly when I go with aforementioned injectors. Will go with a Walbro 255 upon upgrade. I have re-read the stickys to this thread regarding this and still do not understand the scaling much less is standalone being absolutley needed?

I was under the impression that WITH MY TACTRIX I would be able to alter such maps like my high oct fuel map while doing a bit of work to the low oct map as "safety net" so to speak. This is where I am lost as everyone says I need a standalone or piggy back to alter such maps? WTF!?

Secondly, I fall second guessing again with the need of a MAF sensor from a evo 8/9. Is this not eliminated through the parent and sibling XML?! Heres where I starut essentially the guess work. Do I run Tephra V7 for SD but dial it down?? By dial down I mean setting extrnal WG to 6 psi while attempting to achieve 5 psi safely and corrrectly as this leaves a bit of safe catching and proper datalogging?

Yes I do intend on installing ARP head studs but It came time to start this thread instead of hi-jackng others. I plan to start installing slimfans, AEM, Boost gauge, intercooler etc on Wednesday of next week as I took those extra 3 days off during the week because...well would you not take time off work to build your car?

Sorry for the novel I have bestowed on anyojne who got this far. Reason being that to answer many questions that anyone may have and to create question I need to explore or examine further. Pics coming soon!

DAMN IM EXCITED!

Im here to LEARN AND LISTEN so thanks in advance for help I hope will find its way to ths thread.

 

Ecuflash eliminates the need for a piggyback. It will tune everything needed: timing, fuel maps, injector scaling, injector pulse width, etc. IT DOES EVERYTHING The evo MAF is easier to tune with, flows better, and eliminates any other problems when going boosted. The sites search does suck so if you need to search something just add "evolutionm.net" to it. Good luck with the build Don't leave us in the dark and take a **** load of pics. We're here if you need us.

 

finally a new one!!! welcome to the club

 

Haha it had to be done! Was only doing my duty!

 

Iv heard quite a bit about (and read about) your build man. Between you and me...forge the internals and out run (Cough) you know who to rediculous nymber. Yea man I have been searhching for years now it is more fine tuning that searrching. and Just since you asked here come some pictures.

After I steal the old lady's camera

 

Basic hardware.. I have External WG shipping Monday which Ill weld to the EGT valve above.

Wondering if I need to shorten J-Pipe but definatley have to put a nipple on it to besure pressure is balanced "pre-post boost".
One is strictly intercooler piping. The lone one out is LICP from evo 9 MR..the rest your guess is as good as mine.

I have couplers and T-bolts for days

BOV, boost gauge, all the lighter but more expensive stuff is in my guest bed...yes visitors sleep on the floor with my cat...he enjoys turbo and loose women

 

Cant make a long post at the moment but just to point out.
With ecuflash as standalone will not be needed
If you are going SD then the maf is irrelevent since you will no longer be using one.
I would for sure recommend using the stock injectors until you get the hang of tuning and yeah 7 psi is fine on the stockers. Scaling injectors sucks
I have glowshift gauges except my aem wideband. There nothing special but I like them alot and they work fine.

 

Welcome to the club. I hope you have a 2nd car . Everything that can go wrong will. You dont need an EVO Maf to start if doing SD but you might have some trouble getting your car running in 2-3 days with the base map. I wouldn't even bother trying to do more then the lowest you can set the WG to. Also don't forget the map sensor, I didn't see it on the list but you will need one.

 

Thank you for confirming this. "People were knowing everything" in the stickys and I had to attest.

Glad to hear Im noit the only one thinking this on stock injectors

Glowshift does the job from what I am told. Thats all I need. Had a autometer but took it back since it was not as visible at night.

Thanks for the rundown! Will be posting much more mid week. Im going to jump on the ecuflash threads about these damn inject scalings see what I come up with if much of anything. I may have a outdated ROM ID or maybe because I havent looked at a evo ROM...or maybe I answered my own question.

S***** ALT + [ or ] Thats what it boils to!

 

Nice manifold Looks familiar. It was coated by tirado custom coatings. I would suggest a more direct path with the j-pipe like a evo 8 j-pipe? but your setup should work. It would just flow better with the evo j-pipe. Keep the pics coming.

 

Is that like a 3 or 4 bar omni type of sensor? Just want to clarify that as I indeed do not have one.

Thanx.

I hoping I can get on a 5 day binge and get it atleast started at 4 psi (lowest wg will set at) to drive to and from. Maybe take more time off

 

I think you need a 4 bar? I believe it also reads more than the 3 bar?

 

Thats what I was comparing it to earlier. Since I have to add a nipple to the j-pipe anyway i might as well make it a bit more like a 8/9 j pipe as I can already tell this will help with FMIC mock up.

The MAP sensorr might be a biotch to find. With that in mind, assuming I found a VW turbo wagon or bett3er yet a GM MAP sensor and find a vehicle that will read 4 bar would it be possible or more like will it be nessecarry to "zip-tie" this sensor onto the intake manifold.

Im pretty sure I can find these easily at a pull-a-part assuming they need no "translator box" like a GM MAF would? I would then have to assume that the harness would need to be clipped and wired to what was the existing MAF harness? Am I correct in saying this?

Thanks. Looks like I hit pull -a- part tomorrow with a big cumbersome bag of tools and not find a part. Check the pricing...sheyaa.....

 

yes, 4 bar omni if you're going to SD

 

anywhere else I can find one besides a boosted Mitsubishi? Would a "rigged" MAP sensor from a dodge caravan (for instance) work just the same as long as it is a 4 bar omni?