yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

lol sony amps are not as good as you think......their quality has gone dooooown

lancerguy0208

Well as long as we're on the subject, can you give me an accurate answer on which subs are better- Sony or Kenwood? I was planing on two Sony 12s and their 1100w mono amp, but I found a killer deal that ends tomorrow on two Kenwood 12s and an amp. But the amp is only 350w and I dont see how thats nearly enough power for two 12s.

Evodreamer28

iTrader: (14)

Personally I wouldn't suggest either. Both are pretty low quality. What exactly is your budget? I think that may help a lot to suggest something.

lancerguy0208

Well the Sony 12s are already pre-wired and installed in the enclosure for only $220. It would save about $200 off buying everything separately. But I would only wanna spend up to about $300 for the subs, and I only really wanted 10s. But enclosures are so damn expensive.

Evodreamer28

iTrader: (14)

I would still suggest staying away from the sony. Their stuff just isnt what it used to be. If you by any chance have aim, hit me up, im on right now. My screen name is skullnbones28. I would be much easier to talk.

lancerguy0208

Sorry, I dont have AIM. But just off the top of your head, what are a few companies that I can check out for quality subs? I know Kicker and Rockford Fosgate and those kinda guys kick *** but they're wayyy outta my price range.

Evodreamer28

iTrader: (14)

Well I have used jl audio and I love their products. If you arent looking for an absurd amount of base I would suggest doing two 10w1v2's. They are rate at 300watts rms. They are listed on jl's site for $129.95 plus shipping. JL is having a black friday sale from 11/26-11/30 so that price may go down even lower. I will update the thread if they do. http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...99.48073.0.0.0

If you dont mind spending a bit more money for a bit more base then I would suggest doing the 10w3v3's. These hit pretty good for being a 10" sub. I had two of them in my lancer with a 600watt us amp. They are rated at 500watts rms. They go for $239.95 plus shipping. Once again they may be cheaper for their black friday sale.
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...99.46364.0.0.0

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

if your price range is seriously $300 for just subs, you have a LOT of options! i got my 2 Kicker L7s for 377 shipped haha. how many watts RMS do you want? a.k.a. how loud do you want to be? I suggest you get 2 kicker CVR 12s or 10s, they will sound great, and build yourself a ported box, but make sure you do it right. I found those subs on amazon for 60 bucks each brand new.or you could get one Kicker L5, I built my friend a ported box for one of those and it sounded AMAZING and louder than expected!

Also, you can check out these companies:
Alpine
JL
Kicker
Rockford Fosgate
Hifonics
some Pioneers
some Kenwoods

I just built my friend a new box for his 300 watt Hifonics sub, and you seriously wouldnt be able to tell it is only 300 watts

lancerguy0208

OK, I'll check stuff out before I buy anything. And just to make sure, for all the battery to alternator wires, I should be using what type of 4-gauge wire? And where does the distribution block go? What I really need is a full write-up on how to install everything. haha

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

the 4 gauge wire you should use, should be car audio specific wire because it is very high stranded and can pass a lot of current. dont go to an auto store and get battery wire, its usually NOT sufficient for the amperage. good brands are stinger, tsunami, JL, rockford fosgate, and kicker. but usually the only wire you can buy by the foot is Tsunami and Stinger.

lol hope this helps.....



for the in-line fuses, you want the fuse to equal the total amount of amps that its "feeding." for the first one, add up all the fuses that are on each amp, total it, and thats how many amps the main in-line fuse should be at the battery (no more than 12" after the battery btw). for the other two in-line fuses, the fuse should be the total of all fuses on THE amp that it is connected to. for example:

amp 1: 3, 25 amp fuses
amp 2: 2, 25 amp fuses

main in-line fuse (at battery): 125 amps
in-line fuse for amp 1, after d-block: 75 amps
in-line fuse for amp 2, after d-block: 50 amps

and the picture doesnt show this, but the line going from the battery to the d-block should be connected to the BATTERY, not off of the wire going from the alternator to the battery, sorry i drew it that way. I suggest getting new battery terminals too, Stinger makes some great terminals.

and also, no offense to the authors, but dont follow most of the write-ups on this forum. most of the ones ive seen have been......eh......haha

lancerguy0208

OK, I think I follow you on most of this. One thing though, can you have a separate power(red) wire running to each amp directly from the battery? I bought a dual amp wiring kit that has a 18ft 4-gauge power wire and only a 6ft 8-gauge power wire. I already have an 8-gauge power wire run from my battery for my current amp and didnt know if I could use this temporarily for my speaker amp until I get my subs and mono amp and fully install everything. If not, what is the 6ft wire for if it doesn't reach the battery? The man at the store where I bought the kit said something about splitting the 4-gauge wire and I didnt really know what he was talkin about. Is that what the d-block is for? And my speaker amp has two 25 fuses so I know the inline one for that will be 50, but like I said I dont have my sub equipment yet. But thanks for the heads up on Sony and for your recommendations. I plan on 2 JL Audio 10" 1v2 subs with 300w at 4 ohms and their G1300 amp with 150w at 4 ohms. Does that make sense? I hope so cause I've always wanted JL and the total is only $180 more than the Sony gear.

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

no, dont do separate wires. will put more strain on the battery. yes, "splitting" the wire means using a d-block. the 6' 8 GA wire is for ground, but i suggest you return the amp kit if you still can, much cheaper and better quality to buy everything separate. Also, the ground wire should be BIGGER if not the same as the power wire, gauge wise. you can also use a separate d-block and run both amp grounds to it, then one 4 gauge ground from it to a ground. but the grounds need to be as short as possible in length! I suggest removing the 8 gauge you have now, and run new 4 gauge already to a d-block, then 8 gauge to your speaker amp, and already running 6-channels of RCAs to where your amps will be. just to get this work over with, you know? since you are just going to be running 300 watts RMS total, you will be fine with 8 ga wire. also, make sure to get the 4 ohm subs, since the amp is 300 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and 2 SVC 4 ohm subs can be wired to 2 ohms.

lancerguy0208

OK, 6 channels of RCAs. Thats two for the sub amp and four for the speaker one, right? And where do they plug in on the opposite end of the wire(not the amp side)? Cause the kit only came with four but I already have two ran from my last setup. And there is a 6' black 8g wire and a 6' red 8g wire. I know the black one is for ground so I was asking what the red one is for. Separating at the d-block? Also, I wanna make sure I get my sub amp wire gauge right. When you look at the individual 10w1v2-4 sub, it says 300w@4ohms. But I want the pre-assembled enclosure containing two 10w1v2-4 subs, which states 2 ohms final impedance and doesn't show the wattage at all. I wish JL was more clear on their website about the specs of products. Why are the dual subs only 2ohms instead of 4 when its still the same subwoofer model? The amp is 150w@4ohms and 300w@2ohms. If the amp suits 2- or 4-ohm setups I can use it either way, right?

yitzac1990

iTrader: (16)

lol if you have to be asking these questions, you really shouldn't be doing the install yourself......

yes thats right about the RCAs and they plug into the back of the radio....you have an aftermarket radio, right? the 6' red 8 gauge is probably for running from the d-block to the amps, because it probably expects you to put the d-block close to the amps, so they only include 6' of it for both amps. 8 gauge for the power wire for the sub amp will be fine, trust me. the preloaded enclosure is at 2 ohms, because they have it so the 2 subs are wired together inside the box, and there is only one hookup on the outside of the box, for both subs. you need to understand ohms law and everything....2 subwoofers that are 4 ohm single voice coil can be wired together in parallel or series, with a final impedance of either 2 ohms or 8 ohms. having TWO SVC 4 ohm subs, is the same as having ONE DVC 4 ohm sub, as far as resistance is concerned. the amp c an be used either way, as long as the subs are wired right. since this preloaded enclosure's final impedance is 2 ohms, the amp will be pushing 300 watts RMS, which is the combined RMS wattage of the subs.

lancerguy0208

OK, that makes sense. Yeah, I'm a major newb when it comes to audio. haha I've taken out my head unit and I knew that was where the RCAs go, but I asked cause I didnt know how many outlets it would have for RCA cables. If I dont use a separate d-block and combine both grounds into one 4g ground, can I ground the two separate wires to the same metal point on the car?