Ok so i said I would try to write a how to, so here goes ill do my best! if you are by yourself plan on atleast 6 hours, it took me about 5 1/2 by myself w/lunch and a quick run to autozone.

First check the I.M and T.B for cracks

Tools: 8mm socket/wrench, 10 mm socket/wrench, 12 mm socket/wrench, 14mm socket/wrench. rag, catch pan if u have one, patience and time. Also if you have a 12mm Ratchet wrench that will help out alot! I would also recommend new gaskets, im gonna get a new one for my tb just incase, but ive been told to always change the gaskets when replacing things.

Disconnect the battery, and take off your intake. next you disc. the top 2 vacum hoses on the T.B then take off the bolts connecting it to the I.M. disc the electric wires, then get ready the 2 bottom black hoses have coolant in them, I hope u got that rag and catch pan handy. If u do it right it wont be too bad. then just take the throttle cable off, Then just take the T.B off and set it down, dont forget the gasket, hopefully u have a new one ( about 8 bucks at dealer ). congradulations u did the easy part!

Now on to the stressful time consumming part. Disc the throttle cable from the manifold. any hoses connected to the manifold, dont forget the one in the back, and left side. Well i guess however u see fit on doing the next part, I however unhooked all the electrical wires to the fuel rail, then unhooked any hosses connecting to the I.M that includes the one from the engine, also if you want go ahead and disc any other wires that arent on the vacuum system bracket. there are 5 bolts connecting the vacuum system bracket to the manifold, so ones u unplug the electrical wires down by the fuel rail u should be able to reach them with a ratchet or wrench.

once the vacuum bracket is off you will need to take the bolts off the fuel rail ( im not sure if that is actually necissary, but i saw it fit so i could reach the manifold bolts more easily) . then just take the injectors out, also dont lose the 2 black o rings that fit under the fuel rail. that black bracket that connects from the manifold/throttlebody to the engine block, to take that off just take those bottom 2 bolts off, fairly easy youll have to slide that to the right because in the middle are some hoses.

At this point you should check to make sure u havent lost any bolts, you remember where everything goes, all the wires are off the manifold. the wires to the vacuum bracket can stay on it because that disc. from the maifold. and if u chose too, the fuel rail is off. and the 2 black rings are accounted for. and you have disc the black bracket.

Now its work time on the manifold bolts, on the top the far left one and far right one are actual bolts, the ones in the middle are just washers. you should be able to get those off no problem the bottom bolts however, I really recommend a ratchet wrench for those, I had to run to autozone to get one. Either that or a small ratchet will fit, but really if u have it the ratchet wrench, size 12mm by the way, all the bolts on the manifold are 12mm. you'll really have to manuver to get those bottom middle ones, and I have fairly big arms ( not to brag ) so it was kinda hard for me.

Once those are off there are 2 14mm bolts connected too the back just reach back there and get those. now take the manifold off, oh but wait the egr valve is still on!! heh, just take that off outside i found it easier, also Do not make the same mistake i did, there is a egr gasket that goes inbetween there that is the same color as the manifold, so just pay attention to that

First look at the manifold, see that red paint in the screw holes, youll wanna get rid of any paint in the screw holes or you'll have a fun time getting screws to go in the first time, I actually took all the bolts screwed them in with the manifold still out of the car so that it would be easier when I put it in the car. Now just retrace ur steps, put the gasket and egr valve back on the new I.M, put that in, put those 14mm bolts back in the back, I hope you remembered to use a gasket, hopefully new. bolt on the I.M bolts put them all on then tighten from the inside out. Then do the fuel rail bolts, remember to put back the black o rings, line up the injectors. then get the vacuum bracket screw that back on 5 bolts, start from the bottom cause those are tuff, then start putting hoses back where they belong dont forget the egr hose or any of the little ones u might have missed. If u need it there is a vacuum system diagram on the top of your hood for reference. hook up the fuel electricals, and the bottom part of the black bracket. bolt the throttle cable back on, then get the T.B and gasket put that on put the throttle cable back onto that, hook your intake back up turn on your battery and you should be good to go.

remember to double check all hoses, and make sure u tighten those bolts but not too tight. I ended up breaking one tightening it too tight. If you turn your car on and it wont stay on, there is a major hose you forgot connecting to the I.M, If you hear a whistling/ siren type noise, it could be you messed up the vacuum hose system, you didnt tighten a bolt enough or a gasket is broke.

Also my review of the mods, While having both on my car ( the T.B had a crack so I had a vacuum leak ) I still noticed a nice improvement in the cars throttle response. I could really feel the car pull more when I was excellerating especially around 3,500ish rpm's. Right now I only have the manifold on and stock T.B till i get a new one, but it still is a nice improvment, still pulls and beter response. I even think its louder now. I would definitly recomend these mods to anyone N/A or turbo. def worth the money.

I know im not the best teacher, but i did my best! hope it was ok and some people understood it. If i left anything out please feel free to add.

 

Any chance you could grab a couple pics to show a few points? We can make this into a how to for you in the HT/I forum no problem.

 

i took pics but i have to develope them then ill just scan them on, ill try and get it done hopefully by the end of the weekend.

 

Sounds good!

 

thanks for the write up :-D ... hopefully getting my intake manifold and t.b next week.. (plus alot more little goodies ) .. sorry to hear about the cracked t.b :-\ ... that sucks, but thanks again for the write up! Nice job

- Rob

 

good writeup man. so you would definately suggest this as a good upgrade? i just cant help but think i can spend nearly 700 bucks on something else.

you said throttle response improved, is it significant? i know it sounds dumb, but i want to floor it and as least squeak the tires a bit, which i can't do right now.

 

well i only got to test both of them at the same time for a little bit, I had that crack which gave me a vacuum leak. but even with it I noticed a nice increase in throttle response, each gear was sig. beter. and remember mine is an auto . My fiance was in the car with me too and she was like wow, she said it really feels like the front of the car is pulling the back now, when I floored it. like I said before, especially around 3,500ish rpms You can really feel the power gained. Honestly I definitly feel a gain, and I really think they are great mods to have. Im sure Turbo feels it alot more cause with F.I you always get beter results, but yeah Id say its a good mod to have, boe said it would free around 10 hp and tq. and I could feel it even with the vacuum leak. Even with the manifold just on, I really feel a good gain.

you gotta think (correct me on these numbers if im wrong, this is how i see it)

SRI w/heat shield - 5 hp
Catbak sys- 8-10 hp
Header- 8-10 hp
Throttle body- 5 hp
Intake manifold- 5 hp

so, thats about 35 hp to the crank which would give us around 155. then maybe 125hp 130 hp at the wheels...and thats with just bolt ons, no cam work, no fuel mods and no ecu mods, and no suspension, no drivetrain mods...So i think that the tb and im are worth it
all you guys that think N/A isnt the way to go, I know you can get more power from the turbo, but just seein how much you can get without turbo, THEN slapping one on thats like 260-270 hp at the wheels. I really think that an N/A lancer can get to around 170 whp if the correct mods are in place, call me crazy if u will

Anyway back on topic, haha yeah I give both of these mods about a 9 out of 10, and install 1 being easiest 10 being the hardest the throttle body gets a 2, just for the coolant. the I.M gets a 7 for all the hoses bolts and hard to reach stuff. By the way I got the pictures developed, they look like crap cause it was a disposable, but ill get some of them up anyway!

Sorry for my long rant

 

alright man, you talked me into it

once i collect some outstanding debts, i'll order them we'll see how it goes. i'm auto too, i'm just hoping i can lay some squeals down when i floor it haha!

what mods do you have planned next? what mods do you have so far?

 

my mods as of today:

Custom SRI, Catbak, Header, Intake manifold, performance tires.

I have lowering springs but havent installed them. I dont have a torque gun or spring compressor. And I will have the Throttlebody when I get a new one back from RRM. Fuel rail from boe is in the mail.

My future mods: Cam work, Port and polish, E-manage, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, strutbars, sway bars, Torque converter. Probably some form of a weight reduction.

I got plans for my baby (dont tell my fiance i said that!)

 

well, keep us updated on your progress. i'm still debating whether going all out on n/a (camshaft/gear and fuel mods like you have planned) or to stop with rrm's piggyback