Ok, if you read my earlier posts, you know I don't know squat about tuning.

That said, here's a couple questions.

I'm getting some knocking (pretty sure the HFC) at startup. Sometimes revving the engine a little will stop it.

I have AEM wideband. So if I'm driving along and it says 14.8... does that mean I'm running 14.8:1? I mean, 14.8 parts air to 1 part fuel? or what? I always thought that mean I was running too rich - am I running too lean? What am I looking for the WB to say? With the addition of the piggy, on hard acceleration I'm usually running in the 13's (green on my gauge). But normally, I'm running higher, in the orange part of the dial. Thanks for the help doodz/

edit: PS. we did recently move the car from florida to minnesota, is that an issue?

 

yes a 14.8 reading ont he WB means 14.8:1 A/F. If thats a reading a full throttle, that is way to lean. If thats a reading during cruising your fine. At full throttle you'd want to be around 12.5:1 - 13.0-1 for NA.

 

Um, your HFC has nothing to do with causing predetonation (AKA knock). Bad tuning causes predetonation.

 

I tried to explain this earlier to you. the higher the number the leaner it runs. The lower the better. 12.5-13 (like phil said) is what you are aiming for EVERYWHERE. If you were smart you would get someone who knows ALOT about what they are doing or pay a shop to do it. Engine knock isn't something to laugh about.

 

I haven't made any changes, so if my tunes off its from the map that came with piggy. Secondly, I said it sounds like it's coming from the hfc, I dunno (or I meant to say it sounds). Chill out a bit, please, we can't all be gods like you. When first starting the car it's idling in the 13's, as the rpms kick down a little the first time (still sitting still) it goes up to 14.8. Now, what phil said does (mostly) describe the readings I'm getting. Hard on the gas and the readings are 13.5 - 13.8. Cruising is generally when the readings are higher. However, THERE IS A DISTINCT KNOCKING SOUND @ STARTUP EVER SINCE INSTALLING PGGY V.2. I'm certainly not complaining about RRM, let me say that first. I'm just saying that I noticed it the VERY first startup after my 'learning period.' (yes, I'm so stupid I paid to have it installed, at least I know how disinclined I am) so the shop guys started it the first time. That knocking noise has gotten a little less noticible since installation, and OFTEN a little rev of the engine fix's the proplem. Sheesh

I might be stupid, blacksheep, but I'm getting awfully tired of posting around here when a REGULAR member has to write 3 disclaimers before completing a post. As a human being and a regular member I deserve some common respect.

And maybe I'm even a disabled american with severe head radiation (1.25 lethal dose) who doesn't work with numbers well. This place is getting just like everywhere else on the net. Ask a question and you get one of two responses: 1. It was po sted here 8 years ago, search. I didn't really read exactly what you were looking for, but search dumba$$. or 2) Dumba$$.

Excuse me, I'm a little frustrated - I had to vote today and its a ****e world we live in. But that's personal. I hope you all will vote when it's your turn.

 

Do you hear detonation any other time besides at startup?

 

Check your plugs and post pics. We'll tell you if you're knocking/running lean/rich/ or whatever you want to know

 

will pull plugs sunday (finally getting paid) no other knocking, except at startup.

 

OK, I'm lost. All I said was that the HFC wouldn't cause the knock. I did not disrespect you or call you stupid. I stated one fact.

 

12.5 everywhere? You'd want your car running that rich at idle? You'd want your car to run that rich under small load? There goes your fuel efficiency. Don't go rich unless you need to go rich.

Now... If YOU were smart, you'd realize some people don't have as much knowledge as other, and you'd talk to him in a respectful manner.

 

Hows the issue coming? Did you get the plugs out? Howd they look?Pics?

 

Do you know the difference between noisy lifters and detonation? The lifter thing is common, and the easiest fix is as you described, revving to increase oil pressure. If it's definitely knock (detonation) there are a few simple steps you could start with.

1. Reset the ECU. It could be overcompensating for a rapid change in climate. Not likely the cause, but possibly a solution.

2. Get an OBDII scanner and see if it pulls any codes. Autozone used to let you use these for free. Just because you're not throwing a CEL doesn't mean you're clear of codes. I'd keep an eye out for random misfires. This obviously won't fix the problem, but it will help diagnose it.

3. If the UEGO says 14.8:1 from the 5v signal, it's probably 14.8:1. (I can only assume it's calibrated correctly, because it should be) If it's from the 1v signal, it could be inaccurate, simply because it's a narrowband representation of a wideband reading, and I'm not sure they're any more accurate than a typical narrowband sensor in that respect. Check your O2 sensor install.

You may want to ease up on the mods and do a bit more research. It's easy to get in over your head and make your car a lot more complicated than it has to be. Trust me on this.