Hi, I did a search on the piggyback and i saw that someone said it only deals with the a/f ratio. Can someone confirm this or let me know exactly what it does? All of the posts i've seen on it got me a little confused. My buddy told me that if thats all it does, its probably better just to buy a afc and he could set it for me for free. If this is true i'd rather save a little money and do whichever is better. Thanks for the help, Matt

 

yes it only controls af ratios, not timing.

 

safc will not work unless you get anoher MAF...and will prolly run you more than the piggy after everything

 

eh, that's not entirely true... after i found out what the piggyback actually was, things started to make a bit more sense. the piggyback does what a regular safc does, which means it has the same limitations. if a piggyback works, then a safc should yield similar results. if it's proven that you can't add correction with a safc, then logically, neither can the piggyback. with the SAME MAF, mind you. this would also logically follow that the piggyback is only taking away fuel. if you have an safc, you just need a wideband to adjust it and that's it. i'm really hoping that if i'm wrong that someone WILL say something. but i'm pretty confident at the moment. but that doesn't usually mean anything.

the only real difference between the safc and piggyback is that the piggyback has 200 points of correction throughout the rpm band as opposed to the 8 in a safc-II ver 1. i think the version 2 has 12 or 16 adjustable points? can't remember.

 

kris, how easy would it be to do what your taking about>?

 

but after the safc and a wideband...wouldnt you be over the price of the piggy

 

yeah, if you have to buy a wideband, that's at least $330. brings the total to maybe $530. the thing tho was that he said his friend could set it for him. this brings it back down to maybe $200. if his friend doesn't have a wideband, he won't be as precise as the RRM piggy and either screw up and have a ***t fuel curve(like mine) or not have as much gain as the RRM piggy.

if you've got a wideband(or access to) it's not that hard since you're just subtracting at certain places. it's not like you're starting from scratch. keep subtracting at a certain rpm until you've got the right AF reading. i wouldn't suggest this to a n00b, but it is possible.

 

also, bringing down the AF curve means you'll probably need higher octane gas. i hate gas prices.

 

yeah especially when it $3/gal

 

Well as they say you gotta pay to play when it comes to performance.

WADAD

 

Thanks for the responses, it definately helped