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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #16  
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i was goin to move my hvac controls but once it was all apart, it look like it was just going to to be more of a pain then it was worth to me, but if u do want to move it and put in a double-din, hears the one id like http://www.eclipse-web.com/avx/avx2494.htm
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:42 PM
  #17  
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thats the one i was lookin at before if i have to, ill do some custom fiberglassing or somethin
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:49 PM
  #18  
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If a flip out screen is out of the question, you'll need the cd changer install kit for the lower din, and a compatible din sized cable-controlled HVAC unit. (I think the one for a 3g Eclipse works with modification...it's been posted on here a few times) Then you'll need a custom fiberglassed panel to hold the monitor in the dash. All this would require more free time than I could ever come up with, so if you can do it, I'd love to see the finished product.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:16 PM
  #19  
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Well im in auto tech and we have everything imaginable, so if not fiberglass it'll be sheet metal and bondo, or something, and im in a few electrical classes so that'll help too
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 10:45 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by vrrrm...psss
Well, you will find about an equal group of ED lovers / haters in the caraudio world. The owner Ben Milne, has been known to **** over lots of his friends/customers. I personally wouldn't buy from them just because some of those "friends/customers" are my friends as well. Lots of people who have purchased their products seem to be happy with the performance, so to each his own. Do a search over on www.caraudio.com/vb and see what others have to say.
+1

Their new Big 3 upgrade kit is an outright joke pricewise.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 06:13 PM
  #21  
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whats the big 3 upgrade kit?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 07:33 PM
  #22  
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15ft of wire and a few ring terminals

http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ult...5;t=007801;p=1
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #23  
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yeah, that pretty much is overkill on the price, total price should be no more than $20 IMHO... but now that i've looked at it, i might buy some wire n just to the ALT cable, my batterys in my trunk, and the ground wire is bolted where the rear seats r bolted to the frame.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:44 PM
  #24  
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You've got batteries in your trunk and you don't have the amps hooked to the negative on the battery? Thats the best ground you can have.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:07 PM
  #25  
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im thinkin about taking the rear seats out and grounding the battery to the seat belt buckle ****... but idk... ima mess with it all tomorrow n ima try to do something to keep my amp from sliding all over the place, but pretty soon im gonna have a few more amps so ima need a red top or a yellow top battery. which one is better?
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:07 PM
  #26  
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YUKMFTGJNMFG

Last edited by mitsulancerrace; Oct 18, 2005 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 09:31 PM
  #27  
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Analogy time! Big3:Electrical::Greddy EVO2 w/high flow cat and RRM headers:Exhaust

That big 3 upgrade reduces resistance in your electrical system which lets you use your power more efficiently. If you have dimming, you need to increase your current capacity, which means a higher output alternator. Thats going to run you $300-400 for a new one with ~100amps idle output; I'm going to need one as well if i want to run the 1400watts I want to. Another option is to have your alternator rewound and rebuilt for that power. This is less expensive, but I've heard more than a few stories of rewound alts dieing prematurely.

If you go to an audio shop, they'll probably try to sell you a stiffening capacitor(cap). They sound like a good option to help with dimming and best of all they're normally ~$100. This *can* help with very slight dimming, but thats not what they are for. They are for stabilizing small voltage/current fluctuations to increase stability of your amps. It will not increase your current capabiliteis.
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