Sticky Pedal????
^
That's what I'm talking about... I had a feeling about that glue. Gosh. Everyone here is so quick to point out neglence on the driver. C'mon guys. I'm no mechanic, but I know a thing or to about maintanance.
So coolant bypass, huh? How long you been running that?
That's what I'm talking about... I had a feeling about that glue. Gosh. Everyone here is so quick to point out neglence on the driver. C'mon guys. I'm no mechanic, but I know a thing or to about maintanance.
So coolant bypass, huh? How long you been running that?
And like I said in my first post, I bought the part brand new. The problem started then, and has been there ever since. So it couldn't be from my non- maintanance or from RRM's neglect. Those guys are better than that....
^
So in your opinion, do you think our problem is from crap in the TB? Because, like you said, the problem started right from installation of a CLEAN TB.
How about the what the other guy said. Maybe we need to lube the throttle cable??
So in your opinion, do you think our problem is from crap in the TB? Because, like you said, the problem started right from installation of a CLEAN TB.
How about the what the other guy said. Maybe we need to lube the throttle cable??
TB coolant bypass slows the throttle body from reaching normal running temp. Most likely the problem goes away as the engine heates up and this is because the throttle body also heats up and expands. The butterfly then has more room to move around.
whether it is a new part or not the closed position of the throttle plate will differ from every one. Like I said before there is a bolt that is used to adjust the closed position but this should only be done after narrowing down any other influence ex: blow-by, sticky throttle cable. Cleaning does help reduce the stickyness but at the same time the oil that causes the tb to freeze up also acts as a lubricant to keep the tb plate moving smoothly.
As for lubing the throttle cable use white lithium grease. You want to use a slightly heavier lubricant or else it will just run off.
Look for a throttle body cleaner that also has a lubricant in it. I can't remember the name now but just read the lable ya.
if all else fails and you need to adjust the bolt then do so...
whether it is a new part or not the closed position of the throttle plate will differ from every one. Like I said before there is a bolt that is used to adjust the closed position but this should only be done after narrowing down any other influence ex: blow-by, sticky throttle cable. Cleaning does help reduce the stickyness but at the same time the oil that causes the tb to freeze up also acts as a lubricant to keep the tb plate moving smoothly.
As for lubing the throttle cable use white lithium grease. You want to use a slightly heavier lubricant or else it will just run off.
Look for a throttle body cleaner that also has a lubricant in it. I can't remember the name now but just read the lable ya.
if all else fails and you need to adjust the bolt then do so...
^
I agree. And I thank you for suggesting other possibilities other than "you've been neglecting your engine. You got a lot of crap inside the TB."
I will try them all, narrowing it all down one by one starting with the cable lube. Because like I said, the problem started with a new, CLEAN TB installed. So crap ALONE can't be the answer.
I agree. And I thank you for suggesting other possibilities other than "you've been neglecting your engine. You got a lot of crap inside the TB."
I will try them all, narrowing it all down one by one starting with the cable lube. Because like I said, the problem started with a new, CLEAN TB installed. So crap ALONE can't be the answer.
The glue is designed to make a perfect seal. If you want take off the intake watch the TB open and close (with the car off of course) and you will see the glue sealing the butterfly. You can take a little sandpaper or something and just grind the glue down just a bit.
I've been having a sticky TB for a while now. The solution was to use a throttle body cleaner. Don't use carb cleaner, because it'll probably eat away the seals/glue people are talking about.
The problem with cleaning the TB is that you can't just spray while the engine is running, because if the MAF isn't reading airflow the car will stall out trying to stay running.
So, the solution is to take the MAF off while the engine is off and spray for about 10 seconds while fluttering the throttle. Be sure to put a rag under the TB to catch run off.
Then you've gotta hook the MAF back up, start the car. Though, it takes a few turns of the crank to get the car started.
Let it run for a minute or two and repeat the process till the TB cleaner is empty.
Gumout recommends doing this every 12k.
Quote from Gumout's website on the TB cleaner.
The problem with cleaning the TB is that you can't just spray while the engine is running, because if the MAF isn't reading airflow the car will stall out trying to stay running.
So, the solution is to take the MAF off while the engine is off and spray for about 10 seconds while fluttering the throttle. Be sure to put a rag under the TB to catch run off.
Then you've gotta hook the MAF back up, start the car. Though, it takes a few turns of the crank to get the car started.
Let it run for a minute or two and repeat the process till the TB cleaner is empty.
Gumout recommends doing this every 12k.
Quote from Gumout's website on the TB cleaner.
The air intake and throttle body cleaner won't remove protective coatings from throttle valves and manifolds but will lubricate them and add special corrosion protection, while eliminating deposit build-up.
Last edited by bcollinstex; Jun 25, 2008 at 06:59 AM.
Disconnect the throttle linkage at both ends and see if the cable moves freely by pushing and pulling on it. That is a simple way to test it. If that's not the problem, then it's the throttle body itself. I suggest you detach the throttle body from the manifold, intake duct, and linkage, and clean it out on your workbench using intake cleaner and a soft bristle toothbrush.
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