thanks for the comments yall... im going to get a digi soon and ill show steps of me building the lancer...

 

Hey yellow lancer maybe you know this ? Im trying to find out if the t28 that rrm uses is a b/b turbo or not (anyone know)

 

It isn't... they are very expensive and on this setup the bb only offers about 100 rpm quicker spool. Everything else is the same so saving 400bucks keeps the kit price lower.

 

If longevity is what your looking for then just water cool and oil cool your turbo. That's what i did and it feels like it even helped out... maybe there is less heat transfer now so my intake charge is cooler?? All in all it cost me about 200 bucks to do that. Id rather that than 400 more for the bb.

 

Vince is moving into his new MANSION with a 3 FUC@ing car garage!! Thus we won't be doing his mod till the 1st of June! He's a punk but i gotta give him props on a super nice custom built house! So Vince... or should i say pops... when do i move in??

 

This is a big T-28. The compressor wheel is larger than T-28. It is not ballbearing but BOE hit it on the head. No real advantage to BB for this application anyway. Better to have the larger compressor wheel.

ROAD/RACE

 

Yea the longevitey was the key point, I put a tremendous amount of miles on my car a year put it this way about 800 miles a week at least. Bout how long does non b/b turbos last is there a average or nothing to worry about.

 

Without water/oil cooling it's a guess as the lancer guys i've known really have had no issues. There are people out there that have over 40k miles on them with no issues. I recently had an oil seal go out but ironically it happened while i was tuning the stage 2 setup. I probably got things a little to hot doing pull after pull after pull. Now i've water cooled the sucker and added an inline oil cooler. With those i've seen these turbo's do over 100k before servicing/replacement. A lot of factory turbo's are non bb... all they do is water cool them along with the oil supply. They last and are warrantied so i followed suite. Like i said, all in all i paid about 200 bucks for the oil cooled and water cooled setup on my ride. I'm sure it can be done way cheaper. I had steel braded lines made for the oil and water. All my fittings are stainless steel as well. That cost a few bucks in itself.

 

Could not have said it better my self... Hit 200 miles last night of break in and holy %$#@!

The potential of this car is amazing...from a slow roll in 2nd on a small side road not much more than a quarter mile I'd say we broke loose in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, clutch slipping like crazy hit over 100 mph... brakes? useless... WOW...

 

NICE huh?

ROAD/RACE

 

since the longevity topic was brought up...how streetable is the stage two...is it to much for a daily driver?

 

Not too much for daily but way too much for stock clutch and brakes...

 

i've heard from a good friend that the t 28 is actually smaller than a t 25. Is that true ? And really how big of a diff is there to get a BB versus a non bb ?? I know ball bearing turbo's are supposed to spool faster but how much faster - i think i will just work on my mods and get rrm's kit next year

 

It spools plenty fast...

 

Not sure how a turbo kit is harder on the clutch and brakes just because it's a turbo... it's how you drive after putting it on that wears things out faster. If you hammer it when you're having fun, but drive conservatively on your commuting trips, you should not notice much of a longevity problem at all. Correct me if I'm wrong.