well i had a AEM cold air intake and it fit with some brain work, but i took the lower pipe off n stuck the filter on where the lower pipe goes... heres a pic.



the air goes where it has to, since then i've put a different filter on that works better, heres the only pic i have of that



but yeah... thats what i did, we all do different things, maybe u'll combine a few diff things n get something that works for u.

 

What you should do depends entirely on how much you want to spend, how much work you want to do yourself, and what you want to do to your car. If you have the money and can do the fabrication you could get the RMR kit and replace the stock elbow for some very good results. If you want bargain basement, get on ebay and buy a maf adapter for a mitsu then go to autozone or someplace get a k&n filter and start fabing up the rest. If you don't intend to do anything more than bolt-ons then the injen is the easiest way to go. You just have to read the information out there and decide what is best for you.

 

sorry guys, I disagree, and frankly I have the right cause I've done it all

I got my auto a year ago, went through the usual process of modding like these guys are saying: intake, headers, blah blah blah. Well, sure that was nice and it kept me busy (but my wallet empty). I really didn't start enjoying the lancer until: I got full suspension setup (bars all around and coilovers) and supercharger.

Everyone says "lancers are slow, blah blah blah" well, use what you go to your advantage: You have a car built on a simply awesome chassis, so build up the suspension and you'll be cooking. Secondly, you have an auto, and even with all the n/a stuff, you won't be that much faster (trust me, been there, done that) so save the dough and go forced induction (whether is supercharger or turbocharger).

Don't try to make the lancer into a highway dragster or something its not, beef up the suspension and go FI and it will be good

 

How much will a turbo cost me? I was looking at turbos for other cars and the prices didn't go below $2,000.

 

alot... a good one is around $4000-$5000

 

yeah, good turbo or supercharger kits are expensive, but they yield the biggest gains. think of it this way:

you can pick up a supercharger kit for $4200 and more than double your HP, or you could spend that much on bolt ons and a body kit and your not that much faster. see what I mean?

 

I got your point, but holy crap over $4,000 is a jesus load for me lol, im a broke colelge student.......

 

get a good job man

I'm a poor college kid too, but I got a decent paid internship over the summer, and voila i'm supercharged

 

I am a computer teacher at the local library, its decent pay but I gotta pay for everthing, and check this out im insured under my dads name and guess how much my insurance is? Its $5,000 a year then I gotta pay for gas, cell phone, internet service, clothes, bills, books, etc. All that and I still didn't mention my girlfriend. lol im looking for a second job....hopefully I can find one.....

 

you need to make a deal with her: she pays for your meals, you give her good loving. sounds fair to me LOL

Also, keep in mind companies like RIPP and RRM have layaway type deals setup where they will hold onto your dough for you.

 

yes'm, I was all sad about seeing what a lancer can do, especially an auto.....then I started reading greens threads about his SC and Im keeping mine and doing what he has done and racing autox....they can be fun cars...they just arnt drag strip material. plus, what car in the lancers class looks better?!?

 

Yes you are correct, you won't get much over 135 to 140 hp at the wheels going na on an auto without shelling out the big money. However, there are a few other things to consider, like if this is your daily driver going FI is probably not a good idea. The reason being is that first it takes a while to get it all tuned so you don't have problems with timing or a/f ratio and then you have to keep an eye on it and adjust it when the weather changes. Second unless you beef up the internals before you start, you are greatly accelerating the rate of decay of the engine. I would guess that most of the FI guys are getting about 1.5 to 2 years before they have to replace the pistons and rings. Now don't get me wrong, if you have the money and the time you can definitely get great increases with FI, but at the same time it is not for the guy who doen't know what he's doing or the guy who doesn't have gobs of money to spend.

 

I diagree about hte daily driver comment. My car is my daily driver and it works great at that. On highway, I've seen mileage the same if not better than what I was getting N/A.

Secondly, the top 2 FI kits (RIPP's sds and rrm's turbo) come pretuned for fuel and timing, so there is no downtime.

Finally, RIPP has a truly innovative approach cause they use a piggyback that learns. its hooked up to the mas and stock o2 sensors, so it adjusts itself for change in temp, change in pressure (as in elevation), change in humidity, etc etc. So there is no tuning involved at all, even in the winter time.

If you go custom, then yes, these are obstacles you will have to overcome.

 

OK, but there are a few problems with your statements. The RRM turbo combats lean conditions by using a vortech fuel management unit. It raises the fuel pressure way beyond the stock pressure so that you don't lean out under boost and this makes it hard to actually tune your A/F ratio so you aren't running super rich. Yes the RRM turbo kit works without too much tuning, but if you want the most power and gas milage out of it you have to spend alot of time tuning. As for the RIPP supercharger, does it have the same limitations as the RRM piggyback? Can it adjust for more unique mods like a bigger maf or a camshaft? The RRM piggyback can't adjust for those, but maybe version 2 can. As for your comment about gas milage with the supercharger, If you do NA mods you can get better gas milage than stock. Another thing to consider is that if you do go and double your power you will need to have the torque converter beefed up, just ask some of the turbo guys with autos. As far as I know we only have two options for this one is level ten, but you have to send them your torque converter and then you don't have a car for like two weeks while they rebuild it. The other is some shop in california, but I don't know what they offer for our cars. Anyway I guess what I'm trying to say is that you can get away with much less headache if you do smaller mods than if you start trying to get lots of gains and for a daily driver that might be a good thing.

 

Woah dude, you just went way off course. We were talking about tuning for different temps and elevations and now you are throwing camshafts into the mix.

and are you talking about stg1 or 2 rrm turbo? and what piggyback, the turbo or n/a one?

and I disagree with you on the torque converter. I've doubled my power and the tranny is fine. Vince (guru_del) was up to 230whp and his tranny was fine. sure about that you might want to look into an upgraded torque converter, but if you are above 230whp, your probably pushing enough boost that you'll need forged internals.