New Lancer
Keep it. whether you want to or not, they went to a lot of trouble to get you a car. accept it and keep it stock and sell it in a year, that way it won'tbe a kick in the nuts to your parents.
yeh, i agree with most guys here, it is a free car, i got a 03 auto and love it but i pay out like 430 a month between payment and insurance so free is awsome!! you can get some performance outa it, check out greenpsychos auto lancer, supercharghed with good power.
I drive an auto and honestly you have to consider what you really want in your car. If you don't want to pay much for gas then a lancer is not a bad choice. If you stay N/A you can get enough power to zip around town and keep or even improve your milage. If you really want to be able to smoke anybody at the stop lights, then you need to look for another car, but remeber that you probably won't be able to get low insurance or good gas milage out of such a car. Like I said it really just depends on what your goals are. PM me if you want some tips or advice.
Here is the order I suggest:
1. Short Ram Intake or custom cold air
2. cat back exhaust
3. Bored out Throttle body
4. ported intake manifold
5. exhaust manifold
6. high flow cat
After that if you want more power you have to start modding the ECU. However this is a schedule for if you want to stay naturally aspirated. If you want to go turbo the order may be different, you'll have to ask a turbo guy about that. Anyway if you do the mods mentioned above you should be around 105 WHP and 105 ft/lbs torque if you take it to a dyno shop. Other guys might give you a different order, but basically you want to look at the engine and figure out what is causing the greatest restriction and replace that part, then go on to the next. Although you do need to be careful with the exhaust because if you go too big you can really lose torque.
1. Short Ram Intake or custom cold air
2. cat back exhaust
3. Bored out Throttle body
4. ported intake manifold
5. exhaust manifold
6. high flow cat
After that if you want more power you have to start modding the ECU. However this is a schedule for if you want to stay naturally aspirated. If you want to go turbo the order may be different, you'll have to ask a turbo guy about that. Anyway if you do the mods mentioned above you should be around 105 WHP and 105 ft/lbs torque if you take it to a dyno shop. Other guys might give you a different order, but basically you want to look at the engine and figure out what is causing the greatest restriction and replace that part, then go on to the next. Although you do need to be careful with the exhaust because if you go too big you can really lose torque.
just be carefull connecting maf to the new intake.
i put mine in and just bumped the maf sensor and now i am paying 530.00 for a new one to be put in (that su**s). and i voided my warranty but i dont care with in two years i will be done with college and my fiancee's father works at a ford dealership by my house and i will trade in for new car there or get a better car.
here is link to my 2005 lancer es with 17" white rims, nitto neogen 205/40-17 tires and weapon-r secret short ram intake.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/823675/2
here is link to my 2005 lancer es with 17" white rims, nitto neogen 205/40-17 tires and weapon-r secret short ram intake.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/823675/2
Yea, I was thinking of going with some sort of intake and a cat, but the stock intake is actually pretty good because if you think about it, its a ram intake becuase its right behind the grill...What you guys think?
Loose the stock intake. The snorkle does bring cooler air into the filter, but it is actually too small for the engine to breath properly. Also the stock air filter is quite restrictive. If you want to keep the snorkle get an RMR short ram intake. The biggest thing is getting a large high flow filter in there and removing some of the piping length so you can gain throttle response.
AEM doesn't make anything useful on an auto(they only make cold air kits for our car and the trany blocks the tubing). Injen is a good option although they use a smaller filter than others, but they do replace the stock corrugated elbow. RMR has a nice heat shield and it uses the stock snorkle to direct cold air to the filter, but it uses the stock corrugated elbow which will decrease air flow some. RRM has a nice funnel adapter unlike the flat plate the RMR kit uses, but it also uses the stock elbow and it doesn't have any kind of heat shield. I have the RRM kit, but I also replaced the stock elbow with a 45 degree 3" aluminum section and made a custom bracket to hold it all up. If yo do go with something that replaces the stock elbow be aware that you need the fitting for the vent hose from the vavle cover in order to pass emmissions testing. If you don't have testing then just use a breather filter on the valve cover fitting. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions.
So what should I go with? And I do have the power to custom build anything with metal so if it requires a little fabrication that wouldn't be a problem cause my friends garage is a metal shop.
I've had the Injen SRI on my car for over a year now and it still runs great. The only downside to it is that it places the filter in a place where you don't get great air flow, but you can cut a hole into the heat shield and put the stock snorkle into the hole to get good air flow to it, there's a how-to on how exactly to do it if you run a search. Hope this helps


