Installing Upgraded Fuel Rail - 4G94
Originally Posted by Bigjoeski05
I got a fuel leak and there is Fuel everywhere. HELP!!!!
mark
i got my car back today from the shop. They changed these on all four injectors, The Sheet's, O-Ring's, and Insulator's and with an hour of labor it cost $173.60 and parts total costed $90.52. But anyways it's all fixed and runs like a camp with the new fuel rail.
Hey guys...just wanna add my experience. First off the install took me at least an hour. I did my sprark plugs at the same time.
A couple things that I noticed was that you do NOT need those black spacers that are under the 12 mm bolts. The upgraded fuel rail brackets from RRM did not have a groove to accept the spacers. Also, the new allen bolts supplied by RRM must be inserted into the brackets before the brackets are bolted to the rail.
In addition to the steps that were dictated earlier, I found that removing the wire harness that runs above the fuel rail helps alot in removing the fuel rail easily. I just simply unplugged all the plugs, these include the ones for the injector and the ones for the coil packs. After unhooking all of the plugs, I just moved the harness toward the front of the car and had more than enough room to work. I also removed the PCV vacuum hose as well.
Finally with the added size of the new fuel rail, the upper 10mm bolt on the driver side of the fuel rail was impossible to tighten with my standard 3/8 drive socket. I had to use my 1/4 socket instead.
I haven't tested my car yet but the only thing I noticed that was the car took at least 7 seconds to start as apposed to the 2-3 seconds it normally takes. This I assume is normal since all of the fuel in the rail had to refill itself.
A couple things that I noticed was that you do NOT need those black spacers that are under the 12 mm bolts. The upgraded fuel rail brackets from RRM did not have a groove to accept the spacers. Also, the new allen bolts supplied by RRM must be inserted into the brackets before the brackets are bolted to the rail.
In addition to the steps that were dictated earlier, I found that removing the wire harness that runs above the fuel rail helps alot in removing the fuel rail easily. I just simply unplugged all the plugs, these include the ones for the injector and the ones for the coil packs. After unhooking all of the plugs, I just moved the harness toward the front of the car and had more than enough room to work. I also removed the PCV vacuum hose as well.
Finally with the added size of the new fuel rail, the upper 10mm bolt on the driver side of the fuel rail was impossible to tighten with my standard 3/8 drive socket. I had to use my 1/4 socket instead.
I haven't tested my car yet but the only thing I noticed that was the car took at least 7 seconds to start as apposed to the 2-3 seconds it normally takes. This I assume is normal since all of the fuel in the rail had to refill itself.
Originally Posted by sadude
I installed the one from RRM. It's been on sale for a little bit now.
...unless you've got an old magnum fuel rail 
Originally Posted by Bigjoeski05
i got my car back today from the shop. They changed these on all four injectors, The Sheet's, O-Ring's, and Insulator's and with an hour of labor it cost $173.60 and parts total costed $90.52. But anyways it's all fixed and runs like a camp with the new fuel rail.
that is so wrong 
Originally Posted by comatose721
the RRM fuel rail is just an OEM rail bored out. i don't see how there was any issue with it the new rail fiting more tightly ...unless you've got an old magnum fuel rail
...unless you've got an old magnum fuel rail 
Originally Posted by newbiewonkenobe
Ok please correct me as I am probably wrong. I thought the 4g94 (I'm 05 lancer, that's what I have right?) I thought because there was no return fuel line we couldn't use the bored fuel rails?
