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Most decent sized towns will have a hydraulic hose shop, you can get high temp steel braided hose, with swaged swivel ends for pretty cheap...careful with your oil feed, I recently had a piece of stainless steel hard line made for where it connects to the turbo, because I had my turbo inlet gasket blow out and the stream of hot exhaust gas melted the hose inside the braided steel...
Got my walbro 255 in the mail and installed. Also got the turbo installed, but the bolts that came with the 3in downpipe dont fit the o2 housing. Another trip to orielys it is!
Only have to wire up my gauges
put in new plugs and wires
Hook up the coolant lines
install the injectors
And weld up the exhaust
This list is getting shorter and shorter! So excited!
Everything is in and bolted down, except I still am wiring up the LC1 and my gauges. I also need to weld in the bung for the wideband and re rest of the exhaust lmao.
Question1: When running the tephra mod ROM, to run closed loop, do I need both OE o2 sensors correct? If so then i will need to buy another bung to weld in the OE sensor.
Question 2: How do i wire the Oil pressure sender, and Oil temp gauge? (I will upload actual pics when i crawl under the car tonight.)
Actual pic of the sender and temp sensor. Which wire goes to ground and which goes to the sensor? For both of course?
Reference to the Pressure sensor, Mine looks exactly the same.
Last edited by 03OZstocker; Apr 19, 2017 at 06:52 PM.
Everything is in and bolted down, except I still am wiring up the LC1 and my gauges. I also need to weld in the bung for the wideband and re rest of the exhaust lmao.
Question1: When running the tephra mod ROM, to run closed loop, do I need both OE o2 sensors correct? If so then i will need to buy another bung to weld in the OE sensor.
Question 2: How do i wire the Oil pressure sender, and Oil temp gauge? (I will upload actual pics when i crawl under the car tonight.)
Actual pic of the sender and temp sensor. Which wire goes to ground and which goes to the sensor? For both of course?
Reference to the Pressure sensor, Mine looks exactly the same.
That sender isn't going to last too long anyway. I've had at least 2 of that model just to have them fill out of the blue.
the reason the sending units are failing, is because of engine vibration, they are sensitive mechanical devices...if you run a flex hose to it, and mount it somewhere on the chassis it will last longer...
Thanks for the info guys, im probably going to buy new gauges, and sensors as these are roughly from at least 2008. This kit was from https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...rbo-setup.html and it was never installed since being sold to Sadude. All the gauges were prewired, with no instructions and I found the newer glowshift wire instructions, but these are way old lol.
But I got the car running last night, ran it for 15 minutes, only dripped minimally out of the oil feed line (I didn't tighten it all the way). Was super loud since I haven't welded up all my exhaust yet. Im so ready to hit the road!! Only some finishing touches on it then I'm boostin daily!
I'm also looking at getting a manual boost controller (and gauge) as the Gizzmo doesn't seem to be functioning. I may need to rewire it, as I don't think the cigarette lighter functioning properly. I might directly wire it to the Battery and have it run a switch to turn on/off rather than the ignition.
When I did the first start after install (of everything) the controlled did not start up as described in the manual I found online. By displaying memory option, then boost pressure and cycling to real time boost. It just stayed blank. This issue may be the wiring I spliced into, the cigarette lighter. I may rewire it with a switch directly from the battery.
Oh and btw no 1 answered to your O2 sensor question...closed loop uses the first O2 only (B1S1) the 2nd one in the cat region is used to monitor the catalytic converter efficiency only so you dont need it.
Oh and btw no 1 answered to your O2 sensor question...closed loop uses the first O2 only (B1S1) the 2nd one in the cat region is used to monitor the catalytic converter efficiency only so you dont need it.
Awesome thank you! Ill pop the second out of the floorboard!
if you don't need to pass an emissions test, then yes you can remove the rear O2, although you will get a check engine light unless you can disable the rear O2 with your tuning software...
if you don't need to pass an emissions test, then yes you can remove the rear O2, although you will get a check engine light unless you can disable the rear O2 with your tuning software...
i do have ecuflah with the tephramod v7. So i should be able to disable that and have no problems with emissions. But it doesnt matter because my car is registered in el paso county colorado thus NO emissions!
Got a Manual boost controller in the mail today, also got a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge this weekend. I'm installing tonight and going on the first drive tomorrow Roughly 13 miles to work!
Nice to see another build. It's also nice a few other knowledgeable folks still stick around here. Good luck with the build. If you absolutely need to have the car running you can use your stock ecu but just be sure not to go into boost. I had to do it a few times.
