if you dont care about the money get JLs ported, sealed it still sounds good. you get what you paid for. I heard the JL GTI hatch in person. go to jlaudio.com. it has 2 13 JL W7s..crazy fiberglass enclosure.plus its a hatch so its louder.

 

yes im finnallyy an evolving member....about time....

 

K.I. were you at. are we talking to a wall here?

 

sry i work long hours and a lot of the times i just go straight to bed. thnx for all the info you posted up it really helps. i havnt gotten much time to really look around for a sub but now that its the weekend im gonna try hitting up ebay or something. and since i probably need a sub to really determine what amp i should get, how can i find out what a good amp is compared to a junky amp?

ill also check out the jls too. thnx

 

it should be the other way around, pick out an amp and get a sub to match it

many things determine amps, pick out some u like and well tell u about them

 

I have a pioneer dvc 15" in a sealed square box I made. Fits fine and I have plenty of space in front and on the side of it. It fires towards the rear. 1 15" is my vote.

 

mtx and rockford make incredible amps. theyre hand tested and made in america and come with an actuall test sheet that tell you exactly the wattage at impedence with distortion.
stats to look for:
T.H.D.% [ total harmonic distortion] the lower the better. however, sub woofer amps [class d] tend to be a little higher than multi channel amps[ class a/b]. thats o.k. though becuz distortion is less noticable in lower frequencys.
S/N [signal to noise ratio] this basically is a measurement of how well a amp turns power into sound,[efficiency], in lamens terms. the higher the better
R.M.S. [root means square] this is the continuos wattage the amp makes. match that to your sub. this you may already know. but the trick is to find that figure in 12.2v rather than 14.4v. since the latter isnt a real world figure. that will give you a better idea of what the amp can really do hooked up to a car and not a test bench.
hope this helps. feel free to ask more detailed questions. i'm loaded with info on this stuff.
i'm educated and well read in audio electonics tech, acoustics theory and design, and currently study theory on physcoacoustics.[ the study of how the human ear/mind percieve sound]. i love this stuff, so i'm more than happy to help. no bullsh!t here buddy.

 

I PUT 15's in the TRUNK OF A LANCER ONCE!! They pounded .. two pg 15" titaniums 500 wrms each

 

jesus! but only sealed isn't.

 

kicker L7 12..

ull only need one, and it will hit harder than 2 15s

 

I say go with a 12" because it requires less power from the amp then the 15'' so the power you would use to power the 15'' would be more effective on the 12''. look for a Sub that has a really high sensitivity rating. Because Sensitivity goes hand-in-hand with power to achieve high output. A sub that has a higher sensitivity rating requires less power to produce the same amount of sound as a model with a lower sensitivity rating. I would say Audiobahn makes subs with a high sensitivty rating so those pound pretty good. I like Polk MOMO subs those are really good and MTX. so yea The high the sensitivity the less power needed so a 12'' with a good amp could sound as good or better then the 15'' with the right amp.

Check out this site Crutchfield.com they have lots of products and info... also wat fits your car and how to install videos. They are the best I say.

Crutchfield

and this for any more info on wat to look for in a sub.
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/le...ing_guide.html

 

^^^

 

get two 15's. they'll fit in your trunk. they fit in mines.

 

i say you scratch the 15" idea and go with either one or two 12" or two 10"

 

wow this thread is kinda old. sorry